1999 Georg Breuer Rauenthal Nonnenberg 12.5%

O

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
Two years ago, we loved a 2002 of the above, so I did not hesitate (after consulting David...) when, in January, I saw a solitary bottle of this in the shop adjoining Casa Seña, Santa Fe's most haute bourgeoisie restaurant.

Last night the aromas were lovely, with fragrant lime and enticing minerality. Excellent texture and body but, before food, the sweetness was a little candied. With food, that note disappeared, so peace and harmony were reestablished in the kingdom. But the flavors remained better than the taste, which always disappoints me a little, like an unfulfilled promise. The acidity was in balance with the sweetness, but it seemed un-integrated, something I normally associate with acidification. But, in a cold climate like this, chaptalization is more likely than acidification, no? I didn't think chaptalization generated the same sensation of separateness as acidification, but perhaps it does. Plus I have no knowledge of the 1999 climate conditions in the Rheingau. Sigh, I am so utterly devoid of knowledge. Please illuminate me.
 
So 1999 was a warm year, with relatively low acid (but nothing like say 2003). Chaptalization is a possibility for this wine (I don't see a pradikat in your title, and surely that would be part of the wine name alongside its alcohol percentage if it had one.), but acidification was not allowed in 1999, so your conjecture about added acid is wrong. I actually doubt there was any chaptalization either, as 1999 was warm enough to get high sugars without help.

1999 is a tricky vintage, and the wines can be enjoyable, though I rarely find them "interesting." The candied aspect you note is not unusual.
 
First time it was allowed was for the scorching 2003 vintage.

I would not call it a vintage by vintage decision, but rather something that was done due to the exceptional circumstances that happened that year. It's not a decision they had ever needed to make prior to '03.
 
Interesting. In Argentina chaptalization is forbidden, but not acidification. In Germany, acidification is forbidden (with this exception), but not chaptalization. Begs the question of what is the point (or virtue) of forbidding what you seldom need, and permitting what you often do.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Interesting. In Argentina chaptalization is forbidden, but not acidification. In Germany, acidification is forbidden (with this exception), but not chaptalization. Begs the question of what is the point (or virtue) of forbidding what you seldom need, and permitting what you often do.
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Gives one the air of authority while not pissing anybody off.
 
In regards to chaptalization in Germany, let's remember that it is not permitted for wines with a pradikat designation or for any of the Grosses/Erstes Gewachs, so it's not allowed for the good stuff.

There used to be a time in Germany, not that long ago, when even good producers had vintages where things did not get particularly ripe. Thus the chaptalization of QbA wines was useful for folks that we like. It's long since institutionalized, and the producers we don't give a damn about would never allow it to go away.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
the flavors remained better than the taste
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Do you rather mean that the aromas remained better than the taste? (Taste is, with smell, one of the two components of flavor.)
 
originally posted by VS:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
the flavors remained better than the taste
Click to expand...
Do you rather mean that the aromas remained better than the taste? (Taste is, with smell, one of the two components of flavor.)
Click to expand...

Yes, of course, thank you for the careful reading. As Jonathan might say, I'm pretty sure it's due to inexcusable sloppiness, while the rakish blubberfiend would be genuinely fascinated by this kind of slip between meaning and vocabulary.
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by VS:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
the flavors remained better than the taste
Click to expand...
Do you rather mean that the aromas remained better than the taste? (Taste is, with smell, one of the two components of flavor.)
Click to expand...

Yes, of course, thank you for the careful reading. As Jonathan might say, I'm pretty sure it's due to inexcusable sloppiness, while the rakish blubberfiend would be genuinely fascinated by this kind of slip between meaning and vocabulary.
Click to expand...

Don't you go stealing my inexcusable sloppiness. If I run out, what will I do to replace it?
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Interesting. In Argentina chaptalization is forbidden, but not acidification. In Germany, acidification is forbidden (with this exception), but not chaptalization. Begs the question of what is the point (or virtue) of forbidding what you seldom need, and permitting what you often do.
Click to expand...

The intention is to assist in securing higher general quality. For example, I can see an Argentine producer who wants to get a few more bottles out of a vintage of cheaper, bulk-style wine who would chaptalize and then water back to increase volume.

At least, I imagine this is why lawmakers would forbid chaptalization/acidification.
 
originally posted by Morgan Harris:
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
Interesting. In Argentina chaptalization is forbidden, but not acidification. In Germany, acidification is forbidden (with this exception), but not chaptalization. Begs the question of what is the point (or virtue) of forbidding what you seldom need, and permitting what you often do.
Click to expand...

The intention is to assist in securing higher general quality. For example, I can see an Argentine producer who wants to get a few more bottles out of a vintage of cheaper, bulk-style wine who would chaptalize and then water back to increase volume.

At least, I imagine this is why lawmakers would forbid chaptalization/acidification.
Click to expand...

That might, to some extent, explain why they would forbid the "bad" practices they don't need, but wouldn't explain why they allow the "bad" practices that their climates regularly require.
 
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