A Pair of Charvins in the Nacht

Oswaldo Costa

Oswaldo Costa
2008 Domaine Charvin Côtes-du-Rhône 14.0%
Decanted four hours on the expectation of lingering tightness. Remained somewhat closed in the glass, showing raspberries and underbrush (Marcia found olives). Good density, almost chewy. Fine tannins, clear acidity, unobtrusive alcohol, with a faint lactic note on the finish. Classy; no trace of the rusticity associated with CdR. Definitely needs another fistful of years.

2004 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape 14.5%
Decanted one hour on the expectation of borderline readiness. Cherry, cloves, and thyme; the thyme gets stronger with time. Before food, alcohol on the hot side, remains a hottie even after. Clear and present acidity feels real. Nice bitterness in the mid-palate, no sense of wood. Aroma kept getting lovelier, seemed to outclass mouth; could have benefited from nose to nose resuscitation. Adolescent, but cruisin' the 'hood, scanning the horizon, open for business.
 
These are good wines I've had a number of times. I love charvin's sense of texture and purity.
 
No sense of wood because there is no wood. Charvin vinifies only in cuves. I'm not surprised that the CdR was closed. It will open back up faster than you imagine, if past vintages are any indication.
 
originally posted by Sharon Bowman:
Because pab said so.
Because the winemaker said so.
Grenache is an oxydativ cépage and Laurent Charvin use very low sulfur.
Best regards
pierre-alain
 
It's common in CdP to speak against decanting, for the reason Pierre-alain gives. And I have heard Laurent say this as well. The guy who tends the storefront Pegau has in the town of CdP says it as well. My experience, however, does not support the claim. Although I don't decant automatically, I have decanted wines from the area with some regularity and with some success. Restaurants in the area also do use decanters.

And I don't think Oswaldo's results can be explained by excessive oxidation.
 
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