Sharon Bowman and new hubby Arnaud were back in New York last night and we feted their return with plenty of food, wine and fun at the hipster lounge known as Chez SFJoe. I was especially keen to see Sharon again as aside from bringing her wit and her charm, she generously agreed to schlep a few bottles of wine for me across the Atlantic. Thanks again Sharon!
Michel Abood, Chris and Lisa Coad, Asher Rubinstein, Jay Miller and Ben Sherwin were there to welcome our French visitors, but it being a school night, Joe didnt have time to whip up his usual gastronomique feast, but he did manage to make up some very tasty black trumpet mushroom quesadillas and huitlacoche (corn fungus) quesadillas and that, along with roasted cauliflower, precisely and laboriously cut by Sharon, morel risotto with arugula and chickens from Bouley Bakery served as a nice accompaniment to the lengthy list of wines that paraded up and down the table. Sharon also hand carried some wonderful cheeses in from France.
Quite an array of wines, but thats pretty much expected with this bunch. I gather the world was turned upside for a number of folks there when Sharon, a known Chenin Blanc hater liked a Vouvray and I actually liked a Cot. I know Coad was worried about Sharon and I sitting together with his belief that our palates were like matter and anti-matter, but there was no cataclysm. In fact, it seemed as if perhaps I got a little of my peanut butter in her chocolate and she got a little chocolate in my peanut butter a la Reeses.
In any event, a very fun night and its always great to see Sharon and I hope we see more of her soonshe still has six more bottles for me!
Brad
Notes are in the order I tasted, for the most part. I missed a few wines and didnt jot down notes on a few. I know I missed a Clos Roche Blanche Ros, there was a corked 98 Cte-Rtie, and two Champagnes, one which was a Selosse that I didnt love.
1964 Huet- Vouvray Petillant Sec
Talk about blas, Joe opens this up to a small chorus of the 64 again? Thanks to Joe Ive had this wine eight or nine times with variable showings. Last year at the Huet Fete Part III, it showed very well. This bottle seemed a bit more advanced and tired. It was a deep gold color and while the bead was soft, it seemed fresher than others Ive tried, but strangely, the flavors were more muted and dominated more by apples and desiccated stone fruits to go with its ubiquitous earthy mineral character. Fresher bottles show less apple, more vibrant apricot and usually a citrus and honeycomb note. Still, this certainly beats a sharp stick in the eye. B+.
1990 Nikolaihof- Riesling Vinothek, Wachau, Smaragd
Always one of my favorite Austrian wines. A very nice showing tonight, but maybe a small step down from the last time Ive had it as it was showing a more subdued persona and a little less fruit and oomph and a bit more petrol. The usual wet stone and friendly yellow fruit character is there along with its precise and rigid backbone, but its a little like talking to a friend thats momentarily staring off into space and not really listening. A/A-.
1962 Huet- Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu, Demi-Sec
Lighter gold than the 64 Petillant. This was popped and slammed into a decanter, but served before it really got going. Luckily I went back to it some hours later when the transformation had begun. Even Sharon was astounded by the change that took place. Initially very tightly coiled with big structure and showing dried fruits, earth and hints of tea. After a few hours of air, though, the wine emerged from its cocoon. The structure, while staying very fresh, pulled back a little to reveal much more of the wines fruit character that, through the magical powers of Vouvray, had gotten younger! While the aged stone fruit notes were still there, a youthful quince profile had also emerged along with intriguing brown spices and ginger notes. Long and harmonious in the mouth. A much better showing than a bottle I had with Joe last year. Solid A-.
1996 J.-F. Coche-Dury- Meursault
Im not sure anyone at the table liked this wine. It was all popcorn and gunpowder on the nose and largely that on the palate, though much more sulfury and oaky in the mouth. I chugged the remains of my Huet for a pour of this? Please. C+.
Somewhere around here Sharon broke out a Chardonnay with the name Jambon,or something like that. Truly egregious stuff that tasted like a durian fruit to me. Im sure someone else will provide the name, but it was a DNPIM (Do Not Put In Mouth) wine to me.
1998 Williams Selyem- Pinot Noir, Rochioli Riverblock, Russian River Valley
Shows a pretty nose of sweet red cherries, a touch of cola and spice with a hint of green in a pleasant way. Elegant on the palate while maintaining nice fruit levels. Like flavors with no real trace of oak. Very tasty Pinot and drinking well now. A-.
1999 Williams Selyem- Pinot Noir, Hirsch Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Corked.
2006 Herv Villemade/ Domaine du Moulin- Vin de Pays du Loir et Cher Pivoine
A geek wine carried in by Sharon and a very pleasant surprise. Im usually not the biggest fan of Ct, finding them usually a little under ripe with severe structure, while Argentine Malbecs often show a little too much wood, but this is a fun, fruit forward and very gluggable drink. Loads of crushed blackberries and black pepper with an easy going structure. I wouldnt mind having a case of this to go along with dinners in front of the TV. Low B+.
1981 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva, Via Real
Ive always loved this wine and the bottle we had tonight was younger and fresher than one I had with Lou Kessler this past summer. Deeply perfumed and full of cherries, cedar, smoke and spice. Theres real sweetness and vibrancy to the fruit and not as much in the leather and worn wood department as there often is. Just delicious with a long life ahead of it. A/A-.
1988 Chteau Musar, Bekaa Valley
Really comforting on the nose and palate in a rustic way. Its like being on a small farm full of various livestock on a rainy autumnal day. Brown, earthy, barnyardy with sweet brown spices. Perhaps a little less generous on the palate than on the nose with leathery notes and a root beer thing going on. But, theres nice sweetness throughout, though it is a touch drying on the finish. Would be nice to curl up by the fire with this one and just think about life. Solid B+.
1991 Chteau Musar, Bekaa Valley
Aromatically, I liked the 88 better than the 91, but this is the better wine. Ladies should keep their manicured nails away from this one as there is a big blast of volatile acidity here that pretty much dominates the nose. While still there on the palate, it is nowhere near as dominating as it is on the nose. Brighter, redder and fresher than the 88 with livelier acidity. Deep, long and complex with delicious red fruit, spice and a pleasant tobacco streak. A-.
1995 Massolino- Barolo, Vigna Rionda Riserva
Another wine we needed to decant much earlier and didnt and its showing was hurt by the lack of air. The nose was dominated by cloves, nutmeg and sassafras. Way too young and unyielding on the palate. Theres a noticeable core of red fruit, but the structure is formidable and making the wine too austere. Bury in the cellar. B+.
1962 Beychevelle- St. Julien
Joe whips this out to go with cheeses and to go with a theme that only he knows is developing. 62 wines. Beautiful, classic aged Bordeaux. Perfectly integrated with red fruit, earth and herb flavors and aromas with more of a tobacco character on the palate. Drink up. A-/B+.
1962 Chteau du Breuil- Coteaux du Layon, Beaulieu
Sharon brought this along thinking this was Doughertys birth year. I guess Joe looks young for his age as hes a couple of years older. Golden colored. Ben, being a Chenin newbie, thinks the wine is corked. Hes quickly schooled on the lanolin/wooliness character aged Chenins often exhibit. Rich, with honey, apricot, bergamot and mineral flavors. It lacks the mid-palate excitement and depth of an old late harvest Vouvray, but is holding up well and drinking nicely. B+.
Michel Abood, Chris and Lisa Coad, Asher Rubinstein, Jay Miller and Ben Sherwin were there to welcome our French visitors, but it being a school night, Joe didnt have time to whip up his usual gastronomique feast, but he did manage to make up some very tasty black trumpet mushroom quesadillas and huitlacoche (corn fungus) quesadillas and that, along with roasted cauliflower, precisely and laboriously cut by Sharon, morel risotto with arugula and chickens from Bouley Bakery served as a nice accompaniment to the lengthy list of wines that paraded up and down the table. Sharon also hand carried some wonderful cheeses in from France.
Quite an array of wines, but thats pretty much expected with this bunch. I gather the world was turned upside for a number of folks there when Sharon, a known Chenin Blanc hater liked a Vouvray and I actually liked a Cot. I know Coad was worried about Sharon and I sitting together with his belief that our palates were like matter and anti-matter, but there was no cataclysm. In fact, it seemed as if perhaps I got a little of my peanut butter in her chocolate and she got a little chocolate in my peanut butter a la Reeses.
In any event, a very fun night and its always great to see Sharon and I hope we see more of her soonshe still has six more bottles for me!
Brad
Notes are in the order I tasted, for the most part. I missed a few wines and didnt jot down notes on a few. I know I missed a Clos Roche Blanche Ros, there was a corked 98 Cte-Rtie, and two Champagnes, one which was a Selosse that I didnt love.
1964 Huet- Vouvray Petillant Sec
Talk about blas, Joe opens this up to a small chorus of the 64 again? Thanks to Joe Ive had this wine eight or nine times with variable showings. Last year at the Huet Fete Part III, it showed very well. This bottle seemed a bit more advanced and tired. It was a deep gold color and while the bead was soft, it seemed fresher than others Ive tried, but strangely, the flavors were more muted and dominated more by apples and desiccated stone fruits to go with its ubiquitous earthy mineral character. Fresher bottles show less apple, more vibrant apricot and usually a citrus and honeycomb note. Still, this certainly beats a sharp stick in the eye. B+.
1990 Nikolaihof- Riesling Vinothek, Wachau, Smaragd
Always one of my favorite Austrian wines. A very nice showing tonight, but maybe a small step down from the last time Ive had it as it was showing a more subdued persona and a little less fruit and oomph and a bit more petrol. The usual wet stone and friendly yellow fruit character is there along with its precise and rigid backbone, but its a little like talking to a friend thats momentarily staring off into space and not really listening. A/A-.
1962 Huet- Vouvray Le Haut-Lieu, Demi-Sec
Lighter gold than the 64 Petillant. This was popped and slammed into a decanter, but served before it really got going. Luckily I went back to it some hours later when the transformation had begun. Even Sharon was astounded by the change that took place. Initially very tightly coiled with big structure and showing dried fruits, earth and hints of tea. After a few hours of air, though, the wine emerged from its cocoon. The structure, while staying very fresh, pulled back a little to reveal much more of the wines fruit character that, through the magical powers of Vouvray, had gotten younger! While the aged stone fruit notes were still there, a youthful quince profile had also emerged along with intriguing brown spices and ginger notes. Long and harmonious in the mouth. A much better showing than a bottle I had with Joe last year. Solid A-.
1996 J.-F. Coche-Dury- Meursault
Im not sure anyone at the table liked this wine. It was all popcorn and gunpowder on the nose and largely that on the palate, though much more sulfury and oaky in the mouth. I chugged the remains of my Huet for a pour of this? Please. C+.
Somewhere around here Sharon broke out a Chardonnay with the name Jambon,or something like that. Truly egregious stuff that tasted like a durian fruit to me. Im sure someone else will provide the name, but it was a DNPIM (Do Not Put In Mouth) wine to me.
1998 Williams Selyem- Pinot Noir, Rochioli Riverblock, Russian River Valley
Shows a pretty nose of sweet red cherries, a touch of cola and spice with a hint of green in a pleasant way. Elegant on the palate while maintaining nice fruit levels. Like flavors with no real trace of oak. Very tasty Pinot and drinking well now. A-.
1999 Williams Selyem- Pinot Noir, Hirsch Vineyard, Sonoma Coast
Corked.
2006 Herv Villemade/ Domaine du Moulin- Vin de Pays du Loir et Cher Pivoine
A geek wine carried in by Sharon and a very pleasant surprise. Im usually not the biggest fan of Ct, finding them usually a little under ripe with severe structure, while Argentine Malbecs often show a little too much wood, but this is a fun, fruit forward and very gluggable drink. Loads of crushed blackberries and black pepper with an easy going structure. I wouldnt mind having a case of this to go along with dinners in front of the TV. Low B+.
1981 Cune- Rioja Gran Reserva, Via Real
Ive always loved this wine and the bottle we had tonight was younger and fresher than one I had with Lou Kessler this past summer. Deeply perfumed and full of cherries, cedar, smoke and spice. Theres real sweetness and vibrancy to the fruit and not as much in the leather and worn wood department as there often is. Just delicious with a long life ahead of it. A/A-.
1988 Chteau Musar, Bekaa Valley
Really comforting on the nose and palate in a rustic way. Its like being on a small farm full of various livestock on a rainy autumnal day. Brown, earthy, barnyardy with sweet brown spices. Perhaps a little less generous on the palate than on the nose with leathery notes and a root beer thing going on. But, theres nice sweetness throughout, though it is a touch drying on the finish. Would be nice to curl up by the fire with this one and just think about life. Solid B+.
1991 Chteau Musar, Bekaa Valley
Aromatically, I liked the 88 better than the 91, but this is the better wine. Ladies should keep their manicured nails away from this one as there is a big blast of volatile acidity here that pretty much dominates the nose. While still there on the palate, it is nowhere near as dominating as it is on the nose. Brighter, redder and fresher than the 88 with livelier acidity. Deep, long and complex with delicious red fruit, spice and a pleasant tobacco streak. A-.
1995 Massolino- Barolo, Vigna Rionda Riserva
Another wine we needed to decant much earlier and didnt and its showing was hurt by the lack of air. The nose was dominated by cloves, nutmeg and sassafras. Way too young and unyielding on the palate. Theres a noticeable core of red fruit, but the structure is formidable and making the wine too austere. Bury in the cellar. B+.
1962 Beychevelle- St. Julien
Joe whips this out to go with cheeses and to go with a theme that only he knows is developing. 62 wines. Beautiful, classic aged Bordeaux. Perfectly integrated with red fruit, earth and herb flavors and aromas with more of a tobacco character on the palate. Drink up. A-/B+.
1962 Chteau du Breuil- Coteaux du Layon, Beaulieu
Sharon brought this along thinking this was Doughertys birth year. I guess Joe looks young for his age as hes a couple of years older. Golden colored. Ben, being a Chenin newbie, thinks the wine is corked. Hes quickly schooled on the lanolin/wooliness character aged Chenins often exhibit. Rich, with honey, apricot, bergamot and mineral flavors. It lacks the mid-palate excitement and depth of an old late harvest Vouvray, but is holding up well and drinking nicely. B+.