Montreal?

originally posted by SFJoe:
I had an amazingly pointy-headed geek dinner at a restaurant in Montreal a few years ago. The folks there had gone to the Terroir-SF school of restaurant management, they were heavy duty. They spurned me for the first 2/3 of the meal and then started making me blind taste things. Can't remember the name.

Laloux?
 
originally posted by Joe Dressner:
In general, I worship at the feet of Martin Picard's Au Pied de Cochon in the Plateau.

Do they still bring little piglets around on a cart? We have a great family photo from 1967 of my brother feeding one a bottle of milk at APdC.
 
My favorite meal at Au Pied de Cochon was a huge plate of venison tartare, a well-aged off-menu venison terrine, and foie gras poutine...with some of the blood sausage from my neighbor's plate. I ate salads for five days afterwards, in penance, but it was worth it.

There's a "sundae" of random stuff that's not their best work (if I recall correctly: foie gras, truffles, eggs, avocados, some other stuff), but other than that, I've yet to be disappointed. I'm not sure it's still available, which is probably a blessing.

The big SAQ on Ste-Catherine's is an entirely decent store, if you don't want to play the customs game.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Love Franz Ferdinand! Makes me think, "Ah, it's good to be young and ugly." Though, Mark, Culture Club? Seriously?

Semi-seriously. There's a certain coyly playful sexuality, with not-so-subtle gay allusions, running through songs like "Michael" and even "The Dark of the Matinee." Comparing it to CC is a bit unfair, though, since nothing about this music grates on me like Boy George did. So, how about Pulp as the mother instead, Sharon? You more comfortable with Jarvis Cocker than Boy George?

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Joe Dressner:
I think they recently changed the rules.
Yeah, it used to be you could bring in 40 oz. Then they got practical and said two bottles is okay. If you tell them you have three bottles, they may wave you on, or they may want to do the paper work and collect a few dollars from you.
 
originally posted by MLipton:
Semi-seriously. There's a certain coyly playful sexuality, with not-so-subtle gay allusions, running through songs like "Michael" and even "The Dark of the Matinee." Comparing it to CC is a bit unfair, though, since nothing about this music grates on me like Boy George did. So, how about Pulp as the mother instead, Sharon? You more comfortable with Jarvis Cocker than Boy George?

Mark Lipton

Yes. Perfect now.
 
Has nobody above mentioned Club Chasse et Peche? I thought it was the best restaurant on my recent trip to Montreal. Great wine list, too.

Joe Beef was terrific also, but in a completely different, casual vein. Good wines there too.
 
Things have changed in Montreal since this thread was last visited. For example, now there are sidewalk-cleaning mechanical elephants roaming the streets:

photo_(20).jpg
I kid you not. It's a whole new world out there. In addition to the possibility of being suctioned off into oblivion, you should keep an eye out for a little spot not far from the waterfront called Bar Philemon. You might go there for an evening snack and a bottle of Prevost, or Ganevat, or what have you. In our case, it was the 2011 Ganevat Grusse en Billat at the ripe price of 78 Canadian dollars (which is around 72 US dollars at the time of this writing, for those of you keeping track). You won't find dinner here, exactly, but there is food. More on that in a moment.

Chelsea and I then walked a few blocks to Chez L'Épicier for dinner. The food and the service were well-meaning but perhaps a bit formal for the setting, which purports to be a pantry where jams and other preserved goods are sold. Chicken wire is densely wrapped around standard lightbulbs to create chandeliers. It's a cute place, I suppose, but shouldn't be so serious. Although the food was executed quite well, I must admit. A lobster bisque went down fine with 2011 Pinon Sec and 54-degree (that's Celsius) duck breast likewise did well with Phillippe Bornard's L'Aide Memoire Pinot from Arbois.

The Radiohead song Packt Like Sardines in a Crushed Tin Box most closely approximates the scene at Schwartz's when we tried to have lunch there. Our options were to wait in the rain for half an hour or go to the take-out side of the joint. We opted for the latter. The smoked meat sandwich (if you've never been, the rule is that you must order the smoked meat sandwich) was what I expected, which is to say that if you've been to a good Jewish deli anywhere then you've had this before; I don't see what the fuss is all about. If anything, it was a bit too peppery and fat-laced for my liking. A miniature version of the smoked meat sandwich was on the snack menu at Bar Philemon, and if I am being honest, it was much better. The pickles (sold separately) at Schwartz's were excellent, though.

While some things change, others stay the same. Joe Beef was not open while we were in town, but if you are in Montreal a pilgrimage to Au Pied de Cochon is mandatory. The stuffed pied de cochon with foie gras will feed two in the most glorious way possible. There is a good reason the restaurant takes its name from this dish. But do not skip the bison temakii prior to your main course - it is a bison tartare with a dense, slightly crispy rice wrapped in dried seaweed. Just insane flavor and texture. But not delicate. Nothing about the place is delicate. So don't come looking for that. But do come, for whatever other reason suits.

Finally, this post would be incomplete if I did not weigh in on the famous bagel thread. We tried both the Fairmount and the St. Viateur bagels, fresh from the source. St. Viateur produced a bagel that was both less dry and more airy, and was our consensus favorite. Sesame, of course.
 
IMHO, Schwartz's is about the smoked meat, and it's very very good. And if the weather's nice, take-out is the way to go. We were perfectly happy devouring our warm sandwich on a local park bench.

We had a tasty and entertaining lunch at l'Arrivage in the Esperon building down by the piers last year. Light but vividly flavored food, view of the port, a flyby from a Canadian air force jet, and an eccentric but hilarious comedic waiter.
 
originally posted by Michael Lewis:
originally posted by kirk wallace:
And how fares Salle a Manger?

We didn't have a chance to find out. It was a quick 48 hours. Would you recommend it?

Yes. I haven't been there in over a year but recent visits by disorderly travelers have confirmed the awesomeness.

Also: Lawrence, Hotel Herman, and Vin Papillon.

Me, I grew up on grandma's French-Canadian cooking, so I *get* APC and celebrate its existence and Picard's fame. But I almost never want to eat there. It's just... un peu de trop.
 
originally posted by Michael Lewis:
Time for an UpdateThings have changed in Montreal since this thread was last visited. For example, now there are sidewalk-cleaning mechanical elephants roaming the streets:

photo_(20).jpg

It looks like a ball hockey version of the Zamboni.

Thanks for resurrecting the bagel thread.
That could be festive favorite material.
 
So, I have a round-trip plane ticket for Montreal in mid-April. This represents the vestigial remains of a full-flesh trip I had planned with my sister and 13-year-old nephew. Today I learned that the sister/nephew contingent cannot come.

Cancellations of lodging and so forth made, I muse. I have a ticket. I could go solo.

Any recent Montreal enthusiasms? Any Montreal tips or tricks?

It's a six-day trip, if it is one, and I am considering going up to Québec for one or two days if I do go.

I'd love to hear thoughts.
 
Salle à mange. (It means dining room, i'm told.) always awesome. I guess it's been 2 yeas since my last visit, but I can't see it declining. Overnoy & Ganevat in both colors. Maybe even the 3d. But you need a friend or two to join, b:c the portions are huge.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
SoloSo, I have a round-trip plane ticket for Montreal in mid-April. This represents the vestigial remains of a full-flesh trip I had planned with my sister and 13-year-old nephew. Today I learned that the sister/nephew contingent cannot come.

Cancellations of lodging and so forth made, I muse. I have a ticket. I could go solo.

Any recent Montreal enthusiasms? Any Montreal tips or tricks?

It's a six-day trip, if it is one, and I am considering going up to Québec for one or two days if I do go.

I'd love to hear thoughts.

Don't drive around, the city's a mess! They are repairing/replacing water main lines and the potholes/obstacles are the worst I remember.
 
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