TN: The Cod Jeebus: All-White Dinner at Brad's (Feb 29, 2012)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
...with a tip of the hat to Jeff Connell, originator of the idea.

attendees: Brad, Sarah, Lisa, Joe, Jeff

Brad Kane, the Jonas Grumby of the NYC wine scene, sailed out from Montauk to catch fish. He caught many a dogfish shark (for those not up on their ichthyology, that's not a food fish), but eventually he caught some cod.

So, fresh cod for dinner it is. Chowdah. Oven roasted. And, while we're at it, an all-white menu that includes roast cauliflower, celery root puree, and a cheese board (Langres, La Tur, brie, a tomme).

And what color wine, boys and girls?

F. et O. Savary 2009 Chablis VV - definitely chablis flavors (lemon, cream, crushed sea shells) but acidity is blowsy; may well be a vintage fault; good enough wine

Castello di Verduno 2010 VdT "Bellis Perennis" - (Joe, upon doing more research I misspoke:) this is a blanc de noirs made from pelavergo piccolo, a rather obscure Piemontese grape; Sarah calls out "needles" pricking her tongue (I detected no petillance so must be acidity?); Joe calls out a mid-to-late palate bitterness that is appealing; the wine has a slightly oily texture and I, too, appreciate the bitter/dry change; interesting wine

Pepiere 2001 Muscadet "Clos des Briords" - Joe is slightly miffed that he grabbed the wrong bottle because he meant to bring the 1995; this bottle has some ullage and, on entry, the wine is slightly oxy; however, it is still in good shape otherwise and the rush of acid and minerals is pretty good compensation

Fevre 2004 Chablis GC "Les Clos" - also at the edge of oxidation, which is a shame for such a young bottle of grand cru wine; it is a good match with the chowder; a few hours later the caramelly note comes out more strongly

Huet 2002 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Le Mont" - corked

Knoll 1998 Loibner Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Vinothek fullung - corked

A. J. Adam 2009 Hofberg Kabinett - 2 594 581 03 10, excellent zip, just a touch sweet (I guess that's to be expected nowadays), very likable wine

Huet 2002 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Le Mont" - let's try that again: pretty apricotty nose, surprisingly lightweight texture, with more air it also gets kinda oxy and maybe a bit too golden colored; much discussion ensues about whether the 02s were always like this, whether this bodes ill for their future, or whether they simply started a bit more advanced-seeming but are evolving as slowly as other Huet

Foillard 2007 Morgon CdP - we needed more wine and these are drinking well now so... and it is drinking really well: brilliant, crisp, red berries floating on air

Conversation ranged widely and intelligently, supported by all the wonderful food and drink.

Many, many thanks to Brad for hosting an excellent dinner.
 
At first I thought the title featured a misspelling of Coad. Characteristically interesting line-up, thanks for the record.

Pity about the Fevre. I have a magnum squirreled, also the Bouguerots, but may take my chances, as middle-aged GC Chablis seems beside the point.
 
a-lucky-night-for-goldy.jpg
 
Thanks much, Jeff, for these crisp and accurate notes. Many thanks to Brad for a great dinner, and to all for fine company.

The Savary was a bit of a dystopian vision of a hotter climate in Chablis. If the village Chablis is that soft and fat, what's to become of "better" sites?

I have brought home a few 2002 demi-secs, the investigation continues.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
TN: The Cod Jeebus: All-White Dinner at Brad's (Feb 29, 2012)...with a tip of the hat to Jeff Connell, originator of the idea.

attendees: Brad, Sarah, Lisa, Joe, Jeff

Brad Kane, the Jonas Grumby of the NYC wine scene, sailed out from Montauk to catch fish. He caught many a dogfish shark (for those not up on their ichthyology, that's not a food fish), but eventually he caught some cod.
Click to expand...
Arthur Treacher's used to use it for fish and chips in the states when there was a commercial netting fishery.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I have brought home a few 2002 demi-secs, the investigation continues.
Click to expand...

They have always had layers and layers of fruit that one needs to get through. They are completely superficial, and could throw you off decades in either direction. What's underneath is unreal, especially in CdB
 
originally posted by John McIlwain:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
TN: The Cod Jeebus: All-White Dinner at Brad's (Feb 29, 2012)...with a tip of the hat to Jeff Connell, originator of the idea.

attendees: Brad, Sarah, Lisa, Joe, Jeff

Brad Kane, the Jonas Grumby of the NYC wine scene, sailed out from Montauk to catch fish. He caught many a dogfish shark (for those not up on their ichthyology, that's not a food fish), but eventually he caught some cod.
Click to expand...
Arthur Treacher's used to use it for fish and chips in the states when there was a commercial netting fishery.
Click to expand...

I believe they used smooth dogfish, different from the spiny ones. They're still exported to Great Britain for fish and chips.
 
Wow! That was quick, Jeff!

As reported, a fun night, though perhaps a number of the wines could've shown better. I am starting to worry a little about the '02 Le Mont Demi-Sec, but will keep my fingers crossed.

Just two pics of the food and a thank you to Mr. Connell for the inspiration.

My first chowder.
Fish_chowder_2-29-12-1.JPG
Block Island cod with celery root and roasted cauliflower.
Cod-celery_root_and_cauliflower_2-29-12.JPG
 
OK, Vouvray heads, let me ask you this - what vintage do you expect to be guessing, blind, when presented with an 89 moelleux ( not constance ) ?
 
originally posted by .sasha:
OK, Vouvray heads, let me ask you this - what vintage do you expect to be guessing, blind, when presented with an 89 moelleux ( not constance ) ?
Click to expand...
We've already done this experiment, and we disagreed.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
originally posted by .sasha:
OK, Vouvray heads, let me ask you this - what vintage do you expect to be guessing, blind, when presented with an 89 moelleux ( not constance ) ?
Click to expand...
We've already done this experiment, and we disagreed.
Click to expand...

That would be correct. But that also brought out plenty of evidence that the ageing here is non-linear, to say the least.
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
Brad, any pre fillet pictures of the cod? How big?
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Unfortunately, no. My hands were just too dirty for me to contemplate taking pictures. I had hoped to get some shots when we got back to the docks, but the crew filleted them out at sea.

I caught three cod and some other species. The cod were probably in the 5-8 lib range, so relatively small.
 
Brilliant idea, and the food looks great. If you add Perigord truffles, it becomes a black tie dinner.

They have always had layers and layers of fruit that one needs to get through...
Click to expand...
That damned fruit, always in the way.
any pre fillet pictures of the cod? How big?
Click to expand...
Serious fishermen burn or delete them, to enhance storytelling opportunities down the road.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
By the way, post the chowder recipe? I'd like to try my hand.
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I basically combined two recipes from epicurious, Strong Fish Stock with New England Fish Chowder.

I doubled the fish stock recipe as I had a bunch of cod heads and frames, used a smidge less celery and a little more carrot and after I strained the stock, I reduced it by about 40%. As for the chowder part, I used bacon instead of salt pork and added a little bit more potato. The key to it though, was the really good fish stock.
 
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