TN: Occupy Spoof (Mar 17, 2012)

J

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
St Patrick's Day in NYC. Irish cops (yes, we still have them!), a big parade, green beer, lots of blarney and bad leprechaun jokes.

But not in Tribeca.

In Tribeca, things are fairly quiet. The only green thing in sight is the bunch of mixed balloons outside the toy store on the corner.

Tribeca also plays host to the Dressner Attack -- 11th Annual -- at Chambers Street Wines in NYC.

First, a bunch of my walk-about tasting notes (with an approximation of my insane but very quick system of plusses and minuses) and then some tidbits and lessons learned:

Dom de la Pepiere
+ 2010 "Les Gras Moutons"
++ 2010 "Clos des Briords"
2009 "Clisson"

Dom du Closel
2010 "La Jalousie"
+ 2007 "Clos Papillon"

F. Pinon
+ 2009 "Tradition"
++ 2009 "Silex"
+ NV Brut Non-Dose
2005 "Cuvee Botrytis"

Puzelat / Tue-Boeuf
2011 Touraine Sauvignon Blanc
2010 "Le Brin de Chevre"
+ 2011 "Le Telquel"
2010 Touraine Pinot Noir
+ 2010 "In Cot We Trust"

Dom. Filliatreau
+ 2010 "La Grande Vignolle"

Dom. Baudry
++ 2010 "Les Granges"
++ 2010 "Les Grezeaux"
+++ 2009 "La Croix Boissee"

Terres Dorees
++ 2010 "l'Ancien"
+ 2010 Blanc
2010 Cote de Brouilly
+++ 2010 Morgon

Dom. G. Descombes
+ 2010 Regnie
++ 2010 Morgon
++ 2009 Morgon VV

Dom. Desvignes
+ 2010 "La Voute St Vincent"
++ 2010 Morgon Javernieres

Coudert Pere et Fils
+ 2010 "Clos de la Roilette"
+++ 2010 "Cuvee Tardive"

Eric Texier
+ 2010 Cotes du Rhone Rouge
+ 2010 "La Croix"
++ 2009 "Brezeme"
2009 "Seguret"

Radikon
+ 2005 "Oslavje"
+ 2005 Ribolla Gialla
+ 2005 "Jakot"

V. Bera e Figli
2010 "Arcese"
+ 2009 "Ronco Malo"
+ 2010 "Canelli"

Montesecondo
2010 Rosso Toscana
++ 2009 Chianti Classico

Guttarolo
++ 2007 Gioia del Colle Primitivo
+ 2007 "Antello"
+ 2009 "Amphora"

Rendardat-Fache
2011 Bugey-Cerdon

Mauro Vergano
+++ Chinato Nebbiolo

Now, for some tidbits and lessons learned:

1. This is a much smaller event than last year. Many wine-makers did not attend (off the top of my head I note the absences of Occhipinti, Maule,, Peillot, Joao, De Moor, Chidaine, Roagna).

2. Pinon is going to change the name of "Cuvee Tradition" to "Trois Argiles". I think he said this matches what he does for France and, anyway, makes more sense as he will now call-out the two terroirs on their respective labels. He also commented that I should wait 3-5 years before drinking the Brut Non-Dose.

3. Texier's CdR wine is not only 1* lighter this year but it is also, for the first time, made from 100% fruit from the St Julien vineyard. It is definitely dancing better.

4. Do not spurn Don Rice. The night before the flight to the US, Mathieu Baudry began suffering a stunningly miserable case of la grippe and so Mme. Baudry (and a cousin) worked the table without him.
 
Louis/Dressner no longer imports Chidaine, to my knowledge on the other side of the globe.

What's the maximum number of + a wine can get?
 
Half as many wines this year. No Mosse, Causse Marines, Lubbe, Cascina degli Ulivi, Tavjin, Lemasson, Foradori. Last year's list didn't have Roagna or Maule listed.
 
Y: Max plusses is 3.

O: There are signs for wishy-washy and negative but they don't appear this time.

I: I've had Clisson three times and it has shown differently each time. I think of this as no more than an under-performing bottle. I'm still buying.

T: Thanks.
 
Thank you for writing this up. Where are the minuses ? I need my controversy.

I though this Magnum of Clisson showed much better than the bottle we had in the cellar a week earlier, although that bottle performed a minor miracle the next day at my house.

With the full understanding that a pinch of brett may be a turn off for perpetual n00bs, I would gladly make Puzelat Pinot Noir my house red until September. Delightful young SB at the same address.

Papillon was a 2007, I believe. But I preferred 2010 Jalousie.

Brun Cote de Brouilly requires further analysis, got a bottle in the queue for the weekend. It showed little, but in a very intriguing sort of way.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

2. Pinon is going to change the name of "Cuvee Tradition" to "Trois Argiles". I think he said this matches what he does for France and, anyway, makes more sense as he will now call-out the two terroirs on their respective labels.
Click to expand...

Attentive readers may recallsomething about this a while back.
 
originally posted by .sasha:
Thank you for writing this up. Where are the minuses ? I need my controversy.
Click to expand...
Posted on the secret board, as you asked.

I though this Magnum of Clisson showed much better than the bottle we had in the cellar a week earlier, although that bottle performed a minor miracle the next day at my house.
Click to expand...
It drank great on Feb 2, I guess I liked the cellar bottle better than you did, and, by Mar 17, the bottle was still very primary but kinda quiet.

Papillon was a 2007, I believe. But I preferred 2010 Jalousie.
Click to expand...
Thank you.

Brun Cote de Brouilly requires further analysis, got a bottle in the queue for the weekend. It showed little, but in a very intriguing sort of way.
Click to expand...
I found this wine very frustrating. In most vintages I like it quite a bit. And, clearly, the 2010 vintage is a-ringing my bells. But not the CdB, and for the second year in a row. Has JP changed something?

-----

While we're on the subject of MIA... Brun sent wines but did not attend in person, and Baudry did not bring the rose.
 
The '10 CDR is indeed 100% Saint Julien but is made of 80% of the northernmost grenache grown in the Rhone and about 20% of mostly Clairette,and a tiny bit of grenache blanc and marsanne.
 
originally posted by Brézème:
The '10 CDR is indeed 100% Saint Julien but is made of 80% of the northernmost grenache grown in the Rhone and about 20% of mostly Clairette,and a tiny bit of grenache blanc and marsanne.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the clarification (and sorry about getting it wrong at the table).
 
originally posted by Brian C:
That Vergano is really lovely stuff.
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Yes, it is. I reported only on the nebbiolo-based chinato because that was the only one I tasted that day; I have had all the others before.
 
Does Vergano farm vineyards, buy grapes to vinify, or buy wines to make their chinati (correct plural)? I'm pretty ignorant of the process. (edit: I know at least the Grignolino comes from Tavijn. Curious about the nebbiolo.)
 
You guys've got a quit referring to the secret board. It is so middle school. Can I get in? Can I get in?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Brian C:
That Vergano is really lovely stuff.
Click to expand...
Yes, it is. I reported only on the nebbiolo-based chinato because that was the only one I tasted that day; I have had all the others before.
Click to expand...
Including the new bianco Vermouth?

I preferred the 2010 Jalousie both to the Papillon and a 2010 Jalousie tasted several weeks earlier.

Also prefered the Texier 2010 La Croix (St Joseph) this weekend versus at the tasting, but that may have been due to the warmth of the cellar at the LDM tasting and a lack of air.
 
Yes, I've already drunk my way through a bottle of the new bianco vermouth. It follows along Mauro's predilection for fresh, lively herbs on a wine base that still has some cut. If it were a bit stronger you'd say it was in the Campari line of things but it isn't quite that vegetally potent or straight-forward.

The nebbiolo for the chinato comes from Barbaresco.

He buys wine. See more.
 
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