Kumeu River 2005 Chardonnay (Kumeu) Stone fruit with fine balancing acidity, restrained citrus, and a lot of sun and crystalline soil. Very, very impressive, with the structure to age and develop for a long while. (10/08)
Hamilton Russell 2007 Chardonnay (Hemel-en-Aarde Valley) Serious chardonnay, with ambition expressed in deeply soil-driven aromatics, good structure, a fine-grained patina of wood, and brooding fruit met in equal measure by aromatic porcini. Im very eager to see this one develop. (10/08)
Thomas-Labaille 2005 Sancerre Les Monts Damns Cuve Buster (Loire) Creamy and, dare I say it about a Sancerre?, thick, but in its mode theres a fair bit of balance. It tastes more spherical than of any particular mineral or growing thing, and for about an hour or so theres absolutely nothing about it that tastes anything like its appellation or its grape. Eventually, with a lot of air (and gentle movement towards room temperature), the barest hint of grass and gooseberry emerges, peeking out from some tiny room within the sphere. Given all this, plus a very long finish, either this needs an epic decant or, more reasonably, a good long lie-down in the cellar. (10/08)
Ascheri 2005 Langhe Arneis (Piedmont) The expected chalk soda texture is here, but what dominates is whitewashed minerality and semi-desiccated apple; its a striking expression of grape and place that simply wont be ignored. Delicious. (10/08)
Adria The Pilgrimage 2007 Bierzo Godello (Northwest Spain) Theres a layer of thickness here through which one must press, initially, and the effort leads towell, not very much. Some wan stone fruit in an otherwise watery soup, in which the alcohol is left to fill in the gaps. Not very good. (10/08)
Seven Sisters 2007 Chenin Blanc (Yolanda) It wont remind anyone of the Loire Valley, but for those who like the fruity, sun-drenched expression of chenin blanc without much trickery or drapery, this is a simple pleasure. Dont look for complexity, delicacy, or much length. You wont find them. But its as drinkable as a New World wine could ever want to be. (10/08)
Southern Right 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Walker Bay) Classic lemon-lime and grapefruit in a hue several shades darker than the norm, with a bit of sweat and toil lingering about the perimeter, and a lot of persistence on the finish. This clearly has designs on levels above its pay grade, but given that its sauvignon blanc I dont know if it can meet them; its quite a drink now, though. (10/08)
Seresin 2006 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Zippy and strappy sauvignon blanc right down the center of the varietys aromatic range, showing neither too much capsicum nor too much tropicality, and bringing with it a core of firm minerality (barely perceptible, but there nonetheless). If only most Marlborough sauvignon tasted like this. (10/08)
Teruzzi & Puthod 2003 Terre di tufi (Tuscany) Getting a bit tired already, not from age as much as the effort of supporting its brawny upper body on a rather spindly lower half. Ponderous despite a fair expression of metal-sheathed white apricot, and not for the long haul. (10/08)
Fritz Haag 2002 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 3 03 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Bizarre and difficult, as if perceived through cheesecloth. Could just be in a bad stage, or there could be a low-level taint I never picked up. (10/08)
Willi Schaefer 2004 Riesling 01 05 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Simple, exposed minerality with a delicate hint of sweetness and a bit of fadeaway. This is where it has been for a while now, so its probably premature to say its actually fading. (10/08)
Hamilton Russell 2007 Chardonnay (Hemel-en-Aarde Valley) Serious chardonnay, with ambition expressed in deeply soil-driven aromatics, good structure, a fine-grained patina of wood, and brooding fruit met in equal measure by aromatic porcini. Im very eager to see this one develop. (10/08)
Thomas-Labaille 2005 Sancerre Les Monts Damns Cuve Buster (Loire) Creamy and, dare I say it about a Sancerre?, thick, but in its mode theres a fair bit of balance. It tastes more spherical than of any particular mineral or growing thing, and for about an hour or so theres absolutely nothing about it that tastes anything like its appellation or its grape. Eventually, with a lot of air (and gentle movement towards room temperature), the barest hint of grass and gooseberry emerges, peeking out from some tiny room within the sphere. Given all this, plus a very long finish, either this needs an epic decant or, more reasonably, a good long lie-down in the cellar. (10/08)
Ascheri 2005 Langhe Arneis (Piedmont) The expected chalk soda texture is here, but what dominates is whitewashed minerality and semi-desiccated apple; its a striking expression of grape and place that simply wont be ignored. Delicious. (10/08)
Adria The Pilgrimage 2007 Bierzo Godello (Northwest Spain) Theres a layer of thickness here through which one must press, initially, and the effort leads towell, not very much. Some wan stone fruit in an otherwise watery soup, in which the alcohol is left to fill in the gaps. Not very good. (10/08)
Seven Sisters 2007 Chenin Blanc (Yolanda) It wont remind anyone of the Loire Valley, but for those who like the fruity, sun-drenched expression of chenin blanc without much trickery or drapery, this is a simple pleasure. Dont look for complexity, delicacy, or much length. You wont find them. But its as drinkable as a New World wine could ever want to be. (10/08)
Southern Right 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (Walker Bay) Classic lemon-lime and grapefruit in a hue several shades darker than the norm, with a bit of sweat and toil lingering about the perimeter, and a lot of persistence on the finish. This clearly has designs on levels above its pay grade, but given that its sauvignon blanc I dont know if it can meet them; its quite a drink now, though. (10/08)
Seresin 2006 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough) Zippy and strappy sauvignon blanc right down the center of the varietys aromatic range, showing neither too much capsicum nor too much tropicality, and bringing with it a core of firm minerality (barely perceptible, but there nonetheless). If only most Marlborough sauvignon tasted like this. (10/08)
Teruzzi & Puthod 2003 Terre di tufi (Tuscany) Getting a bit tired already, not from age as much as the effort of supporting its brawny upper body on a rather spindly lower half. Ponderous despite a fair expression of metal-sheathed white apricot, and not for the long haul. (10/08)
Fritz Haag 2002 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett 3 03 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Bizarre and difficult, as if perceived through cheesecloth. Could just be in a bad stage, or there could be a low-level taint I never picked up. (10/08)
Willi Schaefer 2004 Riesling 01 05 (Mosel-Saar-Ruwer) Simple, exposed minerality with a delicate hint of sweetness and a bit of fadeaway. This is where it has been for a while now, so its probably premature to say its actually fading. (10/08)