something about the fall (the crisp air, the brittle crackle of the leaves, the smell of smoke in the air) presses firmly on the vulnerable portion of my brain that causes me to pant for St.-Joseph.
Naturally, I’m talking about the reds. St.-Joseph whites, too, are rich enough to seem more of a fall treat than a summer quencher, but the reds, made entirely of the syrah grape, are what I crave. In many ways, the aromas and flavors of the best of these wines seem to harmonize with the essences of autumn.
Dark fruits and flowers, especially violets, are characteristic of syrahs from the northern Rhône. Nothing autumnlike there, I know, but that’s only the beginning. Beyond that, the aromas and flavors of good St.-Josephs are distinctively savory, like black olives, black pepper, wild herbs, smoked meats and the classic bacon fat. These are mouthwatering wines that go beautifully with grilled meats like lamb and venison, and, I submit, with fall.
We all were captivated by the wines. The high level of quality was undeniable, even with difficult and contradictory vintages like cool and rainy 2008 and hot and dry 2009. The 2007 vintage, which is still available in stores, was in general easier and more balanced. Yet many of the wines in our tasting had a significant obstacle to overcome: a high level of oak flavoring.
