One is not like the others

[Cliff]

2005 Domaine Raspail-Ay Gigondas - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas (7/6/2012)

Drinking pretty well.

2011 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône Blanc - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (7/6/2012)

Nice, fresh, with lovely aromatics. While not built to age, this is great for the summer or as an apéro. It's quite unusual to find such bright acidity and such a slim profile in the region. Chateau des Tours' vin de pays and Oratoire Saint Martin are the only others that come to mind.

1989 Huët Vouvray Moelleux 1ère Trie Le Haut-Lieu - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (7/4/2012)

Got this new label version direct from the domaine a few years ago. Bright gold and pristine, it was too young. The aromatics were beautiful on opening, but the palate was a little tight. With air, the aromatics toned down a a little and the palate opened up a bit.

2008 Domaine des Tours Côtes du Rhône - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (7/2/2012)

Needs air to show it's best. Popped and poured this, and it did not show remotely as well as the bottle at the domaine, which had been open for at least a day or two.

2007 Domaine du Trapadis Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau Cuvée Harys - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Rasteau (7/2/2012)

Wow. This is benchmark southern Syrah, and I do not mean to damn with faint praise. This is what it should be but never is.

2010 Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne (7/2/2012)

Terrific vintage, as good as any I've tried.

2009 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet) - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (7/2/2012)

This bottle was primary but pretty nondescript. I'm betting it will show better in a couple of years.

2006 Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne (7/2/2012)

Nice showing from magnum. Open, but no rush. Lush red velvet.

2004 Ch“teau Redortier Côtes du Rhône Villages Beaumes-de-Venise - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône Villages Beaumes-de-Venise (7/2/2012)

Really lovely. Still showing some structure and tannin, but opening back up from magnum. Nice marriage of lean (but at 14%) and rich southern goodies, black fruits, and some turned earth. Just beginning to shine in this format.

2010 Domaine les Pallières Gigondas Terrasse du Diable - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Gigondas (6/28/2012)

A little mute today, but this should be good. Nice, red fruits, in a mid-weight package.

2011 Domaine la Monardière Vin de Pays de Vaucluse - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vin de Pays de Vaucluse (6/26/2012)

Old-vine Grenache from sandy flats near Vacqueyras, but not in the AOC, this is very nice in 2011. Juicy and fresh, simple but pure, it weighs in around 13%.

2011 Domaine la Monardière Vacqueyras Le Rosé - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras (6/26/2012)

This is just right, juicy and fresh strawberries with the requisite zippy acidity.

2009 Domaine la Monardière Vacqueyras Vieilles Vignes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras (6/26/2012)

This was a lovely wine, but on the rich side for me. Deeply pitched griotte and velvet framed by fresh acidity. I would be curious to try this at maturity. It's a little much now.

2005 Ch“teau des Tours Vacqueyras - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras (6/27/2012)

This is the current release from the domaine. I have only been tasting for the past few years -- started with the 2001. That said, I have never seen one this closed. Zip, nada, nothing. The proportions look impressive. It has good density and not too much weight. I am convinced it will be fantastic, in time. But how much time? They said ten years from now in a decent cellar. That seems like a good bet to me. The only problem is the size of the cellar, the space, and the time.

2008 Domaine des Tours Côtes du Rhône - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (6/27/2012)

Just breathtakingly good: fantastic aromatics, red fruits, brick dust, leather, and earth. This has real depth and interest.

2010 Domaine la Monardière Vacqueyras Les 2 Monardes - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Vacqueyras (6/27/2012)

Really lovely. Fully ripe but not too rich, black fruits, earth, and minerals. The aromatics are there, but the palate is a little closed today. This has nice density without chunky, thick richness. A classic version.

2009 Domaine Richaud Côtes du Rhône Terres de Galets - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Côtes du Rhône (6/26/2012)

Nice, spicy, and simple -- and moderate alcohol is a bonus.

 

[Jonathan Loesberg]

Wow. A whole trip in one post. They were selling the 2010 Charvin CdR, when I was there. I haven't had the 09 since last fall, I'm not surprised to see it going into a clumsy periods. 08s and backwards are the ones now with the 00s-05s really doing their best.

I liked the Monardiere Vielles Vignes more than you did, but I gave it a good decant first and that may have smoothed it out.

I also agree about the 2010 Richaud Cairanne. Did you try their 2011 Vin de Table baby vines Grenache? All fruit, no body, a very nice light red from a place that doesn't do light.

 

[Cliff]

originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
Wow. A whole trip in one post. They were selling the 2010 Charvin CdR, when I was there. I haven't had the 09 since last fall, I'm not surprised to see it going into a clumsy periods. 08s and backwards are the ones now with the 00s-05s really doing their best.

I liked the Monardiere Vielles Vignes more than you did, but I gave it a good decant first and that may have smoothed it out.

I also agree about the 2010 Richaud Cairanne. Did you try their 2011 Vin de Table baby vines Grenache? All fruit, no body, a very nice light red from a place that doesn't do light.

Yes, in tiny little tidbits, mostly to help me keep track of what's there and how it's showing. I think decanting would have helped the Monardière. I had it at the domaine first thing in the morning, and they opened a new bottle for me.

Yes, I had the Richaud Grenache. I almost brought that for you but then thought you'd like the Monardière more. I think those entry wines are reasonably light, in context. I think the Terre des Galets clocks in at around 13.5%

I wish I had some of that older Charvin, but time will take care of it.

 

[MarkS]

Well, I think we know what the ringer is. But 13% grenache blends? Where is the hedonism??

 

[Cliff]

With the 2009 Charvins a bit shut down -- the 2010 CdR was gone before I got there, and they're not showing the 2010 since supply is short -- I'd have to say that the most hedonistic wine on the list, apart from the ringer, was Hary.