Slovene acacia and cherry

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Klinec Malvazia 2007 - Slovenia, Primorje, Goriska Brda, Medana; label
13,5% abv. Aged in acacia barrels for one year. Orange colour; a skin contact white. Smells rather woody and peppery and somehow sharp, but it is still a fascinating aroma, quite unlike anything else I have had. There is also a wonderful, grapey aroma slightly reminiscent of Muscat except much more subtle and more savoury. Dry, powerful, masculine, moderately tannic by orange wine standards. Drying finish. I find this fascinating and don't find the acacia ageing annoying - but I am also aware that if all wines were aged in acacia, I would not be so forgiving of this wood either!

Klinec Jakot 2007 - Slovenia, Primorje, Goriska Brda, Medana; label
13,5% abv, from Tokaj Furlanski or whatever it is legally called today. An orange wine aged one year in acacia. Though different enough from the Malvazija in its fruit aromas - this one being less grapey in its aromas but more floral - this is still marked by a woody note presumably from ageing in acacia. Like the Malvazija, this is of moderate tannin as far as orange wines go, but seems to have higher acidity, so it seems to me more austere. But this is still a lovely drink. Having now had two acacia-aged wines side by side, I do wonder if my interest would survive if more were aged in it instead of oak.

Klinec Quela 2006 - Slovenia, Primorje, Goriska Brda, Medana; label
60% Merlot, 30% Cab Sauv, 10% Cab Franc. A Bordeaux-blend that doesn't smell at all of oak (how nice for a change!) - because it is aged instead for one year in cherry barrels. This has wonderfully vivid and pure aromas of bright red fruit and slight earthiness and leafiness. I am tempted to say it has concentrated cherry aromas, but that would be facetious. Though 13,5% abv, there is no excess ripeness or sweetness of fruit; instead this has wonderful precision, wonderful grip and wonderful freshness. I have no idea how new the cherry wood is, but if cherry barrels let the grapes shine with such purity and without any obviously woody aromas, perhaps the Bordelais should start using such barrels, too!
 
I usually find Acacia wood aromas to have a certain white flower aspect to them. And the wood tannins to be less hard.

Cherry barrels are often used for Tuscan Vin Santo, if I understand correctly. The tighter grain allows for less evaporation.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
I usually find Acacia wood aromas to have a certain white flower aspect to them. And the wood tannins to be less hard.

Cherry barrels are often used for Tuscan Vin Santo, if I understand correctly. The tighter grain allows for less evaporation.

I mostly see in Tuscany Oak barrels for Vin Santo, with just some barrels of Chestnut and Cherry; for sure the oldest barrels around are Chestnut, so maybe the more 'traditional.' Does Cherry have a tighter grain than chestnut?

originally posted by Otto Nieminen:
Slovene acacia and cherryKlinec Malvazia 2007 - Slovenia, Primorje, Goriska Brda, Medana; label
13,5% abv. Aged in acacia barrels for one year. Orange colour; a skin contact white. Smells rather woody and peppery and somehow sharp, but it is still a fascinating aroma, quite unlike anything else I have had. There is also a wonderful, grapey aroma slightly reminiscent of Muscat except much more subtle and more savoury.

I bring this into the States and I always find the nose to have an interesting bitter note, but not the decisive bitterness of bark but more of the bitterness of orange skin (to be clichè); add wines Muscat-like 'grapey aroma' together with the lift of the Acacia that reminds me of juniper berry, and I'm reminded of Platonic Negroni -- not that I could define that.
 
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