Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
It's the Thanksgiving holiday weekend and, like any NYer with any sense, I am avoiding all the shopping districts. In fact, I've mostly been home, either cooking or taking care of chores around the house. So, it was with no particular expectations that I wandered over to the cellar to receive a parcel of bottles from Jay.
When I arrived, however, there was a party in progress. It turns out that it is Alex's birthday tomorrow -- in fact, occurring at that very moment where he was born -- so Sasha and Jay have reached deep into their goodie bags. When SFJoe, Sharon Bowman, and Don Rice later show up, the room is rockin':
Dom. de Chevalier 1982 Graves - The Dotster needs a dose of Bordeaux reality after this recent trip to DisneyWorld Burgundy and this is truly it: an exquisite bottle of wine, silky, vivid, earthy; I keep waiting for something to go off the rails but the tobacco does not overwhelm, the cab leafiness stays in check, the ripeness is noticeable but there is nothing hot or cooked or stewed here. It's just damned gorgeous.
Trimbach 2005 Riesling "Cuvee Frederic Emile" - Comparisons to the 2001 abound (an in-joke... Jay and Alex, without prior consultation, both observed how much better this is than the older wine); acidity is strong but well-behaved; very pretty wine.
Drouhin 2007 Vosne-Romanee 1er "Les Petits Monts" - Sasha rigs up a cradle to keep the sediment down towards the bottom. This is young but showing great class; a classic mix of red berries and earth and a hint of face-powder frangipani; so much yet to come
Beronia 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva - A little bottle funk blows off and this is beautiful Rioja: more minerally than earthy, clenched little berries but gets bigger in the finish; still youthful
Rollin 1993 Pernand-Vergelesses - Conversation was on the 1993s so here is the last of these little gems. This is a "good" one, as opposed to the "great" or the "so-so" ones. It has no special provenance but it has all the charms that age can bring a wine.
Morot 1993 Beaunes-Bressandes 1er - Presented blind, I think this was the wine of which SFJoe observed, "A remarkable combination of age and tannins," which comment led to his guessing the vintage correctly. Nicely aged, it presents a dark-fruited palate, maybe a tad too juicy or slightly soured? Lovely, anyway.
M. Esmonin 1987 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er "Clos St. Jacques" - Jay: "beautiful and a delight"
G. Mascarello 2005 Barolo "Monprivato" - Conversation was on barolo so here is one: very young, obviously, but already drinking well; river stones and cranberry and enough weighty mouthfeel to hint at good things to come.
When I arrived, however, there was a party in progress. It turns out that it is Alex's birthday tomorrow -- in fact, occurring at that very moment where he was born -- so Sasha and Jay have reached deep into their goodie bags. When SFJoe, Sharon Bowman, and Don Rice later show up, the room is rockin':
Dom. de Chevalier 1982 Graves - The Dotster needs a dose of Bordeaux reality after this recent trip to DisneyWorld Burgundy and this is truly it: an exquisite bottle of wine, silky, vivid, earthy; I keep waiting for something to go off the rails but the tobacco does not overwhelm, the cab leafiness stays in check, the ripeness is noticeable but there is nothing hot or cooked or stewed here. It's just damned gorgeous.
Trimbach 2005 Riesling "Cuvee Frederic Emile" - Comparisons to the 2001 abound (an in-joke... Jay and Alex, without prior consultation, both observed how much better this is than the older wine); acidity is strong but well-behaved; very pretty wine.
Drouhin 2007 Vosne-Romanee 1er "Les Petits Monts" - Sasha rigs up a cradle to keep the sediment down towards the bottom. This is young but showing great class; a classic mix of red berries and earth and a hint of face-powder frangipani; so much yet to come
Beronia 1981 Rioja Gran Reserva - A little bottle funk blows off and this is beautiful Rioja: more minerally than earthy, clenched little berries but gets bigger in the finish; still youthful
Rollin 1993 Pernand-Vergelesses - Conversation was on the 1993s so here is the last of these little gems. This is a "good" one, as opposed to the "great" or the "so-so" ones. It has no special provenance but it has all the charms that age can bring a wine.
Morot 1993 Beaunes-Bressandes 1er - Presented blind, I think this was the wine of which SFJoe observed, "A remarkable combination of age and tannins," which comment led to his guessing the vintage correctly. Nicely aged, it presents a dark-fruited palate, maybe a tad too juicy or slightly soured? Lovely, anyway.
M. Esmonin 1987 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er "Clos St. Jacques" - Jay: "beautiful and a delight"
G. Mascarello 2005 Barolo "Monprivato" - Conversation was on barolo so here is one: very young, obviously, but already drinking well; river stones and cranberry and enough weighty mouthfeel to hint at good things to come.