A Few Recent TNs: Foillard, De Moor, L. Michel, Laurent

Ian Fitzsimmons

Ian Fitzsimmons
Louis Michel 2008

Montee de Tonnerre: A tad musty and fuzzy immediately; after 40 minutes, monolithic muteness, then hints of mineral dust and acid bite. Obviously young, but clear and pure, with apparent power in reserve.

Butteaux VV: Very nice, very young, yet with some air time the Chablis tang and acidity assert themselves. A small, clear joy. Half the bottle, sealed in a clean 375, two days later: texturally less viscous and tastes clearer and brinier. A limpid, fresh, pure Chablis 1er.

These are my first tastes of Michel’s 1er Chablis, and I’m smitten.

Foillard 2007 Morgon Py 3.14

Voluptuous, cossetting the palate like a satin down comforter, then resolving to firm structure and chiseled acidity. Some wine. Drank the rest in bits over about five days. With some awkward phases in between, the dregs on the last day finally tasted fully open, showing great balance, lots of flavor, glimpses of grandeur, even.

Foillard’s 2007 Morgons have given me a small window on how Gamay-based wine can exceed the merely very good, in two renditions. Thanks to Joe for needling me out of my comfort zone.

De Moor 2008 Bourgogne-Chitry

I really like this wine - the minerality, savor, and tang of good AOC Chablis, but with somehow more finesse, precision, and delicacy. I would buy this over 98% of the AOC Chablis I'm familiar with. Is it fair to compare the De Moors with Catherine and Didier at Clos Roche Blanche, in terms of the quality of wine they draw out of unheralded land?

Imho, this wine is also a typical Louis-Dressner import: affordable, interesting enough to tangibly improve daily quality of life, without tremendous drama. Thanks, Joe D. Kudos to Chambers for having the wit to order De Moor wines in magnums.

Dominique Laurent 2006 Corton VV

I had to try one of these, though they are very young. Moderately rich with decent sap and savor, red fruit - more cherry than strawberry - solid structure and tannins. Nothing to complain about, with prospect of a very good wine in eight or ten years. My experience of GC Burgundy is too limited to opine further. Purchased for $25.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Foillard 2007 Morgon Py 3.14

Drank the rest in bits over about five days...the dregs on the last day finally tasted fully open...

Somehow that just seems wrong. And hard to believe.

Yet it is some wine.
 
The last glasses were the best.

Of course, the experiment is fully replicable. But note that half the bottle was sequestered in a clean 375 on opening, so day five in my lab might equate to day three or four in yours.
 
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