Christian Miller (CMM)
Christian Miller
As in unpronounceable Caucasians, not Bulldogs. Disturbed by the lack of response to Jeff's Qvevri post, I dug up some notes from a tasting of Georgian wines this summer, in hopes of provoking some commentary or sharing on the subject. It was hosted by Chris Terrell and Vintage Berkeley. From the little I have learned to date, the Georgian wine industry is a fascinating intersection of methods, history, economics, unusual grapes and culture. Unfortunately, the wines were only from three grapes (Rkatsiteli, Mtsvane and Saperavi), but otherwise represented an interesting cross-section of types and producers.
Rkatsiteli, Georgia Khaketi Tsinandali 2007, Mildiani - subdued aroma like young semillon or PG; interesting and curious flavor, fresh slightly leafy, slightly phenolic with an almond tone, quite long, dry, decent acidity. 80% Rkatsiteli, 20% Mtsvane grape, from a large private family vineyard. $11
Rkatsiteli Khaketi Tsinandali 2007, Vinoterra - a bit more aroma and flavor, a bit riper with a distinctive pear-cucumber-juicy fruit tone; rounder and fruitier but still decent acid, dry but soft finish. Again, 20% Mtsvane. $17
Rkatsiteli Khaketi Alezani valley 2008, Pheasant's Tears - Light golden-copper color; mild but intriguing nose with honey, nutty, peachy tones; similar flavor with more oomph, full bodied, slightly phenolic, slightly oxidized, brothy-savory tone with walnut complexities, unusual but good length and complexity. From eastern part of Khaketi, unfiltered, organic viticulture, traditional vinification - crushed and fermented/aged on skins in Qvevri (clay amphora) for 9 months. 100% Rkatsiteli. $20
Saperavi, Khaketi Teliani Valley 2007 - plum berry fruit with mild pepper, slightly weedy Refosco-like dark fruit, woodsy tone, good acid, lively, perhaps a little short. A public company, fairly large production. $15
Saperavi, Kvareli Reserve 2005, Mildiani - Ripe zin-like fruit, slightly raisiny, smooth and plump and slightly smoky with medium length, slight oxidation, soft tannins.
Saperavi, Kakheti "Black Wine" 2008, Pheasant's Tears - slight volatility with a shoe polish tone but also fine dark berry-leafy fruit somewhere between Cab Franc and Dolcetto; slightly tart, dolcetto-cinsault like flavor, rather short. Like all the Pheasant Tear wines, fermented in amphora. $29
Saperavi, Kakheti Reserve 2003, Vinoterra - ripe, plum-current plus mature moderate oak, woodsy tone; moderate dry tannin, fine grained, medium body, good length. A winery with European investment and international ambitions.
Saperavi, Kindmarauli 2005, Mildiani - sweet ripe raisin-plum-black fruit. Similar middle, soft, smooth, good length, sound although not very interesting. This is supposedly the style of wine that used to be preferred in the old Soviet days, although less flawed than many were. Is it irony that this is a style that is proving commercially successful in our decadent capitalist chain distribution system right now? Fermentation stopped with some RS, then filtered for stability. Actually quite pleasant with a Georgian walnut-garlic-eggplant puree. $12
Rkatsiteli, Georgia Khaketi Tsinandali 2007, Mildiani - subdued aroma like young semillon or PG; interesting and curious flavor, fresh slightly leafy, slightly phenolic with an almond tone, quite long, dry, decent acidity. 80% Rkatsiteli, 20% Mtsvane grape, from a large private family vineyard. $11
Rkatsiteli Khaketi Tsinandali 2007, Vinoterra - a bit more aroma and flavor, a bit riper with a distinctive pear-cucumber-juicy fruit tone; rounder and fruitier but still decent acid, dry but soft finish. Again, 20% Mtsvane. $17
Rkatsiteli Khaketi Alezani valley 2008, Pheasant's Tears - Light golden-copper color; mild but intriguing nose with honey, nutty, peachy tones; similar flavor with more oomph, full bodied, slightly phenolic, slightly oxidized, brothy-savory tone with walnut complexities, unusual but good length and complexity. From eastern part of Khaketi, unfiltered, organic viticulture, traditional vinification - crushed and fermented/aged on skins in Qvevri (clay amphora) for 9 months. 100% Rkatsiteli. $20
Saperavi, Khaketi Teliani Valley 2007 - plum berry fruit with mild pepper, slightly weedy Refosco-like dark fruit, woodsy tone, good acid, lively, perhaps a little short. A public company, fairly large production. $15
Saperavi, Kvareli Reserve 2005, Mildiani - Ripe zin-like fruit, slightly raisiny, smooth and plump and slightly smoky with medium length, slight oxidation, soft tannins.
Saperavi, Kakheti "Black Wine" 2008, Pheasant's Tears - slight volatility with a shoe polish tone but also fine dark berry-leafy fruit somewhere between Cab Franc and Dolcetto; slightly tart, dolcetto-cinsault like flavor, rather short. Like all the Pheasant Tear wines, fermented in amphora. $29
Saperavi, Kakheti Reserve 2003, Vinoterra - ripe, plum-current plus mature moderate oak, woodsy tone; moderate dry tannin, fine grained, medium body, good length. A winery with European investment and international ambitions.
Saperavi, Kindmarauli 2005, Mildiani - sweet ripe raisin-plum-black fruit. Similar middle, soft, smooth, good length, sound although not very interesting. This is supposedly the style of wine that used to be preferred in the old Soviet days, although less flawed than many were. Is it irony that this is a style that is proving commercially successful in our decadent capitalist chain distribution system right now? Fermentation stopped with some RS, then filtered for stability. Actually quite pleasant with a Georgian walnut-garlic-eggplant puree. $12