Jeebus in the Catskills

Don Rice

Don Rice
On Sunday Melissa and I paid a visit to Andrew and Jennifer Scott after dropping the boys off at sleepaway camp. We jeebed, feasted, and probably drank a little too much. Ten people joined in on a beautiful late afternoon deep in the Catskills. Andrew said "the wines seemed to enjoy the party too."

First, 04 Ollivier Briords in magnum. A happy palate awakener. A beam of sunlight. Now we're really here.

Ah, a 96 Coulee de Serrant. This vintage, so tightly coiled when young, has finally released, unclenched, mellowed. A bottle opened about six months ago had been good but not great, and not quite clean either. Tonight, it finally delivered the spectacular Savennieres experience it's always had the potential for. Here's to the future, baby!

Andrew brought out three brownbagged 1997 Loire cab francs. Marked A, B and C.

"A" - Cedar, pure red fruit, umami. Smoothly textured and integrated. Almost smokey. Sensual.
"B" - Clear red-fruited nose, touch of darker herbs. Crunchy and tannic, great fruit purity, still youthful and evolving.
"C" - Licorice/mint, black earthiness, bandaid, truffles. Rustic, substantial, nicely tannic, complex.

Somewhere in the bags were these wines:
97 Olga Raffault Chinon "Picasses"
97 Clos Rougeard Saumur Champigny "Poyeax"
97 Clos Roche Blanche Touraine "Cabernet"

Can you guess which wine was in which bag? (it's easy but I'm not telling). Hints:

Andrew almost hallucinated over C
Melissa preferred B
I grooved on A

Later we opened a Pierre Bise 96 Rouannieres Coteaux du Layon. I've had good luck with this bottling. When will these be ready? This one hasn't budged. If I can still taste anything in 30 years, 1996 Rouannieres will be there.

On to the new 2011 Eminence Road Riesling, which has just been bottled. It's low alcohol (under 10% I think) and fermented completely dry. Grapes had some botrytis too. It's acidic, lemony-squirt tart, with an earthy finish. Not your mother's cloying pineapple Finger-lakes Riesling. Light texture, low alcohol, gutsy, severe flavor. Haw! Next time I won't drink it on the heels of a Rouannieres. Could go interesting places for those willing to wait.

The Eminence Road 2011 Cab franc is still going through malo, so around midnight we barrel-tasted samples from Andrew's assortment of 3-4 yr French and American oak casks. I think 2011 will be a more tannic wine than the 2010, also more structured. And very good. It could have stuffing enough to make older bones than the 2010 which is drinking so well at the moment.

There were some other wines. Andrew's cherry wine/mead blend, an Alsatian pinot noir, a sparkling chardonnay (just beginning secondary fermentation).

We hope our kids like their camp and we can make this an annual tradition.
 
Fun!

Sounds like a good tasting.

My guesses:

A is Clos Rougeard
B is CRB
C is Olga.

Of course, '97 Olga is a tough wine to guess, since there are so many of them!
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Fun!

Sounds like a good tasting.

My guesses:

A is Clos Rougeard
B is CRB
C is Olga.

Of course, '97 Olga is a tough wine to guess, since there are so many of them!
My guesses exactly.
 
The Clos Roche Blanche really held its own among the bigger names in cab franc. I think there is a little cabernet sauvignon in there. The '96 Coulee de Serrant is otherworldly. Great vineyard.

Wish I had bought a truckload of '04 Clos des Briords magnums, that wine has a long life ahead of it.

Next years test will be a little harder: '96 Cru Beaujolais.
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:

Wish I had bought a truckload of '04 Clos des Briords magnums, that wine has a long life ahead of it.
I know someone who did, you may see it again.
 
originally posted by Don Rice:
As we sipped from bag "C" this TN from long ago came to mind.

That was disturbing to read for so many reasons, but was Noel Pinguet really posting to the Asylum? Wow! Man, those were the days.
 
Okay. David and Jamie cannily put aside reserve cases of some current releases for later sale, and 04 Briords would be right up their alley. But you're right, naturally.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Okay. David and Jamie cannily put aside reserve cases of some current releases for later sale, and 04 Briords would be right up their alley. But you're right, naturally.

Actually, Joe is stockpiling this in Dakota underground bunkers to corner the market in aged Muscadet. Then, after global warming has turned the Nantes into the next Morocco, he'll unleash it upon a wine world who will pay thru the nose for whites that actually have natural acids in them, thus making him a fortune and securing his retirement for years to come.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Okay. David and Jamie cannily put aside reserve cases of some current releases for later sale, and 04 Briords would be right up their alley. But you're right, naturally.

This could work, as long as they'd ask me to hold it for them.
 
originally posted by MarkS:
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Okay. David and Jamie cannily put aside reserve cases of some current releases for later sale, and 04 Briords would be right up their alley. But you're right, naturally.

Actually, Joe is stockpiling this in Dakota underground bunkers to corner the market in aged Muscadet. Then, after global warming has turned the Nantes into the next Morocco, he'll unleash it upon a wine world who will pay thru the nose for whites that actually have natural acids in them, thus making him a fortune and securing his retirement for years to come.

Nah, Joe knows that it's a birth year wine for our son and is saving his mags for his 18th (hint hint)

Mark Lipton
 
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