Vouvray is wonderful at its peak but it can be frustrating to open not knowing whether it will be showing at its best. Here are three recent experiences, the first from this January where I found that a Vouvray 2008 sec from Jacky Blot was past an early peak, the second this month when a 2005 sec from Huet seemed to be in a relatively dull phase and the third from last September when a 1996 sec from Huet was in a state of mature perfection.
Vouvray sec Clos de la Bretonnière 2008 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Jacky Blot Alc.13%.
A few months ago I wrote (Spring 2011)
I find it hard to believe that this Vouvray will ever be better than it was last night.
C: Quite pale yellow.
N: Brightly expressive with fine notes of quince, apple, pear, minerals and a dab of dry honey.
P: Very dry, brightly focussed, medium/light bodied, full of stylish nerve and tension with enough underlying roundness (gras) to support its vibrant fruit and aromas, grainy minerals, crisp acidity and firm finish. There was just a hint of rawness on the finish which will surely disappear with evolution, but so will some of the vibrancy and tension which makes me unsure whether that evolution will be positive overall; 17/20 now.
On the evidence on last week’s bottle, it has already lost something; not yet the vibrancy and tension but some of the underlying roundness (gras) and also, more positively, that hint of rawness. This, however, made the wine more steely losing some charm. Still fine, though, and it will be fascinating to see how the remaining bottles evolve over the years if I can keep my hands off them; 16.5/20. (January 2012)
Vouvray Le Haut Lieu sec 2005 - Domaine Huet - Alc.13% - (c.19 EUR for 2010)
I should have resisted the temptation to open this bottle, not because it was a mediocre wine but because I think that it will be far more complex and expressive a few years down the road. The aromas on the nose were quite discreet with wax notes and touches of pear and quince. The palate was medium full and by no means bone dry with a distinctly sweet touch on the long finish but as usual with Huet this was balanced by some nice lively acidity and mineral notes. The overall impression was richer than Huet Vouvray dry in most vintages and fruit and mineral flavours were still quite primary, albeit attractive. I am confident that a lot more complexity will emerge down the road; 16/20 now with +++ potential.
PS 24 hours later.
Often an opened bottle of Vouvray can benefit from 24 hours in the fridge but this one didn't. The lively acidity had become duller and the overall effect was more bland. I begin to have doubts whether this Haut-Lieu 05 will age as well as I first thought. (May 2012)
Vouvray Le Mont sec 1996 Huet Alc.12%. The colour was deepening and the nose had a roundness and depth backing up the aromas of wax, quince, honey and minerals which hinted at a sweeter wine that the palate revealed. Definitely dry, but perhaps not bone dry, medium/full bodied, rich, deep and long with lively mouth-watering acidity and incredibly complex flavours and aromas beautifully focussed into a seamless whole. It compelled emptying the bottle in the search of ever more subtlety. A candidate for my wine of the year to date; 18.5/20. (Sept 2011)
Before concluding that 15+ years will show Huet’s Vouvray sec off to perfection, I should add that my 1995s have never yet really sung (and perhaps never will ?).
Vouvray sec Clos de la Bretonnière 2008 Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Jacky Blot Alc.13%.
A few months ago I wrote (Spring 2011)
I find it hard to believe that this Vouvray will ever be better than it was last night.
C: Quite pale yellow.
N: Brightly expressive with fine notes of quince, apple, pear, minerals and a dab of dry honey.
P: Very dry, brightly focussed, medium/light bodied, full of stylish nerve and tension with enough underlying roundness (gras) to support its vibrant fruit and aromas, grainy minerals, crisp acidity and firm finish. There was just a hint of rawness on the finish which will surely disappear with evolution, but so will some of the vibrancy and tension which makes me unsure whether that evolution will be positive overall; 17/20 now.
On the evidence on last week’s bottle, it has already lost something; not yet the vibrancy and tension but some of the underlying roundness (gras) and also, more positively, that hint of rawness. This, however, made the wine more steely losing some charm. Still fine, though, and it will be fascinating to see how the remaining bottles evolve over the years if I can keep my hands off them; 16.5/20. (January 2012)
Vouvray Le Haut Lieu sec 2005 - Domaine Huet - Alc.13% - (c.19 EUR for 2010)
I should have resisted the temptation to open this bottle, not because it was a mediocre wine but because I think that it will be far more complex and expressive a few years down the road. The aromas on the nose were quite discreet with wax notes and touches of pear and quince. The palate was medium full and by no means bone dry with a distinctly sweet touch on the long finish but as usual with Huet this was balanced by some nice lively acidity and mineral notes. The overall impression was richer than Huet Vouvray dry in most vintages and fruit and mineral flavours were still quite primary, albeit attractive. I am confident that a lot more complexity will emerge down the road; 16/20 now with +++ potential.
PS 24 hours later.
Often an opened bottle of Vouvray can benefit from 24 hours in the fridge but this one didn't. The lively acidity had become duller and the overall effect was more bland. I begin to have doubts whether this Haut-Lieu 05 will age as well as I first thought. (May 2012)
Vouvray Le Mont sec 1996 Huet Alc.12%. The colour was deepening and the nose had a roundness and depth backing up the aromas of wax, quince, honey and minerals which hinted at a sweeter wine that the palate revealed. Definitely dry, but perhaps not bone dry, medium/full bodied, rich, deep and long with lively mouth-watering acidity and incredibly complex flavours and aromas beautifully focussed into a seamless whole. It compelled emptying the bottle in the search of ever more subtlety. A candidate for my wine of the year to date; 18.5/20. (Sept 2011)
Before concluding that 15+ years will show Huet’s Vouvray sec off to perfection, I should add that my 1995s have never yet really sung (and perhaps never will ?).