A New Kid in Town (Pfalz)

Gregg G

Gregg Greenbaum
Specifically, Weingut Von Winning. Relatively new to the US market, they are a Thiese selection. I've never tasted anything from Germany like these wines. They employ a minimal intervention in the vineyard and in the winery. The vineyards are farmed with biodynamic and organic practices in mind. Sulfur is used in the vineyard, but copper is eschewed. Ambient yeast with spontaneous fermentation is practiced. SO2 additions are quite conservative for German Riesling at around 130ppm. Perhaps the most striking aspect of the vinification philosophy is the use of oak barrels of various ages and sizes, both for fermentation and aging. Most of the barrels are 2 to 4 yrs in age. I should mention there is another brand associated to Von Winning, Dr. Deinhard. The Dr. Deinhard wines are made in the familiar way with stainless steel fermenting and aging and cultured yeast additions.

I tasted through the wines and will add my notes later on, but I wanted to get this up and see if anyone has tasted these wines and their impressions. The Von Winning wines were very singular with a spine of salinity in almost each wine I sampled. The soils of Pfalz vineyards bottled by the winery are mostly red and brown sandstone. Some of the vineyards have portions of limestone and I believe one had slate mixed with sandstone. Several of the wines are Grosses Gewachs. All the wines I tried were single vineyard. These are expensive, but when you see the amount of attention they apply, the cost is somewhat justified. Curious on others thoughts.
 
Greg -- I agree with you that they are excellent wines (the holdings are fantastic and the facilities, which I visited last year, are excellent). But they're hardly new here. Terry added the Dr. Deinhard wines to his portfolio beginning with the 2002 vintage (and, of course, they had a much longer history in the US before then). The von Winning label was not being used at that time -- it came in only after sale of the Deinhard estate, which was in 2007, IIRC. The von Winning line has been outstanding since its introduction some years ago.
 
Thanks Claude. That makes sense, as Deinhard seemd familiar, but Von Winning didn't. I wonder if they will find a share of the market at their respective price points? BTW-I want to assume you tried the Pinot Noir. Can you offer a comment on it as I didn't see it at the tasting?
 
Greg -- I had the 2008 and 2009 Pinot Noirs (three of each) at the estate last September and liked all of them with a slight preference for 2009s. The wines have good balance and purity and drink well now, but should still improve. New wood is 40% and 50% for the two wines that I wrote it down, but it really doesn't show on the wines (they spend two years in the cask before bottling). The wines (at least the 2009s, for which I noted it) were bottled unfiltered.

The night before I visited last September, someone had taken a harvesting machine through the Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad vineyard and stolen all of von Winning's 2010 Pinot Noir from that vineyard.
 
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
The night before I visited last September, someone had taken a harvesting machine through the Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad vineyard and stolen all of von Winning's 2010 Pinot Noir from that vineyard.
That's terrible. What can the thieves do with a couple tons of 'hot' grapes?
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
The night before I visited last September, someone had taken a harvesting machine through the Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad vineyard and stolen all of von Winning's 2010 Pinot Noir from that vineyard.
That's terrible. What can the thieves do with a couple tons of 'hot' grapes?

Sell to Gallo?
 
originally posted by Oswaldo Costa:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:
originally posted by Claude Kolm:
The night before I visited last September, someone had taken a harvesting machine through the Ruppertsberg Reiterpfad vineyard and stolen all of von Winning's 2010 Pinot Noir from that vineyard.
That's terrible. What can the thieves do with a couple tons of 'hot' grapes?

Sell to Gallo?
A couple tons of '78 DRC?
 
BTW, I should add that I saw someplace on the internet that the von Winning wines are all fermented/raised in new oak casks. I double checked with Andreas Hutwohl, the winemaker, at the tasting this week (because that's not what my notes indicated) and it's utter BS. There is one wine, Forster Ungeheuer "500" that received that treatment, using 500 l barrels; I did not like the wine, but fortunately, there is also a regular Forster Jesuitengarten Riesling.
 
As promised. All 2011.

Von Winning Deidesheimer Paradiesgarten Riesling trocken
Perhaps the best German trocken I’ve ever had. Dry but the fruit penetrates. Good acids with that saline element.

Von Winning Riesling
A QbA with Spatlese weight. Terrific flavors of citrus . A bit of baby fat. Nice little wine.

Von Winning Deidesheimer Kalkofen Riesling Großes Gewächs
A big step up. Chalky, rich fruit yet not overbearing. Thread of saline and gravel. If Marc Olivier made Riesling I imagine it would be similar to this wine.

Von Winning Forster Pechstein Riesling Großes Gewächs
My favorite of the line up. Superb wine with all the right stuff and that saline thingy. Too bad I can’t afford it.
 
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