Frankenstein Silvaner

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Hans Wirsching Iphöfer Kalb Silvaner Spätlese trocken 2010 - 12,5% abv; c.20; 5 g/l RS; 7 g/l acidity
This is a strange wine. It has very ripe aromas, almost tropical, yet somehow neutral (in this it follows the Alsace Sylvaner of Loew which I am more familiar with than Frankens). The surprise is the palate. It is massively concentrated. It has the fruit and weight of a hot year. But ultimately it is a Franken Frankenstein since it is a life-enforcing wine so electric that galvanism happens in my mouth's muscles. Rarely have I had such concentration and such raciness in a single wine.

Yet I am not entirely sure about the balance of the parts. I wonder if this is one of the de-acidified wines of the vintage? And one where the de-acidification didn't quite work as wanted? But anyhow, it's close enough, and it certainly kept my attention and interest through half a bottle and made me want to try more Franken Silvaner.

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A wine as weighty and ponderous - and interesting - as the book underneath it!
 
Gosh! An emoticon! Is that a first on WD? Is Wirsching usually a good producer of Silvaner? I certainly thought this was interesting, but since I have no frame of reference to put my experience in, I would welcome any further knowledge of the grape.
 
Franken is the home of great Silvaner. Wirsching is a very good producer. From the same village (Iphofen), Johann Ruck seems to now be eclipsing him. Among others I like a lot are, in no particular order and off the top of my head, Horst Sauer, Juliusspital, Schmitt's Kinder, Bürgerspital, Fürstlich Castell'sches Domänenamt, Bickel-Stumpf, Knoll. Extremely good Silvaner can be found from some Rheinhessen producers (they usually call it Grüner Silvaner), most especially Wittmann.
 
originally posted by John Ritchie:
anybody in Franken using native yeasts?
Yes, interest is growing. Of the ones I listed, Knoll and Ruck do, Castell in part, and there are a few others I listed that I believe may be using them, but I'm not completely sure. I know of various others who are "Spontis" but I don't personally know their wines.
 
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