TN: Salil Departs for the Summer from La Sirene (June 27, 2012)

Jeff Grossman

Jeff Grossman
attendees: Salil B, Michael L, Gene V, Jeff

Since my last visit -- which must be a really long time ago -- La Sirene has taken over the shop next door, painted, got some new tables and chairs, and generally scrubbed up. Nice job. Fortunately, the menu is the same so there was cassoulet for half the table, though I plunked for the tartiflette.

Salil is having a last slurp in the city before heading home to Singapore and, later, an African safari. So, we make it an interesting evening:

Octavin 2010 "Corvee de Trousseau" - the color and clarity of strawberry lemonade, also tastes kinda like strawberries (and a little like nail polish remover); Mike and Gene call a slight spritz which makes me think it rather like a Bugey-Cerdon with insufficient fizz; but Gene really dislikes the 'lab experiment' taste of this no-sulfur wine

Muller-Catoir 1990 Haardter Burgergarten Riesling Kabinett Trocken - 13 91, tastes of strangely acidic apricots, definitely dry, mid-weight texture, certainly good but I find it not very appealing

Leclerc 1985 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er "Combes Aux Moines" - "Two years older than I am!" says the waitress; this is all tertiary flavors and very lean, maybe there is a brief moment of some pommy-plummy fruit but it's pretty far gone

Ch. Mouton 1970 Pauillac "Reserve du Chateau" - at first, just some lead pencil and a generic 'old red wine' smell; an hour later, the fruit is trying to rally and gives us a little show

Levet 2004 Cote-Rotie "La Chavaroche" - also lean but there is a vigorous current of tapenade and dark blue-black fruit to carry it along; yum

Verset 1998 Cornas - Gene bought a bottle of 1998 Clape but this is what was delivered instead... um, sure, OK! a gorgeous bottle, flavor profile rather like the Levet but with better acidity and a slightly broader (sweeter?) palate

Huet 2004 Vouvray Sec "Clos de Bourg" - quite dry, a whiff of new car seat, but I'm quibbling: this is another golden honeyed Huet wine

Muller-Catoir 1990 Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Auslese - 98 91, all I have written is "omg" (ETA: I tasted it two mornings after and it is still bright and nicely sweet with a long finish.)

Ch. Climens 1959 Barsac - here I have written "omg" and more: there is a tiny bit of volatility in the nose but never mind that, the wine is so so so long, and clean and pure through every moment of it, wow
 
Very sorry to miss it but it's a good thing I backed out. We didn't get home until 9:30pm at which point I had a phone message from work waiting for me.

The Wiltinger Braune Kupp I had pulled will have to wait for another day.

And thank you for the heads up on the canele!
 
La Sirene is not exactly known for its seasonally appropriate menu. Unless, of course, it happens to be the dead of winter when you show up.

I admit to ordering the cassoulet. Mussels or Tilapia were the only genuinely lighter fare among the entrees, and I am not sure either would have paired well with any of the wines, except perhaps the dry Muller-Catoir or the Huet.
 
originally posted by VLM:
Jesus H Fucking Christ
Who the fuck eats cassoulet and tartiflette in this heat?!?!?

Here in Provence, when the sun goes down (or well before, since the sun doesn't go down until around 9PM), one eats meat or poultry and drinks rich red wine. The weak may pass out, but that's how natural selection works.
 
"Verset 1998 Cornas - Gene bought a bottle of 1998 Clape but this is what was delivered instead... um, sure, OK!"

I've got to shop there.
 
That was a very fun evening. Thank you all for your company and those wines. Agree on your comments for the most part; we drank very well and I was particularly taken by the Verset, Catoir Rieslaner and Climens. The Huet, Levet and the Catoir trocken were also excellent, and the Mouton had its moments - there were points where it seemed tired, and other moments where it was showing that exotic spiciness/sandalwood I expect from old Mouton and it was very enjoyable.

Joe, the Mouton was marked 'RC' (reserve du chateau) as a late release from the estate library.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Octavin 2010 "Corvee de Trousseau" - the color and clarity of strawberry lemonade, also tastes kinda like strawberries (and a little like nail polish remover); Mike and Gene call a slight spritz which makes me think it rather like a Bugey-Cerdon with insufficient fizz; but Gene really dislikes the 'lab experiment' taste of this no-sulfur wine.

I am sorry to hear this. I've had 3 bottles of this, most recently this evening, and they have all been in good shape; watermelon, strawberry, rhubarb and stoney minerality with no VA or refermentation. I am sure mine came from CSW and then kept carefully well below 14 degrees C.
 
RE the Mouton: in the mid-1970s, when the Bordeaux market had crashed, Mouton put these bottles up for auction -- supposedly a special reserve held at the ch“teau.
 
originally posted by kirk wallace:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

Octavin 2010 "Corvee de Trousseau" - the color and clarity of strawberry lemonade, also tastes kinda like strawberries (and a little like nail polish remover); Mike and Gene call a slight spritz which makes me think it rather like a Bugey-Cerdon with insufficient fizz; but Gene really dislikes the 'lab experiment' taste of this no-sulfur wine.

I am sorry to hear this. I've had 3 bottles of this, most recently this evening, and they have all been in good shape; watermelon, strawberry, rhubarb and stoney minerality with no VA or refermentation. I am sure mine came from CSW and then kept carefully well below 14 degrees C.

I agree on this, I went through almost a case and no VA or referment. One of my favorite wines in the past few years.
 
originally posted by mlawton:
originally posted by kirk wallace:
I am sorry to hear this. I've had 3 bottles of this, most recently this evening, and they have all been in good shape; watermelon, strawberry, rhubarb and stoney minerality with no VA or refermentation. I am sure mine came from CSW and then kept carefully well below 14 degrees C.

I agree on this, I went through almost a case and no VA or referment. One of my favorite wines in the past few years.
I liked it when it was first opened better than after it sat a bit. I thought it was fun wine.
 
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