Tempiers and fails

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
I attended a lovely tasting of some Tempier and some other Mourvèdre heavy wines in comparison. The Tempiers were all lovely; sadly the comparisons mostly wowed me in the wrong ways. I sadly haven't really had much experience with Mourvèdre before, but I ended up prefer the tangy, savoury style to other Southern wines. So how do Disorderlies view Tempier? Any other Mourvèdres I should try?

Niepoort Douro Redoma Branco 2007
Served blind. A rather neutral aroma with some oak and tropical fruit. Rich palate, dense and sweet and fairly low in acidity. Decent length. Not really an exciting wine.

Dehesa del Carrizal Cabernet Sauvignon 1992 - Spain, Castilla-La Mancha, Montes de Toledo
13,5% abv; served blind. It smells like an aged Bordeaux from a hot year (I guessed 1990): already some aged Cab aromas but with a surprising amount of sweet and dark fruit. No oak noticeable. Rich and sweet, lively still with healthy structure. Nice now; but it doesn't seem like there would be a hurry to drink this up. Very good.

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale Cabassaou 1993
13% abv; served blind. A beatiful wine, but very young still and it took a long time for the scent to open up. At first it was all about lactic aromas and I couldn't see much else than a hint of red berries underneath. But the palate was already outstanding: deep, rich, tangy, savoury and tasted rather like pomegranate. Lovely.

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Migoua 2005
14,5% abv. Slightly jammy and ever so slightly stinky nose. Quite lactic initially, but opened up to a dark toned aromas and lovely, tangy pomegranate smells. Dense, liquorous, deep and relatively voluptuous fruit compared to the '07s; not overly tannic or harshly acidic, but refreshing and well structured. Very nice, very young.

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Migoua 2007
14,5% abv. Once the initial lactic aromas clear off this smells enchanting: meat/game bird's blood, tangy dark fruit. Full bodied but wonderfully, palate-cleansingly tannic and refreshingly bright acidity despite all the fruit. Tangy and crunchy. Lovely.

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Classique 2007
14,5% abv. Really lovely dark, tangy Mourvèdre aromas, but not really any more open than the cuvées nor really a step down in quality either IMO. Instead it follows much the same path as the cuvées: at first lots of lactic aromas; then lots of pomegranate brightness and crunch. Palate-cleansing tannins; refreshing finish despite the copious fruit. Lovely.

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale La Tourtine 2007
14,5% abv. This was my favourite of the '07s. Pomegranate, tangy and mineral aromas. Rich but wonderfully tangy and savoury, meaty/slightly gamy but fresh and refreshing. Lovely.

Domaine Tempier Bandol Cuvée Spéciale Cabassaou 2007
14,5% abv. As so often happens, I preferred the more basic cuvées to this most special one. This had all that lovely meaty and pomegranate aromas but also seemed a bit too ripe and raisiny - which made it a denser wine but also, at least now when so young, masked the character I found in the "lesser" wines. Yet even this, with the ripeness and size becoming slightly raisin, managed to be refreshing on the finish. Possibly lovely in a few decades?

Ch“teau de Beaucastel Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Hommage à Jacques Perrin 2000
What a delightfully stinky scent this has! And how wonderfully voluptuous it is yet still manages to be lively and refreshing. Sadly a slight raisiny character slightly diminishes my enjoyment, but it is still a great wine.

Bodegas y Viñedos El Sequé Alicante El Sequé 2006 - Spain, Valencia, Alicante
Lactic with strawberry jam aromas and toffee aromas of new oak. The palate is sweet, simple and oaky. Fail.

Torbreck Mataro The Pict 2006 - Barossa Valley
Wow! But the wow is for all the wrong reasons: super-sweet, completely confected, lacking freshness, lacking savouriness, lacking anything that would make me want to take a second sip. Smells like tar and has a similar texture. Fail.

Teusner Mataro The Astral Series Moppa 2006 - Barossa Valley
Smelled just like the Torbreck Pict except this had a minty edge. Cough syrup and tar. Lacking elegance, freshness and drinkability. Fail.

Bodegas El Nido Jumilla Clio 2006 - Spain, Murcia, Jumilla
Smells of fancy French oak. I don't like fancy French oak. Or any sort of oak at all for that matter. Dark fruit. Massive, unrefreshing, undrinkable. Fiery, spirity finish. Nasty, brutish and unfortunately that's where the Hobbesian reference has to end. Colossal fail.
 
I am a big fan of Bandols and thus of mourvedre from Bandol. I think it does good things as a blending grape in CdP and of course as a primary blending grape in Beaucastel. I've never met a mourvedre that tasted like a mourvedre to me from Australia or even Spain (though in Spain my experience is too deficient to be meaningful). So I'm hardly surprised at your results. Although I like Tempiers a lot, there are others: Pradeaux, Bastide Blanche, for instance, that one can find without too much work in the US.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Yixin:
Pradeaux is terrific given the right amount of bottle age. Before that it's not always friendly.

True. And the right amount of bottle age, alas, is frequently 20 years. Still...

I was just going to ask for opinions on drinking window on Pradeaux. I've got a singleton bottle (storage unkown...) of 2001 that I was thinking about pairing with a leg of lamb from a lamb I just bought. Any differing opinions? Infanticide?

Cheers,

Kevin
 
Fatboy likes 'em young, but I've also seen him sneaking snacks of steel wool when he thought I wasn't watching.
 
I don't know the 01. But when Pradeaux don't have enough time on them, steel wool isn't a bad description. Unless someone with actual experience says different here, I'd wait.
 
Thanks for the notes Otto. Refreshing to see latest vintages from tempier showing well. The last young one I had was the Classique 2006 and it was a jammy mess. More spanish than Bandol but apparently they were not happy with their '06s at Tempier.

I believe Milan and Hauvette have some cuvees with a lot of mourvedre. I would check them out.

I'm a big Pradeaux fan as well as Lafran-Veyrolles, especially their Speciale cuvee almost all mourvedre.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
I don't know the 01. But when Pradeaux don't have enough time on them, steel wool isn't a bad description. Unless someone with actual experience says different here, I'd wait.

My experience with the '01 Bandols is that they are big wines that would require lots of time. Given that and Pradeaux's reputation for slow development, I wouldn't be in any hurry at all to open it.

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Yixin:
Pradeaux is terrific given the right amount of bottle age. Before that it's not always friendly.

True. And the right amount of bottle age, alas, is frequently 20 years. Still...

The '95 was superb about 2 weeks ago.
 
originally posted by Kevin Roberts:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Yixin:
Pradeaux is terrific given the right amount of bottle age. Before that it's not always friendly.

True. And the right amount of bottle age, alas, is frequently 20 years. Still...

I was just going to ask for opinions on drinking window on Pradeaux. I've got a singleton bottle (storage unkown...) of 2001 that I was thinking about pairing with a leg of lamb from a lamb I just bought. Any differing opinions? Infanticide?

Cheers,

Kevin

Keep. Hold. etc, etc.
 
The 1993 Pibarnon is excellent and just turning the corner. The style has apparently become more modern in recent years.
I also like Bastide Blanche and Gros Nore.
Domaine Sorin makes some pleasant Bandol, but it's not in the same league as others.
 
JP Gaussen, esp. the Longue Garde, is absolutely top flight.

Older pre Ravier Tempier, esp. individual cuvees.
 
The owners of the fantastic wine store in St Martin du Crau, who have many vintages of Tempier on the shelves, said that the style has become more user friendly since the brothers delegated winemaking duties to an enologist a few years ago. They're still good, but may have lost some of their rough edges and extensive ageing requirements.
 
Tempier began shifting a bit when Daniel Ravier took over the winemaking reins around 2000. I was told that he replaced most of the barrels and basically cleaned the place up considerably in an effort to make sure that the wines reflected what came out of the vineyard as opposed to the equipment in the winery.

While I have a lot of love and respect for the older Tempier wines (1993 remains my favorite acquirable vintage), what Ravier's done is amazing. There's more detail in the recent individual vineyard bottlings and the vintage differences seem more noticeable. I think they'll age just fine, but they don't require the 20+ years in the cellar to become civilized as the early releases do.

I was last in Bandol maybe ten years ago and while there was turned on to the JP Gaussen wines. I really like them but there's been no consistency in their US importers for as long as I've been aware of the wines. This works out, because when I do find them, they're invariably on closeout. Other producers I watch for include any of the Kermit Lynch crew (Gros Noré, La Tour de Bon, Terrebrune), Bastide Blanche, and the Leon Barral Faugères "Valinières" which is wonderful wine (and about 80% Mourvèdre) but inevitably priced up there with Bandol, so I usually wind up laying out the kale for the Bandol. So sue me.

I happen to like the Torbreck Pict just fine, but I would never ever no-how, no-way pour a young bottle of it alongside old world Mourvèdre unless I knew the predilections of the people at the table. And even then I probably wouldn't do it. There's too much of a disconnect between the old world and new world iterations of wine made of this variety and I've learned that there really is NO gray area whatsoever - it's a good example of an Ayn Rand "a or b", "black or white" decision in terms of palate preferences. The Pict will evolve into a fine bottle of new world Mourvèdre but it'll take awhile for the secondary sensory stuff to kick in. I'm patient, but as with all good Barossa wines, it takes awhile for everything packed into these warm-climate wines to resolve within itself.

Another great example of Australian Mourvèdre is Dean Hewitson's "Old Garden" vineayrd. Whereas the Torbreck wine comes from vines about 70-80 years old, the Hewitson comes from vines that are allegedly the oldest Mourvèdre vines in the world, at somewhere north of 160 years old. On release, it wasn't all that, but after 10 years in the cellar it acquired a lot of old world charm and enough gravitas for it to be worthy of respect from adherents of the "old world is the only world" school of winedrinking thought. I've heard that Dean Hewitson has considered playing music for his vines to help them mature, and I've also heard that Torbreck's Dave Powell has been hanging out with Daniel Ravier over the past couple of years. It will be interesting to see what effect any of this has on any of their wines.

Spain? Yeah, they make plenty of Mourvèdre there but I have yet to taste the bottling that illuminates why it's such a great place to grow it and sends me out to explore the depth and breadth of the Spanish Monastrell oeuvre. Maybe next year. After I complete work on my perpetual motion machine, solve the world hunger problem, and restore the music industry back to where it was before people discovered they could download music for free.

-Eden (make mine Mourvèdre)
 
I tend to agree with Eden - the changes at Tempier are for the better.

Perhaps the wines are a touch riper on par, but I've not had any that were offputting to me and I tend to be very averse to the least bit of cola / syrup / raisin notes or any sort of sweet finish. I've not had the 06's, though I have a couple each Migoa and Tourtine in 06... perhaps it warrants trying one. In any case, perhaps highs were a touch higher before but there were far, far, far more lows. Sort of like dinging Giacosa for modernity. Yes, they're quite modern compared to some neighbors in that they have a clean cellar, great viticulture and get good levels of ripeness. You might prefer more rustic, but Giacosa does not make many shitty bottles and has a tremendous number of highs. I feel similarly about Tempier and am a happy buyer to this day.

On a side note, I visited and met with Daniel in the summer of 09. The 08's in cask were excellent and he thought it was his best vintage of the last handful. He also was kind enough to open some older bottles for us - opened 4 bottles from the 80's and early 90's of which one was decent and one was revelatory but two were messes. Not trying to infer anything, just relating an anecdote...
 
I've been put off Leon Barral with a huge string of bad bottles. Had several 04's that were great then they fell off a cliff and the rest suffered from VA.

Tried some 05's and the bottles I got had >400 ppm SO2 (my labwork and repeatable). Sure, everyone fucks up, but bottling wine with that much sulfur, if only the few bottles I got, or any number, is a stellar fuck up. I can imagine it, but still bad.

Tried another (don't recall) by the glass in a restaurant and it was bretty as all get out.

I've been scared off, I know plenty of producers who produce only 50% bad bottles I can spend my hard earned $ on :)
 
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