Ian Fitzsimmons
Ian Fitzsimmons
2002 Taluau St. Nicolas de Bourgeuil vv
Out of the bottle, stocky and solid, none of the green showing in earlier years. Not much charm at first, but with some air time, beginning to drink rather prettily. This wine has so much more freshness and character than a Bordeaux blend, it almost leans towards Burgundy in its blend of matured fruit, freshening acidity, and engaging texture. Sensitive to temperature: serve cool.
2009 Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Vaillons
Plump and stuffy on opening, but with 20 minutes' or so exposure to air, intense minerality and a clean line of precise acidity come to the fore, balancing the slight roundness and making for a delicious wine. In style, it deviates from a classic Chablis profile, leaning towards that of an excellent Macon Vire Clessé, with its blend of heft, generous minerality, and slightly open-knit texture. The precise acidity, however, tethers this bottle to its place of origin.
2007 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières
This is a lovely bottle of wine. Pepper and ravishing dark fruit, but classily-presented, nothing remotely flabby or candied. Great balance, texturally rich fruit, full and round. Really terrific Beaujolais. I imagine it will continue to improve, but worth opening a bottle now.
2005 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Granite de Clisson
From magnum. Some pillowy textural smoothness over a line of acid crispness, with light citrus on the nose; but, to me, mostly closed as to aromatics and flavor. From this format, at least, hold for a couple more years, imho.
2008 Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Les Rosiers
Excellent Chenin: tangy, almost thick with a kind of intense chalky-mineral sensation, with some wet wool on the finish, slightly rounded by the merest hint of RS. Cast from a very different mold than Vouvray and Montlous. With Leroy, my new star producer of Chenin-based Loire.
2009 Gilbert Picq Chablis Dessus La Carriere
From magnum: early, pleasant enough, dry, a touch round, in the style of the producer and vintage, but a bit walled-in. After about three hours, the wall begins to come down, showing really nice depth and minerally acidity, in addition to citrusy-lemony flavors. Surprising intensity and finesse for a villages from a warm year.
2008 A. et P. de Villaine Rully Les Saint Jacques
De Villaine's site says to drink this wine relatively young for its freshness and finesse, while cellaring the Clous. At four years old, this bottle drinks very nicely, with 20 minutes cooling in the refrigerator and about the same in the decanter: tangy, funky goodness, free of Chardonnay cliches.
Out of the bottle, stocky and solid, none of the green showing in earlier years. Not much charm at first, but with some air time, beginning to drink rather prettily. This wine has so much more freshness and character than a Bordeaux blend, it almost leans towards Burgundy in its blend of matured fruit, freshening acidity, and engaging texture. Sensitive to temperature: serve cool.
2009 Billaud-Simon Chablis 1er Vaillons
Plump and stuffy on opening, but with 20 minutes' or so exposure to air, intense minerality and a clean line of precise acidity come to the fore, balancing the slight roundness and making for a delicious wine. In style, it deviates from a classic Chablis profile, leaning towards that of an excellent Macon Vire Clessé, with its blend of heft, generous minerality, and slightly open-knit texture. The precise acidity, however, tethers this bottle to its place of origin.
2007 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Javernières
This is a lovely bottle of wine. Pepper and ravishing dark fruit, but classily-presented, nothing remotely flabby or candied. Great balance, texturally rich fruit, full and round. Really terrific Beaujolais. I imagine it will continue to improve, but worth opening a bottle now.
2005 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Granite de Clisson
From magnum. Some pillowy textural smoothness over a line of acid crispness, with light citrus on the nose; but, to me, mostly closed as to aromatics and flavor. From this format, at least, hold for a couple more years, imho.
2008 Domaine de Bellivière Jasnières Les Rosiers
Excellent Chenin: tangy, almost thick with a kind of intense chalky-mineral sensation, with some wet wool on the finish, slightly rounded by the merest hint of RS. Cast from a very different mold than Vouvray and Montlous. With Leroy, my new star producer of Chenin-based Loire.
2009 Gilbert Picq Chablis Dessus La Carriere
From magnum: early, pleasant enough, dry, a touch round, in the style of the producer and vintage, but a bit walled-in. After about three hours, the wall begins to come down, showing really nice depth and minerally acidity, in addition to citrusy-lemony flavors. Surprising intensity and finesse for a villages from a warm year.
2008 A. et P. de Villaine Rully Les Saint Jacques
De Villaine's site says to drink this wine relatively young for its freshness and finesse, while cellaring the Clous. At four years old, this bottle drinks very nicely, with 20 minutes cooling in the refrigerator and about the same in the decanter: tangy, funky goodness, free of Chardonnay cliches.