Oswaldo Costa
Oswaldo Costa
Swiss enologist Hubert Weber took over in 1995. Starting in the late 90s, alcohol levels have been rising in Weinert wines, despite the winery’s traditionalist reputation. Perhaps the result of global warming, or from keeping up with the Catenas, maybe both. Some time in the early 2000s, the Rubicon into overripe terrain appears to have been crossed, but there's no capital for NFO.
In the Weinert hierarchy, the Gran Vino is second only to the Estrella (produced in top years) and, compared to the varietals, consistently sports an extra half degree of alcohol, regardless of vintage (if labels are to be believed). All vintages of the Gran Vino since 1999 have been 40% malbec, 40% cabernet sauvignon, and 20% merlot. Vines are ungrafted and planted on sandy soils; the malbec vines are an impressive 60 to 110 years old; the others, between 15 and 45 years old. Grapes are hand-picked, yeasts are “selected,” wines are vinified in concrete and aged for 3 to 5 years in used French oak casks (2000 to 6000 liters). No fining or cold stabilization, some filtration. Statistics on the growing ripeness of picking are unavailable.
2000 Cavas de Weinert Gran Vino Lujan de Cujo 14.0%
Plums, barnyard, leather, tar, dishrag, poop and oak. Decent acidity and appealing tannins. Very Bordelais, and easy to drink. Pleasurable, though I prefer the straight 2000 Malbec.
2002 Cavas de Weinert Gran Vino Lujan de Cujo 14.5%
Jammy, to the point of blocking any aroma other than generic black fruits. Adequate acidity, possibly added, tastes distinct. But maybe it’s the jamminess that makes all acidity taste like it doesn’t quite belong. In short, thumbs down.
The first tasted like old-fashioned Argentine wine, inspired by Bordeaux; the second like generic modern Argentine wine, inspired by Coca Cola. Over ripeness makes varieties converge: a 14.5% pinot tastes like a 14.5% malbec, and everything tastes like Mammonade.
In the Weinert hierarchy, the Gran Vino is second only to the Estrella (produced in top years) and, compared to the varietals, consistently sports an extra half degree of alcohol, regardless of vintage (if labels are to be believed). All vintages of the Gran Vino since 1999 have been 40% malbec, 40% cabernet sauvignon, and 20% merlot. Vines are ungrafted and planted on sandy soils; the malbec vines are an impressive 60 to 110 years old; the others, between 15 and 45 years old. Grapes are hand-picked, yeasts are “selected,” wines are vinified in concrete and aged for 3 to 5 years in used French oak casks (2000 to 6000 liters). No fining or cold stabilization, some filtration. Statistics on the growing ripeness of picking are unavailable.
2000 Cavas de Weinert Gran Vino Lujan de Cujo 14.0%
Plums, barnyard, leather, tar, dishrag, poop and oak. Decent acidity and appealing tannins. Very Bordelais, and easy to drink. Pleasurable, though I prefer the straight 2000 Malbec.
2002 Cavas de Weinert Gran Vino Lujan de Cujo 14.5%
Jammy, to the point of blocking any aroma other than generic black fruits. Adequate acidity, possibly added, tastes distinct. But maybe it’s the jamminess that makes all acidity taste like it doesn’t quite belong. In short, thumbs down.
The first tasted like old-fashioned Argentine wine, inspired by Bordeaux; the second like generic modern Argentine wine, inspired by Coca Cola. Over ripeness makes varieties converge: a 14.5% pinot tastes like a 14.5% malbec, and everything tastes like Mammonade.
