TN: The supper club dines at Sarah's- Good times and Burgundy, Piedmont, Bordeaux and Germany.

Brad Kane

Brad Kane
Our monthly supper club group got together yesterday for another evening of fun. Sarah Kirschbaum played host and did a wonderful job in the kitchen, serving up a feast of tomato and caramelized onion soup with asiago croutons, a butternut squash galette with a balsamic reduction, braised crisped duck legs with creamy polenta and a black pepper and clove custard with caramel sauce and sea salt for dessert. As always, a great time was had by all.

2005 Domaine William Fèvre- Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru
Fairly tight with not a lot going on aromatically and almost tannic structure on the palate. Good fruit levels, with citrus, stone fruits and apples rounded out by mineral and floral flavors. Shows some of the vintages fatness and the alcohol sticks out a little on the finish. The wood is integrated, though. B+.

2001 Domaine Weinbach- Riesling Cuvée Ste. Catherine - France, Alsace, Alsace AOC
Heat damaged. NR (flawed)

1971 Produttori del Barbaresco- Barbaresco - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Corked and from magnum. NR (flawed)

1995 Egon Müller- Scharzhofberger Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Showed more maturity on the nose and in its golden color than it did on the palate. Aromatically it exhibits an aged stone fruit profile with some petrol notes kicking in, but the fruit was brighter in the mouth and there was a nice level of acidity that still had just a trace of spritz from the get go that gave the wine nice vitality. More in the classic stone fruit realm with the addition of some tropical fruit flavors and nice minerality. The wine still shows plenty of sweetness, but the balance is just fine. My WOTN. Solid A-.

2006 Giuseppe Rinaldi- Nebbiolo Langhe - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
Nose of the night for sure. Beautiful and fragrant cherry and red plum aromas with licorice and mineral notes. The fruit has wonderful purity and focus to it with the minerals providing nice crunch. The fruit isn't as lush on the palate as the nose would suggest it would be, but there's certainly no shortage. Chewy and still showing a tough structure, it was a perfect match with the braised duck leg as the fat from the duck and the cream from the polenta helped cut the tannins while the acidity helped cut through the richness of the dish. A-.

1996 Alain Hudelot-Noellat- Richebourg - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Richebourg Grand Cru
Like the Rinaldi Nebbiolo, this had a wonderful nose of bright and sweet red cherries. On the palate, however, the wine is still pretty shut down. Given how the nose was going like gangbusters, I expected the wine to be a lot more expressive than it was. There's a solid core of fruit, but the structure really has it clamped down hard and there's still some spicy wood that needs to integrate more thoroughly. I expect it will get better with some more cellar time. A-/B+.

1983 Ch“teau Cos d'Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Quite a lot of Brett on the nose from the get go with a strong green pepper streak. Thankfully, much of the Brett blew off and some cherry aromas and wet earth came up to help balance out all that green pepper. On the palate, fully mature, if not a little past peak and showing a few faults here and there. The green pepper on the nose turns more herbal in character on the palate, but it's supported by cherry, earth and leather flavors. Mid-weight and rather dry with maybe a hole or two in the middle and a touch austere on the finish. Probably best consumed with food at this point and I'd start to drink up. Low B+.

Some pictures from the evening.

Sarah prepares the butternut squash galette.

Brushing with egg wash.

Out of the oven.

Soup on the stove.

Duck legs seared and ready for braising.

Salt designed to make me cringe.

Tomato and caramelized onion soup with asiago crostini.

Butternut squash galette with balsamic reduction.

Braised crisped duck legs with creamy polenta.

Black pepper and clove custard with caramel sauce and sea salt.
 
Do you think you can extrapolate from the '96 Richebourg to the '96 Vosne 1er crus (Malconsorts, Suchots, Beaumonts) from Hudelot Noellat? Any experience with these wines recently, or really at all?
 
originally posted by maureen:
so was that duck dish the mark bitman recipe in the times a few weeks ago? How was it?

It was indeed that recipe, although she said she played around with it and swapped out the chicken stock for duck stock, added thyme a bay leaf and some red wine to it and rubbed the duck legs with a little coriander and allspice. We actually had a discussion about the minimalist recipes and while we like them, we sometimes find them, well, too minimal.
 
originally posted by Michael Lewis:
Do you think you can extrapolate from the '96 Richebourg to the '96 Vosne 1er crus (Malconsorts, Suchots, Beaumonts) from Hudelot Noellat? Any experience with these wines recently, or really at all?

Sorry, I don't recall ever having those from '96. I know I've had the producer a few times, but I don't know if I took notes on those bottles.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by maureen:
so was that duck dish the mark bitman recipe in the times a few weeks ago? How was it?

It was indeed that recipe, although she said she played around with it and swapped out the chicken stock for duck stock, added thyme a bay leaf and some red wine to it and rubbed the duck legs with a little coriander and allspice. We actually had a discussion about the minimalist recipes and while we like them, we sometimes find them, well, too minimal.

Bittman's slow roast duck legs recipe is a good simple substitute for the hassle of making true confit.

That galette looks brilliant. Any chance of getting a recipe?
 
Ditto on the galette. Grated squash and ... red bell peppers, caramelized onions, and ... capers? Sauteed?

Nice photos, Brad, and notes, with our without your own lexicon. Thanks.
 
It was grated squash, roasted red peppers and kalamata olives and I know she used a little duck fat in the dough. I'll see if I can coax a recipe out of her.
 
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