TN: Autumn at The Good Fork (Oct 20, 2011)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jason, Zach, Jay, Jeff

It's a cool autumn evening. All the "sensible folks" are eating indoors. But we like the backyard so we've got it all to ourselves. We're sitting at the big table and enjoying the quiet, the privacy, the Buddha, the food, the company, and the wine.

With various complicated salads:

C. Foucher 2009 Vin de France "Trio" - inspired by the lovely menu pineau varietal that we drank at Grand Sichuan last month, Jay brings this wine: one third menu pineau, one third sauvignon blanc, and one third, um, er, well, actually, there are only two grapes... perhaps M. Foucher had something else planned when he printed the labels?; anyway, this is a fun drink with lots of acid zing and not too much grassy-green stuff

Bregeon 2004 Muscadet "Gorges" - a huge wine (especially following the Trio), broad-shouldered, firm acid spine, still that lemony Muscadet flavor but w-i-d-e like orange; this is excellent

Farnum Hill 2009 Kingston Black Reserve Cider - so aromatic! the Kingston Black (sez the label) is one of the only cider apples that has enough of everything -- flavor, sugar, tannin -- to ferment on its own; this is wildly fragrant and, indeed, tannic; wisps of lemon, mint, sour currants; worth seeking out

Jean-Yves Peron 2009 Vin de France "Cotillon des dames" - orange wine; I don't think this is very interesting though a couple people say it improves with time in the glass; "crushed velvet texture":Jay

With savory appetizer plates:

Felsina 1988 Chianti Classico Riserva "Berardenga Rancia" - corked

Porter Creek 2001 Syrah "Timbervine Ranch" - really robust and earthy nose, which makes Jason fear for a clumsy thunderous palate; but it's not! instead it is a mid-weight, showing some zip and dash and pleasing 'old pork' (but not 'old bacon') flavors

Dard et Ribo 2009 Crozes-Hermitage "Les Rouges Des Baties" - pretty nose but the palate is clipped; hm, I don't seem to have gone back to it later, oh well

With the main courses:

Gonon 2006 St-Joseph (not the VV) - painfully young, luscious for about 10 minutes then starts shutting down; do not disturb for another 5 years

Dom. de Gachon 1998 St-Joseph - corked

Trimbach 1999 Riesling "Cuvee Frederic Emile" - by itself, OMG; with the pork schnitzel, mmmm...

Leitz 2001 Rudesheimer Klosterlay Riesling - I was told this is AP 017 02 but I can't confirm that on the internet; anyway, sharp acids, light and limey, nearly as lovely as the Freddy in it's own way

With the desserts:

Tranquility.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Jean-Yves Peron 2009 Vin de France "Cotillon des dames" - orange wine; I don't think this is very interesting though a couple people say it improves with time in the glass; "crushed velvet texture":Jay

Has anyone been drinking the 2009 Mondeuse cuvees from Peron? I was surprised to see them in this country and bought a couple of each from CSW. Nothing too tremendous or electric in comparison to my memory of previous vintages. But might just be a stage for the big 2009s. Still, not bad drinking at all.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Farnum Hill 2009 Kingston Black Reserve Cider - so aromatic! the Kingston Black (sez the label) is one of the only cider apples that has enough of everything -- flavor, sugar, tannin -- to ferment on its own; this is wildly fragrant and, indeed, tannic; wisps of lemon, mint, sour currants; worth seeking out

I am very curious to try this.
 
The cider was dynamite. So was the Freddy. I really liked the "Trio" and the Bregeon and the Leitz, an old standby for me.

Good night, where the whites far outshone the reds, though the Porter Creek was in a nice place and the Gonon showed much promise. The Gachon was perplexing (and disappointing) for me, as I doubled-decanted it at home and didn't detect TCA, but there was absolutely no question that it was corked to the gills once we got to it, some three-plus hours later. Sigh.
 
Like Sharon, I'd be curious to try it as well. I went to a party where there was a wide swath of ciders present (both domestic and foreign). The Basque and French ones probably got the most oohs and ahhs, but all the ones from Farnum Hill (there were four; but not the Kingston Black) were definitely the best of the domestic ciders.
 
Speaking of Farnum Hill I'm looking forward to trying one of their ciders tonight. Apparently they make a few small batches when they don't have enough apples to merit their own labels. I'm opening an Ashmead's Kernel.

I've also tried some of their lower end bottlings since the Kingston Black experience and, while good, they are not at the same level. Though I suppose one wouldn't expect them to be. Nice finish but they were missing that heavenly nose.
 
Oh, this reminds me to report back. I had that '09 Kingston Black, and it was memorable. I concur with Jeff's description: "wildly fragrant."

It had so much for it. And its texture was all the more interesting in that it was a still cider.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
Not a bad bottle/person ratio
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
Jean-Yves Peron 2009 Vin de France "Cotillon des dames" - orange wine; I don't think this is very interesting though a couple people say it improves with time in the glass; "crushed velvet texture":Jay

Has anyone been drinking the 2009 Mondeuse cuvees from Peron? I was surprised to see them in this country and bought a couple of each from CSW. Nothing too tremendous or electric in comparison to my memory of previous vintages. But might just be a stage for the big 2009s. Still, not bad drinking at all.

I think his Mondeuses need time. His 09 is good, balanced but a little forward right now (tried it at Ten Bells) and I'm planning to leave mine resting in the cellar for 6-8 years.
His 2004 (1st vintage) and 2005 Cote Pelee are just beautiful and very Cote-Rotie like (with much more elegance).
I think I have one '05 Pelee left and would be happy to open it when you're in town.
His Cotillon des Dames is also, in my opinion, a great wine but this is just me.
 
originally posted by Arno Tronche:

I think his Mondeuses need time. His 09 is good, balanced but a little forward right now (tried it at Ten Bells) and I'm planning to leave mine resting in the cellar for 6-8 years.
His 2004 (1st vintage) and 2005 Cote Pelee are just beautiful and very Cote-Rotie like (with much more elegance).
I think I have one '05 Pelee left and would be happy to open it when you're in town.
His Cotillon des Dames is also, in my opinion, a great wine but this is just me.

Aha, nice that you're holding the earlier vintages. I remember drinking them in France when they were first on the La Cremerie et al circuit and being very impressed (which didn't often happen on that circuit).

I'm opening the 09 Cote Pelee and Champs Levat next week for Thanksgiving. I think they will work well for my family.

What town are you in again?
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Arno Tronche:

I think his Mondeuses need time. His 09 is good, balanced but a little forward right now (tried it at Ten Bells) and I'm planning to leave mine resting in the cellar for 6-8 years.
His 2004 (1st vintage) and 2005 Cote Pelee are just beautiful and very Cote-Rotie like (with much more elegance).
I think I have one '05 Pelee left and would be happy to open it when you're in town.
His Cotillon des Dames is also, in my opinion, a great wine but this is just me.

Aha, nice that you're holding the earlier vintages. I remember drinking them in France when they were first on the La Cremerie et al circuit and being very impressed (which didn't often happen on that circuit).

I'm opening the 09 Cote Pelee and Champs Levat next week for Thanksgiving. I think they will work well for my family.

What town are you in again?

NYC !

Let me know how's the Pelat turns out as I'm less familiar with this cuvee than the Pelee and have not tried it yet (the '09).
 
originally posted by Arno Tronche:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
What town are you in again?

NYC !

Let me know how's the Pelat turns out as I'm less familiar with this cuvee than the Pelee and have not tried it yet (the '09).

I live in NYC as well! (And now I remember you posting about moving to town this past summer, or something like that).

I don't get out to as many jeebi as other folks around here, but we should try to organize something. Not sure what kind of theme would branch out from the 05 Cote Pelee (I certainly don't have any mondeuse older than 09), but that never stopped anyone before.

Thus far, the 09 Levat is just fine in my opinion. Naturally it's simpler and less interesting than the Pelee, but it's good practice to open both at the same time and gleefully drink the Levat while the Pelee gets some air.
 
originally posted by Rahsaan:
originally posted by Arno Tronche:
originally posted by Rahsaan:
What town are you in again?

NYC !

Let me know how's the Pelat turns out as I'm less familiar with this cuvee than the Pelee and have not tried it yet (the '09).

I live in NYC as well! (And now I remember you posting about moving to town this past summer, or something like that).

I don't get out to as many jeebi as other folks around here, but we should try to organize something. Not sure what kind of theme would branch out from the 05 Cote Pelee (I certainly don't have any mondeuse older than 09), but that never stopped anyone before.

Thus far, the 09 Levat is just fine in my opinion. Naturally it's simpler and less interesting than the Pelee, but it's good practice to open both at the same time and gleefully drink the Levat while the Pelee gets some air.

Yes we should definitely try to do something. After all, all excuses are good to drink some Perron and other good stuff !
 
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