Well, it's about time! I had wanted to meet Eric for awhile, yet the stars were never in the right alignment. He wasn't available back in '07 when I visited Seattle and I had missed him the number of times he was in NYC before and after that trip, but his impromptu visit to NY last week finally afforded me the opportunity to pop corks with him.
It was a small group for dinner at Beacon, just Wilfred Van Gorp, Yaacov Barselah, Eric and I, though Christine Huang was able to hang out with us for drinks. After surviving a 16.4% blowtorch of a fourteen year old California Chardonnay shared with us by a visiting assistant winemaker who had celebrated a bit too hard before joining us at the table for a few minutes, we were finally able to open up some good wine and enjoy a great evening together.
2005 Dönnhoff- Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
Decanted two hours ahead of time, I would've expected the wine to have fleshed out some more. It was tight aromatically and a bit disjointed on the palate. Plenty of ripe guava and tropical fruit with a nice acidic finish, but the acidity seems a bit lacking through the mid-palate, amplifying the sweetness and making the wine flat. Pleasant, but it really doesn't hold your attention. B+/A-.
2001 Zind-Humbrecht- Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain - France, Alsace, Thann, Alsace Grand Cru AOC
Refermenting. NR (flawed)
1973 Faustino- Rioja Gran Reserva I - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Started with a slightly off-putting chemical note on the nose, but it dissipated quickly with air and revealed traditional aged cherry, cedar and leather aromatics with a touch of VA. Soft and supple in the mouth, with like flavors and it picks up a nice balsamic note with air. The acidity is a little higher and the fruit less upfront and sweet than a bottle opened in October, but it shows nice complexity and an enjoyable profile you can only get from a wine with a lot of age on it. A-/B+.
1970 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España)- Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
From a half bottle. To my surprise, I've found that a number of half bottles of this have been drinking better than 750s. Not this one. The wine showed a strong bitter note and didn't resemble any other bottle that I've had of it. Not corked, but definitely off. NR (flawed)
1989 Domaine du Pégaü- Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape
Shows a lot of sweet raspberries on the nose and palate, but without the vibrancy of youth. Instead it has a delicious aged patina to it that melds well with the sweet spices and game notes. This bottle is showing quite grenachey, with some burnt rubber showing and its a bit more chunky in the middle than other bottles I've had. That said, the structure provides a nice framework and there's good length to the fruit. A/A-.
2000 Domaine du Pégaü- Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape
A much more flamboyant wine than the '89. Vibrant, sweet red fruit and spice dominate throughout. It doesn't have the structure of the '89 or the depth of flavors, but it's delicious in a sheer hedonistic way. A/A-.
2000 Domaine du Pégaü- Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée da Capo - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape
I know I wasn't the only one at the table that didn't like this wine and I haven't liked a Cuvée da Capo to date. It's massively extracted, too much so for its own good, the fruit is port-like, but because of the extraction, dryness from the wood and blowtorch alcohol, the fruit doesn't really come off as sweet. This just isn't a balanced wine and offers me no real pleasure. B-/C+.
1971 Domaine des Baumard- Quarts de Chaume - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume
This bottle is showing its age a bit as the sweetness has faded more than other bottles and there's a bit more of an oxidative note to the wine. The usual quince, pineapple and mineral flavors and aromas are there, as is the bitter note I usually find on the finish. The acidity is still vibrant and the wine still provides a nice window into what aged Chenin is about, but I'd start drinking these up. B+.
It was a small group for dinner at Beacon, just Wilfred Van Gorp, Yaacov Barselah, Eric and I, though Christine Huang was able to hang out with us for drinks. After surviving a 16.4% blowtorch of a fourteen year old California Chardonnay shared with us by a visiting assistant winemaker who had celebrated a bit too hard before joining us at the table for a few minutes, we were finally able to open up some good wine and enjoy a great evening together.
2005 Dönnhoff- Norheimer Dellchen Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
Decanted two hours ahead of time, I would've expected the wine to have fleshed out some more. It was tight aromatically and a bit disjointed on the palate. Plenty of ripe guava and tropical fruit with a nice acidic finish, but the acidity seems a bit lacking through the mid-palate, amplifying the sweetness and making the wine flat. Pleasant, but it really doesn't hold your attention. B+/A-.
2001 Zind-Humbrecht- Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St. Urbain - France, Alsace, Thann, Alsace Grand Cru AOC
Refermenting. NR (flawed)
1973 Faustino- Rioja Gran Reserva I - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
Started with a slightly off-putting chemical note on the nose, but it dissipated quickly with air and revealed traditional aged cherry, cedar and leather aromatics with a touch of VA. Soft and supple in the mouth, with like flavors and it picks up a nice balsamic note with air. The acidity is a little higher and the fruit less upfront and sweet than a bottle opened in October, but it shows nice complexity and an enjoyable profile you can only get from a wine with a lot of age on it. A-/B+.
1970 C.V.N.E. (Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España)- Rioja Viña Real Gran Reserva - Spain, La Rioja, La Rioja Alta, Rioja
From a half bottle. To my surprise, I've found that a number of half bottles of this have been drinking better than 750s. Not this one. The wine showed a strong bitter note and didn't resemble any other bottle that I've had of it. Not corked, but definitely off. NR (flawed)
1989 Domaine du Pégaü- Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape
Shows a lot of sweet raspberries on the nose and palate, but without the vibrancy of youth. Instead it has a delicious aged patina to it that melds well with the sweet spices and game notes. This bottle is showing quite grenachey, with some burnt rubber showing and its a bit more chunky in the middle than other bottles I've had. That said, the structure provides a nice framework and there's good length to the fruit. A/A-.
2000 Domaine du Pégaü- Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape
A much more flamboyant wine than the '89. Vibrant, sweet red fruit and spice dominate throughout. It doesn't have the structure of the '89 or the depth of flavors, but it's delicious in a sheer hedonistic way. A/A-.
2000 Domaine du Pégaü- Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée da Capo - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Ch“teauneuf-du-Pape
I know I wasn't the only one at the table that didn't like this wine and I haven't liked a Cuvée da Capo to date. It's massively extracted, too much so for its own good, the fruit is port-like, but because of the extraction, dryness from the wood and blowtorch alcohol, the fruit doesn't really come off as sweet. This just isn't a balanced wine and offers me no real pleasure. B-/C+.
1971 Domaine des Baumard- Quarts de Chaume - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Quarts de Chaume
This bottle is showing its age a bit as the sweetness has faded more than other bottles and there's a bit more of an oxidative note to the wine. The usual quince, pineapple and mineral flavors and aromas are there, as is the bitter note I usually find on the finish. The acidity is still vibrant and the wine still provides a nice window into what aged Chenin is about, but I'd start drinking these up. B+.