With a dinner of roast chicken, I opened a bottle of 1991 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Beze which proved to be corked just enough to spoil any enjoyment that might be obtained therefrom. Not to be deterred, back down to the cellar for another bottle: the 2002 Maurice Ècard Savigny-les-Beaune "Les Narbantons", which fulfilled all expectations. Round, red-fruited with lots of umami overlaying it (beef blood, soy sauce, seaweed) and a graphite note too. It was lovely from first drop to last and didn't change much but seemed close to fully mature for my tastes (coming as it did from a passively cooled cellar). I can't say that I really understood much about Burgundy when I bought this wine, but it has surpassed any expectations that I may have had for it on the day of its purchase. Profound? Nah. Satisfying and immensely enjoyable? You'd better believe it.
Mark Lipton
Mark Lipton