TN: heat and tempest

MarkS

Mark Svereika
Let's get into this, straightaway, it's hot outside, and I live up north 'cuz I like it cool.

Huet, Vouvray, 'le Haut Lieu', demi sec, 2002
Bitter marzipan and burnt sugar, more so on the palate than in the nose. This is good and holding it's own, but has lost it's youthful vivacity and beauty-school charm. Ginger scones and damp wool blanket. Light. Heading toward another realm. B+

Paolo Bea, Rosso Umbria IGT, 'San Valentino', 2006
Truth be told, I'm a little disappointed in this as I loved it upon release. The beautiful rich and lovely fruit it had upon youth has been replaced by tired fruit, sharp with prickles and broken glass bits. Not very charming. This is about my umteenth disappointment with Bea in the last year and I think I will institute a new startegy vis-a-vis his wines: after i drink up my current stash, I am only going to purchase new releases as I want them, because cellaring them has been so painful. Not sure about the pure sagrantino, as I haven't had that yet, but this is applying to the mixed reds and the whites. My pocketbook cannot take it anymore. Note that I would rate this wine a B-B-, whereas when it first came out I would have given it an A-. Sad.

Calera, Pinot Noir, Mt. Harlan, 'Reed Vineyard', 2005
Cherry and oak, in a light vein, despite the highish alcohol. Not bad, but i probably wouldn't want a case or another bottle of it in my cellar.

Baron Widmann, Südtiroler, Vernatsch, 2010
There's a slight foxiness to the nose, like a Finger Lakes hybrid, an iodine/medicinal flavor to the light alpine florals and crunchy red fruits. Good, but I had a better year before from the early 2000's (perhaps 2003 or 2004?). B+

Philippe Alliet, Chinon, 'vieilles vignes', 2006
Funky brett and damp washcloth aromas, with old plum and applesauce. Apple and crabapple sauce with a funky finish in the mouth, although a little more polish than what the nose alone would suggest. This is ready-to-go at present, very smooth. No need to sit on this. 13% B+

Digioia-Royer, Bourgogne, 2008
Cranberry and acidic wash on the fairly neutral nose. Deep cranberry and pomegranate that needs time to soften the harsh bite. This is tough right now, but there seems to be enough material behind the strong acidic structure that short term cellaring could correct. Aspirin finish, and an almost granitic austerity. B I hope other 2008's have a little more charm/stuffing than this one so I don't feel lie a sucker for buying into the 2008 red Burgundy hype machine.
 
originally posted by MarkS:

Huet, Vouvray, 'le Haut Lieu', demi sec, 2002
burnt sugar, more so on the palate than in the nose.

To me this is a worrisome sign as until now, I'd only experienced it and seen others comment on it in the Le Mont.
 
Brad is going to be Kevin Spacey in 'Margin Call'. "Gotta get rid of all the chenin by 10:30."

Mark S. "You're panicking. You'll kill the market."

Brad: "If you're first out the door, it's not called panicking."
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by MarkS:
Paolo Bea, Rosso Umbria IGT, 'San Valentino', 2006
...This is about my umteenth disappointment with Bea in the last year...
How much more of this do you have?

Jeff, 1 more of the IGT, but a mixed assortment of the different Montefalco Rosso's. To me, the second bottles I've been tasting have all come across as so much more advanced than the first ones, which I universally adored. To me this is troubling, as I thought the potential for developing (or at least 'keeping') would be longing than I estimated.
 
Digioia-Royer, Bourgogne, 2008
Cranberry and acidic wash on the fairly neutral nose. Deep cranberry and pomegranate that needs time to soften the harsh bite. This is tough right now, but there seems to be enough material behind the strong acidic structure that short term cellaring could correct. Aspirin finish, and an almost granitic austerity. B I hope other 2008's have a little more charm/stuffing than this one so I don't feel lie a sucker for buying into the 2008 red Burgundy hype machine.

If it makes you feel any better this was the only 2008 red Burgundy I've had that I didn't like. The 2009 isn't any better though I found it leaden rather than harsh.

In general though I don't think the Bourgogne level is the place to look in 2008.
 
Is Bourgogne really the level to look at in any vintage, with the current prices (and I write this as a shill)?
 
originally posted by Yixin:
Is Bourgogne really the level to look at in any vintage, with the current prices (and I write this as a shill)?

I usually like Marechale and Mongeard Mugeneret. Lafarge can be good (the 2009 was fine though certainly not worth the price). But by and large I agree with you.
 
Lafarge is almost always good at the level, because of his holdings. And Chevillon's Passetoutgrains, of course. But do I really want to drink Sylvie Esmonin Bourgogne? Or Roty? Or Ponsot?

Give me Cuvée Rudy K instead (okay, poor joke).
 
originally posted by Yixin:
But do I really want to drink Ponsot [Bourgogne}?

Have you ever tried Ponsot's Bourgogne? It's from the old Leni Volpato estate in Chambolle, which Ponsot bought some years ago, and it produces extremely good wine, maybe the best Bourgogne I know -- not surprisingly since Volpato's Bourgogne used to be a real insider's wine. Yeah, it's not the Clos de la Roche or Clos Saint-Denis, but it costs 1/12th the price or less.

There's plenty of excellent Bourgogne out there, IMO. The problem is that the prices for some of them is getting rather high; fortunately, that's not the case for all of them (yet).
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
originally posted by Yixin:
But do I really want to drink Ponsot [Bourgogne}?

Have you ever tried Ponsot's Bourgogne? It's from the old Leni Volpato estate in Chambolle, which Ponsot bought some years ago, and it produces extremely good wine, maybe the best Bourgogne I know -- not surprisingly since Volpato's Bourgogne used to be a real insider's wine. Yeah, it's not the Clos de la Roche or Clos Saint-Denis, but it costs 1/12th the price or less.

There's plenty of excellent Bourgogne out there, IMO. The problem is that the prices for some of them is getting rather high; fortunately, that's not the case for all of them (yet).

Yes, multiple vintages, multiple times. Dude was just in town as well.
 
originally posted by Yixin:
Lafarge is almost always good at the level, because of his holdings. ...

An 02 Lafarge bourgogne drank really beautifully late last summer, just starting to really open up, like a good villages Volnay the second day.

Similarly, an 02 Burguet Pince Vins a month ago was rich, deep, and delicious; startling for a regional.

Recent 02 Bachelet Bougogne has been sterner, needing food to enjoy.
 
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