Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jay, Jeff, Bob Semon, The PBLs (Kirk, Michael, David)
In another thread Bob Semon suggested that he could bring a bottle of the wine-with-no-birthright on his next trip to NYC. This was an enticement that several Disorderlies could not resist, and thus was born a 'grand cru' sangiovese jeebus.
Never you mind that Molettieri does not raise, bottle, or sell sangiovese-based wine.
Kirk arranges for an excellent table at Mas (La Grillade) where he is apparently known to the wine director, who is known as Bender.
Jay Miller, ever the punctual creature, arrives at 7:00pm for the 7:30pm reservation. Nowadays it takes him at least a half hour to work his "You're late!" dudgeon up to a full roar so he likes to get a jump on it.
The rest of us filter in, settle down, and commence.
Pierre Peters 04 Champagne Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Cuvee Speciale "Les Chetillons" - a lagniappe from the restaurant (gee, they like us!): great fruit, savory toasted buttered crumbs, silky, spicy, moderately yeasty, with air this shows more and more chalk, yum
F. X. Pichler 2002 Riesling Smaragd Loibner Steinertal - after much sniffing and swirling and waiting... it's corked
The restaurant commences food service with an amuse of a grilled shrimp served with roasted pepper and aioli, followed by the radish and pesto crostini. The flavors are crisp and bright. The grilling is done delicately, providing a bit of snap to the food without excessive charring, and the smoke highlights the flavors rather than masks them.
Bregeon 2005 Muscadet Reserve - brine and chalk and yellow fruit, a bit dense and less crystal-pure than Pepiere perhaps; wonderful with the oysters
The menu is heavy on ocean foods and we get a beautiful pair of dishes. On little plates we receive grilled tiny soft-shell crabs (no breading) served on bok choy and a splash of crab bisque. On several huge plates we are served Island Creek oysters that have been opened, had butter and herbs inserted, then re-closed and grilled. Outstanding.
a glass of sciacarella - David spies this on the BTG list and orders one. He has had this Corsican wine before and this one is just as he remembers it: vividly, potently, penetratingly, hugely flowery wine with a wisp of honey. Not for everyone and not for every meal but very interesting.
F. Rinaldi 1961 Barolo - so dark!, camphor, fresh mushrooms, old smoke; the palate starts out a bit metallic but that dissolves in a few minutes into rose petals; beautiful
Barolo and Salad, of course. Our little plates are filled with whole leaves of grilled romaine lettuce dressed piquantly. The platters now come out with chunks of artichoke and hedgehog mushrooms.
Soldera 1999 Brunello di Montalcino - rich and glyceral, warm red fruit and baby powder (someone suggests "clean diaper"), well-balanced acidity, what a treat
Uccelliera 1995 Brunello di Montalcino - a little less vivid than the Soldera, more old-lady's handkerchief but the fruit deepens with air
Fuligni 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - flowers and black plums, good thrust and actually somewhat grippy tannins still
The Fowl Plate: chunks of smoked chicken breast strewn with pieces of squab. As with all the other dishes, the smoke is a participatory seasoning that brings out the flavors.
Montevertine 1996 IGT "Pergole Torte" - zing! bright cherry, pure, delicious, could still use time, a great wine
Montevertine 1990 IGT "Pergole Torte" - clearly akin to the last bottle this is a bit red-fruitier and the acid is noticeably softer, drink up (if this bottle is indicative)
Biondi-Santi 1981 Brunello di Montalcino - Burgundian texture (which is lovely but a bit light in the Tuscan context), delightful with the mushrooms
Biondi-Santi 1988 Brunello di Montalcino - also pretty wine, juicy, a bit milder than its elder brother, an underperformer in this setting but that's only because it is so easy to lose all sense of proportion here
Caparzo 1988 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - this has the by-now familiar flavor profile and it is quite a bit more vigorous than the other '88
Molettieri 1988 Taurasi Riserva "Cinque Querce" - Behold ye the Bottle That Does Not Exist; alas, it is a little tired and shows a little too much VA but it is definitely aglianico in a mid-weight style
Amidst all this, we are served sliced leg of lamb with Hen of the Woods mushrooms while the table platters are heaped with roast polenta and shiitakes. Bob and I have been eagerly awaiting the Hens but he finds the smoke a little obtrusive on the delicate shroom.
Tenuta Uccellina (NV?) VdT Rosso Regio, Rosso Passito (di Sangiovese) - lot L2198; only a little bit sweet; my notes are not much help anymore... it may be that I've consumed more wine this evening than is recommended for good-quality writing
Campi Flegrei 1997 Piedirosso Passito - much sweeter but with good balance, plummy, more obviously a dessert wine
There was a cheese course but I did not note which cheeses.
A wonderful evening and wonderful company. Big props to Bender and all the staff at Mas LG who treated us so kindly.
Yes, and Bob invites all of WD to come visit him soon (he has so much wine to move).
In another thread Bob Semon suggested that he could bring a bottle of the wine-with-no-birthright on his next trip to NYC. This was an enticement that several Disorderlies could not resist, and thus was born a 'grand cru' sangiovese jeebus.
Never you mind that Molettieri does not raise, bottle, or sell sangiovese-based wine.
Kirk arranges for an excellent table at Mas (La Grillade) where he is apparently known to the wine director, who is known as Bender.
Jay Miller, ever the punctual creature, arrives at 7:00pm for the 7:30pm reservation. Nowadays it takes him at least a half hour to work his "You're late!" dudgeon up to a full roar so he likes to get a jump on it.
The rest of us filter in, settle down, and commence.
Pierre Peters 04 Champagne Brut, Blanc de Blancs, Cuvee Speciale "Les Chetillons" - a lagniappe from the restaurant (gee, they like us!): great fruit, savory toasted buttered crumbs, silky, spicy, moderately yeasty, with air this shows more and more chalk, yum
F. X. Pichler 2002 Riesling Smaragd Loibner Steinertal - after much sniffing and swirling and waiting... it's corked
The restaurant commences food service with an amuse of a grilled shrimp served with roasted pepper and aioli, followed by the radish and pesto crostini. The flavors are crisp and bright. The grilling is done delicately, providing a bit of snap to the food without excessive charring, and the smoke highlights the flavors rather than masks them.
Bregeon 2005 Muscadet Reserve - brine and chalk and yellow fruit, a bit dense and less crystal-pure than Pepiere perhaps; wonderful with the oysters
The menu is heavy on ocean foods and we get a beautiful pair of dishes. On little plates we receive grilled tiny soft-shell crabs (no breading) served on bok choy and a splash of crab bisque. On several huge plates we are served Island Creek oysters that have been opened, had butter and herbs inserted, then re-closed and grilled. Outstanding.
a glass of sciacarella - David spies this on the BTG list and orders one. He has had this Corsican wine before and this one is just as he remembers it: vividly, potently, penetratingly, hugely flowery wine with a wisp of honey. Not for everyone and not for every meal but very interesting.
F. Rinaldi 1961 Barolo - so dark!, camphor, fresh mushrooms, old smoke; the palate starts out a bit metallic but that dissolves in a few minutes into rose petals; beautiful
Barolo and Salad, of course. Our little plates are filled with whole leaves of grilled romaine lettuce dressed piquantly. The platters now come out with chunks of artichoke and hedgehog mushrooms.
Soldera 1999 Brunello di Montalcino - rich and glyceral, warm red fruit and baby powder (someone suggests "clean diaper"), well-balanced acidity, what a treat
Uccelliera 1995 Brunello di Montalcino - a little less vivid than the Soldera, more old-lady's handkerchief but the fruit deepens with air
Fuligni 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - flowers and black plums, good thrust and actually somewhat grippy tannins still
The Fowl Plate: chunks of smoked chicken breast strewn with pieces of squab. As with all the other dishes, the smoke is a participatory seasoning that brings out the flavors.
Montevertine 1996 IGT "Pergole Torte" - zing! bright cherry, pure, delicious, could still use time, a great wine
Montevertine 1990 IGT "Pergole Torte" - clearly akin to the last bottle this is a bit red-fruitier and the acid is noticeably softer, drink up (if this bottle is indicative)
Biondi-Santi 1981 Brunello di Montalcino - Burgundian texture (which is lovely but a bit light in the Tuscan context), delightful with the mushrooms
Biondi-Santi 1988 Brunello di Montalcino - also pretty wine, juicy, a bit milder than its elder brother, an underperformer in this setting but that's only because it is so easy to lose all sense of proportion here
Caparzo 1988 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva - this has the by-now familiar flavor profile and it is quite a bit more vigorous than the other '88
Molettieri 1988 Taurasi Riserva "Cinque Querce" - Behold ye the Bottle That Does Not Exist; alas, it is a little tired and shows a little too much VA but it is definitely aglianico in a mid-weight style
Amidst all this, we are served sliced leg of lamb with Hen of the Woods mushrooms while the table platters are heaped with roast polenta and shiitakes. Bob and I have been eagerly awaiting the Hens but he finds the smoke a little obtrusive on the delicate shroom.
Tenuta Uccellina (NV?) VdT Rosso Regio, Rosso Passito (di Sangiovese) - lot L2198; only a little bit sweet; my notes are not much help anymore... it may be that I've consumed more wine this evening than is recommended for good-quality writing
Campi Flegrei 1997 Piedirosso Passito - much sweeter but with good balance, plummy, more obviously a dessert wine
There was a cheese course but I did not note which cheeses.
A wonderful evening and wonderful company. Big props to Bender and all the staff at Mas LG who treated us so kindly.
Yes, and Bob invites all of WD to come visit him soon (he has so much wine to move).