So, when the stewardess came around with dinner and offered moi a choice of beverage, I, armed to the teeth with my little Bouchards, requested white wine but put the plastic 187 away for future consumption in the sacrosanctity of my home. Last night it went down and, by golly, it was surprisingly good. The Louis Echenauer Colombard Chardonnay VdP des Côtes de Gascogne came unburdened by vintage, but I should have suspected that the 11.5% alcohol heralded finery. I had never heard of Colombard (Jane, you ignorant slut) and should have also suspected that using unknown grapes was a sign of character. Anyway, this had interesting adult aromas of overnight sweat and grapefruit rind. The texture was chewy, almost creamy, with a pleasant citric acidity that satisfied without bamboozling. I'll say, if this is industrial swill, then back up that airplane.