Chocolate milk

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Andrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Brunate 2006
If I had to drink chocolate milk made from Nebbiolo this would be my choice. In this one the oak-taint (for that it is - for some the tiniest hint of TCA completely obliterates all traces of the wine; for me the tiniest hint of oak obliterates all traces of wine) is less offensive than in most chocolate milk Nebbiolos. Here, I do get the occasional, slight whiff of something red berried and tart and resembling Nebbiolo as seen through a distorting prism. But mostly, the aromas are all about chocolate milk fuzziness.

The palate is soft, easy and lacks the energetic acid and tannin of young Nebbiolo; but neither is it bitterly oaky. It is, instead, oaky in a sweet and chocolaty way.

So for once, I can understand the enthusiasm that this chocolate milk Nebbiolo generates, but I am unable to partake in the enthusiasm. This isn't offensive (as long as I just drink it as a beverage, not as Barolo). But my main criticism is that the oak makes the grape disappear. This is a really well made, completely anonymous, completely a-geographical wine.

6046255511_3e6e17d583.jpg
 
originally posted by Otto Nieminen:
Chocolate milkAndrea Oberto Barolo Vigneto Brunate 2006
If I had to drink chocolate milk made from Nebbiolo this would be my choice. In this one the oak-taint (for that it is - for some the tiniest hint of TCA completely obliterates all traces of the wine; for me the tiniest hint of oak obliterates all traces of wine) is less offensive than in most chocolate milk Nebbiolos. Here, I do get the occasional, slight whiff of something red berried and tart and resembling Nebbiolo as seen through a distorting prism. But mostly, the aromas are all about chocolate milk fuzziness.

The palate is soft, easy and lacks the energetic acid and tannin of young Nebbiolo; but neither is it bitterly oaky. It is, instead, oaky in a sweet and chocolaty way.

So for once, I can understand the enthusiasm that this chocolate milk Nebbiolo generates, but I am unable to partake in the enthusiasm. This isn't offensive (as long as I just drink it as a beverage, not as Barolo). But my main criticism is that the oak makes the grape disappear. This is a really well made, completely anonymous, completely a-geographical wine.

6046255511_3e6e17d583.jpg

GACK!
 
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