Argentine surprise

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Achaval Ferrer Malbec Finca Bella Vista 2009 - Mendoza, vineyard at 3100ft altitude; 90+ yo vines; 13,5% abv; 50+

This still isn't a style of wine that I'd like to fill my cellar with, but finally I find an Argentine Malbec that I won't mind having a glass of if someone else is paying. There is some obvious oak, but if it is this little noticeable in a young wine I would imagine a few more years will make it pretty much unnoticeable. It has a delightfully savoury aroma, dark fruit but refreshing.

The palate isn't harshly extracted in the manner of the other high-end Malbecs that have been available here, instead it is high in acidity and racy. Unfortunately the oak is more apparent on the palate than on the aroma, but even on the palate it is more a textural thing than an actual taste, since it brings a creamy mouthfeel that is somewhat at odds with the other elements of the wine. Refreshing finish.

This might not make me a fan of Argentine Malbec but I do now understand why Achaval Ferrer has its fans. Or was I just having an off day and this is actually just as spoofy as the others we have had here?
 
The regular bottling from this producer, while being far more forward, is still acceptable in its youth. And I think some cellar time may make it somewhat more than that.
I had not heard of this producer until an English friend mentioned it. Perhaps, I will keep an eye on it and see if the house style is established or in transition; one hopes for the latter.
Best, Jim
 
I tasted bottles from 2003 and 2004 recently and didn't think they had aged well. The oak remained prominent. Built for early consumption. Faustian pact.
 
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