paris / jura

T

twlim

Tse Wei Lim
I'll find myself in Paris end of the month, with a few days in the Jura thrown in.

Any and all suggestions for the former welcome, and as for the latter, I'm wondering if there's any chance in hell that one of the winemakers would be willing to show a cook around their place...

Many thanks!
 
A few years ago we stayed at the Hôtel/Restaurant Jeunet at Arbois and loved the food for its inventiveness within the Jura tradition. There was a very proactive sommelier who was able to produce some excellent pairings from Jura wines on the hotel's wine list and next day sold us some bottles from his wine shop in the town square.

Jura estates, which are available here in Brussls and whose wines I have bought and greatly enjoy, include André & Mireille Tissot, Labet (both father Alain and son Julien) and Rijckaert. They all produce mainly in a non-oxidative style and make tangy Savagnin and delicious Chardonnay which give stiff competition in their own style to many higher priced Burgs. Rijckaert says that some of the locals look on him as an interloper from Burgundy (he is strong in the M“connais) and you may hear remarks which reflect that.

As you probably know, more traditional Jura producers still make Savagnin and Chardonnay in a oxidative style which can have its own charms.

The Jura speciality is, of course, Vin Jaune made from Savagnin in a frankly oxidative style using a method similar to sherry's, which matures under a bacterial veil known locally as "voile" and as "flor" in Jerez. Those which I have enjoyed most come from Macle and Puffeney.

There are two local red varieties, Poulsard and Trousseau, which lake lightly coloured reds and which have their enthusiastic admirers. I haven't had many and none have left an imperishable memory.

I can't see any reason why any of the estates which I mention might not want to show a chef around; quite the contrary I would think.
 
originally posted by Cory Cartwright:
Eat at Bistrot des Claquets and stop by the Clairet's place in Arbois. Also Le Grapiot in Pupillin.
Click to expand...

If you have a French speaker, I bet that Jacques Puffeney or Michel Gahier would meet you. They're both in Montigny, five minutes from Arbois by car. I believe they both sell wine from their cellar door. If you like supernatural wines, the couple that owns Octavin in Arbois couldn't be nicer. And the Clairets make very solid wines and have a tasting room/wine bar in Arbois, as Cory mentioned.

Cory's named the best two places to eat (Claquets for lunch and Grappiot for dinner). (It's as though Cory and I go to Arbois with the same guy.) Grappiot often has Overnoy/Houillon on their list (the domaine is across the street from Grappiot). I've not been to Jeunet. It's pricy.

Lastly, check out the croissants and chocolates at Hirsinger on the main square.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
If you like supernatural wines, the couple that owns Octavin in Arbois couldn't be nicer.
Click to expand...

Wines that vanish into thin air, as if by magic?

Mark Lipton
 
originally posted by Tim York:
There are two local red varieties, Poulsard and Trousseau, which lake lightly coloured reds and which have their enthusiastic admirers. I haven't had many and none have left an imperishable memory.
Click to expand...
Except that a wine made of poulsard is responsible for the single greatest tasting note ever written.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Tim York:
There are two local red varieties, Poulsard and Trousseau, which lake lightly coloured reds and which have their enthusiastic admirers. I haven't had many and none have left an imperishable memory.
Click to expand...
Except that a wine made of poulsard is responsible for the single greatest tasting note ever written.
Click to expand...

Just when Godzilla is finally dead, it returns!
Sounds like a nice trip, TW!
 
I think I could rustle up a French speaker. Never tried the Octavins, but adore Puffeney. I'll see how many wineries I can drag D to. I think she's setting a quota.

I mean, other than cliff climbing, there's not a whole lot else to do there...
 
might find some interesting cheese in the Jura?

I really like the Octavin that I have tried - the Trousseau and the P'tit Poussot Chard are delicious and I liked the sparkler in a grapey/fruity/fun way. And they are available in MA.
 
originally posted by mlawton:
might find some interesting cheese in the Jura?

I really like the Octavin that I have tried - the Trousseau and the P'tit Poussot Chard are delicious and I liked the sparkler in a grapey/fruity/fun way. And they are available in MA.
Click to expand...

I liked the 2010 Trousseau Les Corvees. Really alive. I have a few bottles left; may have to have 1 tonight.
 
originally posted by mlawton:
might find some interesting cheese in the Jura?
Click to expand...
The cheese shop right next to Hirsinger carries various ages of great Comte. Make sure you try the younger Comte. It has the reputation (I haven't a clue where it came from) of being inferior but finding a good example is as rewarding as the aged stuff.
 
What I really want to see, cheese-wise, is whether Marcel Petite (who thanks to Formaggio has a stranglehold on the good comte market in MA) really is all that.

Mlawton - have you tried the Bornards?
 
originally posted by twlim:
What I really want to see, cheese-wise, is whether Marcel Petite (who thanks to Formaggio has a stranglehold on the good comte market in MA) really is all that.

Mlawton - have you tried the Bornards?
Click to expand...

Marcel Petite really is good. Bornards....
 
originally posted by twlim:
What I really want to see, cheese-wise, is whether Marcel Petite (who thanks to Formaggio has a stranglehold on the good comte market in MA) really is all that.

Mlawton - have you tried the Bornards?
Click to expand...

I have no complaint at all about the Petite Comtes, but I'm sure there are others. We had 4yo at Bernard Antony last trip and it was super. I'd guess that didn't come through Petite but who knows? In any event, all Comte is good Comte - young, old, hard to remember a truly bad experience.

As far as Bornard, I've had a few but not recently. Last night, I had another bottle of Octavin though, the P'tit Poussot with some duck confit/ginger/shiitake ravioli with garlic and broccoli. Yumm! Very moreish.
 
The search function might turn up some Bornard notes.

Some of the wines are OK, but it seems to be accidental which.
 
originally posted by mlawton:
originally posted by twlim:
What I really want to see, cheese-wise, is whether Marcel Petite (who thanks to Formaggio has a stranglehold on the good comte market in MA) really is all that.

Mlawton - have you tried the Bornards?
Click to expand...

I have no complaint at all about the Petite Comtes, but I'm sure there are others. We had 4yo at Bernard Antony last trip and it was super. I'd guess that didn't come through Petite but who knows? In any event, all Comte is good Comte - young, old, hard to remember a truly bad experience.

As far as Bornard, I've had a few but not recently. Last night, I had another bottle of Octavin though, the P'tit Poussot with some duck confit/ginger/shiitake ravioli with garlic and broccoli. Yumm! Very moreish.
Click to expand...
Anyone else heard rumors that Anthony is in decline?
 
Anyone else heard rumors that Anthony is in decline?
Click to expand...

They sell here and in HK. I've not been as impressed with the stuff that turns up in Asia. A bit like the air-flown Poilane.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top