Riesling

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Pewsey Vale "The Contours" Riesling 1998
An absurdly strong aroma of lime and petrol. Dry but fleshy. I like this, but I can understand why some feel that Ozzie Riesling can be a bit one-dimensional. But that one dimension of this wine is one that I like very much!

Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 1999
Quite unlike most Zillikens I have had since it was a bit flabby and fruit-heavy. The aromas were lovely and pure, however. Perhaps the acid spine will emerge with time?

Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese 1993
Lovely, lively, high acid wine, more typical Saar than the 1999 above, it started to smell of green peas with air; lovely balance of sweetness, steel, acid and purity. Lovely.

Zilliken Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese 1993
Sweeter, of course, than the Spätlese, but still with that lovely green pea aroma; steely, lively, deliciously sugary yet savoury. Lovely.

Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auselse 1988
This was somehow off: it smelled of lime and urine. No fruit. Not obviously corked, but some such flaw that stripped it of its fruit.

Grünhäuser Herrenberg Riesling Auselse Fuder 153 1988
Lovely. Darker colour than the straight Auslese. Honey and steel aromas to the pure Riesling fruit. Drying a bit on the palate so it is just perfect! Racy, steely, lively, aged yet not tired.

Kesselstatt Graacher Josephshöfer Auslese 1983
Deep, honeyed, floral and copper kettle aromas; rich, sweet, honeyed palate - none of that steely character I usually find with Saar and Ruwer. Rich, but lovely.

Louis Guntrum Niersteiner Rosenberg Auslese 1976
A Rheinhessen. Very clean and pure Riesling aroma but very, VERY ripe and rich. The colour, smell and palate is that of a much younger wine, but there is a balance between the roundness and the dried character so this is, to my tastes, a perfect time to drink it.

Grünhäuser Abstberg Spätlese 1973
A lovely aroma of bruised apple and honey; dryish already with little indication that there is generous sugar in the wine, perfectly balanced, delightfully high acid. Lovely, though supposedly from a weak vintage.

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr feine Auslese 1966
Before the modern system there were Auslese, feine Auslese, feinste Auslese and still some further category that I can't remember the name of. These have now become Auslese, GK and Lange GK Auslese. So this is what would now be GK Auslese. Orange colour. A lovely aroma of copper kettles and bruised apple - though obviously oxidative, this is incredibly lively and doesn't seem tired at all. It seems dry and racy on the palate, the sugar has vanished, it is steely and racy and there is nothing soft about it. Lovely.

Prinz von Hessen Johannisberger Klaus Beerenauslese 2003
Very intense crystallized fruit aromas; very sweet but much better acidity than I thought this year would have. The finish is actually refreshing! One more example of why those of us who disliked 2003 initially must in some instances say positives: the structure has surfaced from the fathoms of fruit.

Landgräflich Hessiches Weingut Johannisberger Klaus Beerenauslese 1975
This is the same producer and vineyard as above, just the name has changed. A super-intense copper aroma; dry but sweet paradox on the palate, grippy; lovely.

Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Beerenauslese 1992
9,5% abv. Lovely passionfruit intensity; super acidity. I just don't see how the complexity strengthens with the prädikat!

Trimbach Cuvée Fr. Emile SGN 1983
12,5% and it shows after these 7-8% abv wines. But the aroma is lovely: very pure Riesling, floral and steely. Slightly sweet, super acidity, mineral, intense, interminable aftertaste. Outstanding. But could do with a bit more age...

To finish, we opened up a Champagne: Fr. Boulard Les Murgiers. A brut nature, Pinot dominant wine, with lovely crisp, citric and red fruit, floral aromas; crisp yet friendly, elegant mousse, racy, interminable finish. Lovely.
 
relying on distant memory, i think it was feine, feinste, and lastly hockfeinste (sp?). when this was outlawed you started seeing things like white capsule, gold capsule, and long gold capsule at places like jj. prum and fritz haag. j.j. christoffel uses *, **, and *** on his bottlings.

the only bottling i can remember drinking with feinste on the label was a 1969 bernkastler (sp?) doctor auslese. i believe that the outlawing of this nomenclature was concurrent with going from the 700ml bottle to the 750ml.
 
First of all thanks a lot for the notes Otto. Aged Zilliken can be great indeed.

Kesselstatt Graacher Josephshöfer Auslese 1983
Deep, honeyed, floral and copper kettle aromas; rich, sweet, honeyed palate - none of that steely character I usually find with Saar and Ruwer. Rich, but lovely.

Its from Graach - Mittelmosel between Bernkastel and Zeltingen and bordering Wehlener Sonnenuhr. So there should be no Saar or Ruwer-character here. To e Josephöfer always seems to big and rich for its own good. I have had this '83, but a long time ago. It was like that. Rich fruit and not my favorite.

Grünhäuser Abstberg Spätlese 1973
A lovely aroma of bruised apple and honey; dryish already with little indication that there is generous sugar in the wine, perfectly balanced, delightfully high acid. Lovely, though supposedly from a weak vintage.

I like '73. Yes it is not a great vintage, but not bad - more medium. The largest problem was very high yields, so they lack a little in concentration. The greatest thing about '73 is the clarity of the fruit which IMO makes them much more interesting than for example '76.
 
originally posted by Arnt Egil Nordlien:
The greatest thing about '73 is the clarity of the fruit which IMO makes them much more interesting than for example '76.

More interesting as in better?
 
originally posted by Arnt Egil Nordlien:

Its from Graach - Mittelmosel between Bernkastel and Zeltingen and bordering Wehlener Sonnenuhr.

Other side of the river from Wehlener Sonnenuhr, isn't it?
 
originally posted by mlawton:
originally posted by Arnt Egil Nordlien:

Its from Graach - Mittelmosel between Bernkastel and Zeltingen and bordering Wehlener Sonnenuhr.

Other side of the river from Wehlener Sonnenuhr, isn't it?

It's between the Domprobst and the Sonnenuhr, which are both directly on the opposite side of the river from the actual town of Wehlen.
 
I don't always mind cinerea in my riesling. It is more the character of it. You have vintages with loads of botrytis in the wines of Mosel, yet its so pure that it is most noticable in the texture. Like 2005 - there are wines with 100% botrytis-selections that have beautiful aromatics. Actually 2010 also had quite a lot of this fine botrytis. And you have vintages like 2006 and 1976 where the rot is so dirty. Botrytis cinerea is one type of rot that with time leads to other types of rot. More difficult they also appear together and make it tougher or impossible to make correct selections. Some will always do better than others, but to me it is quite vintage-dependable.
 
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