Randy McCluer and his wife, Barb, were in from Dallas and Jay Miller gathered a welcoming committee that also included Arnold Valerdo, Levi Dalton and Don and Melissa Rice to celebrate their visit. I remember Randy from the old WLDG and Wine Therapy wine board days, so it was a pleasure to finally put the face to the name.
We gathered at Thirty Acres in Jersey City, a new place that's been getting some buzz as the chef is a an alum of the Momofuku group. Indeed, both the decor and menu were clearly influenced by Momofuku as the decor was sparse and the menu thin. There were only a handful of appetizers to choose from, two entrees and one dessert. I would've liked to have seen some more choices, but, that said, everything the kitchen turned out was wonderful and that includes one of the best pork chops I've ever had in a restaurant.
With good food, wine and friends, a great time was had by all.
1989 Luneau-Papin- Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Le L D'Or - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
A beautiful showing, though this bottle exhibited a bit more development than one I had a couple of years ago. Chablis-like with nice weight and creaminess. It's shown a similar saline character with oyster shells, mineral and melon for years now, though there's now a touch of mature nuttiness. With air it took on some red plum and red cherry notes, which I never really noticed before. Plenty of life left, though I have to say I do prefer the fresher character it showed a couple of years ago, so the couple of bottles I've been nursing in the cellar will be consumed sooner, rather than later. A-.
1995 Domaine des Baumard- Savennières Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
Showing a brighter color and much less oxidation than the wildly publicized premoxed '96, though there's still a bit more nuttiness here than I would prefer. That said, it has nice freshness and quince dominates the nose and palate with a touch of apples, spice and mineral. Good weight and length and the wine did grow with air. Drinking quite nicely right now, but I'm going to drink mine sooner as I prefer less oxidation. B+/A-.
2001 Albert Boxler- Riesling Sommerberg L31D - France, Alsace, Katzenthal, Alsace Grand Cru AOC
Best showing of this wine that I've had. Still quite youthful, but this bottle is more fruit forward with the mineral more in the background than any other that I've had. Concentrated and layered with brilliant structure supporting the ripe stone fruit and pink and orange citrus fruit. Just a bit of sweetness to the wine. Really classy stuff and a truly perfect match with my pork chop with grilled peaches. One of the better food and wine pairings I've had in awhile, actually and my WOTN. A/A-.
2009 Kruger-Rumpf- Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
An enjoyable wine that's still quite primary, though is a bit simple and could use more acidity than it has. Plenty of sweet yellow and stone fruits with underlying floral notes. I don't get much minerality here, rather it's dominated by fruit, though I suspect there will be more of a mineral character once the baby fat melts away. A perfectly friendly, slightly plump quaff. B+/A-.
2010 Jean-Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand'Cour)- Fleurie Clos de la Grand'Cour - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Intense blueberry pie aromas on the nose that carried through on the palate before shifting to redder fruit. It was initially quite pleasant upfront before the wine turned a little muscular mid-palate and was then overwhelmed by a wall of acidity. There just wasn't enough stuffing to stand up to it. B.
1988 Domaine Bruno Clair- Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
This has clearly entered the old age home as there's precious little fruit left and the wine is dominated by earth, leather and tea flavors and aromas. There are faint embers of strawberry fruit lingering around, but not enough to stand up to all the tertiary development and drying tannins. A pleasant dried roses note does make a brief appearance, but there's no denying this wine is pretty dried out at this point. B-.
2008 Domaine Joseph Voillot- Pommard 1er Cru Les Pèzerolles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Served double blind, I think most folks were surprised by how strangely and perhaps atypical this showed. We were met with an initial blast of sweet 'n jammy red fruit before a wave of toasty oak largely overwhelmed the wine. Disjointed with the alcohol a bit too noticeable, it shows plenty of spice and the fruit levels would be nice if not for all that vanillin oak. B-.
1970 La Rioja Alta- Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
After a couple of off bottles of this in a row, it was nice to finally have one that showed decently. Still, one was met with an initial blast of volatile acidity on the nose. On the palate, it's showing some decent cherry and strawberry fruit levels, but there's no getting around the fact that the wine is fully resolved and has slid more into the earth and leather realm. Unlike many other old Rioja, this didn't really build with air. In fact, the fruit started to fade after about 45 minutes or so. I've been trying to drink these up quickly while there's still fruit. As a rule I'm finding most '70 Rioja to be in decline. B+.
1979 Gonzalez-Byass- Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Finest Dry Palo Cortado Añada - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
Loads of volatile acidity on the nose and palate. Typically nutty, saline, high acid and oxidative, though there's nice intensity and depth here. I just don't like oxidative wines, but if you're a fan of dry Sherry, this would be quite compelling to you. B-.
1988 Jacques Puffeney- Arbois Vin Jaune - France, Jura, Arbois
Like dry Sherry, Vin Jaune is an acquired taste and it's one I probably won't ever acquire. Oxidative with the addition of a fish sauce note. Extremely sharp and lean. Not for me. C-.
We gathered at Thirty Acres in Jersey City, a new place that's been getting some buzz as the chef is a an alum of the Momofuku group. Indeed, both the decor and menu were clearly influenced by Momofuku as the decor was sparse and the menu thin. There were only a handful of appetizers to choose from, two entrees and one dessert. I would've liked to have seen some more choices, but, that said, everything the kitchen turned out was wonderful and that includes one of the best pork chops I've ever had in a restaurant.
With good food, wine and friends, a great time was had by all.
1989 Luneau-Papin- Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Le L D'Or - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine
A beautiful showing, though this bottle exhibited a bit more development than one I had a couple of years ago. Chablis-like with nice weight and creaminess. It's shown a similar saline character with oyster shells, mineral and melon for years now, though there's now a touch of mature nuttiness. With air it took on some red plum and red cherry notes, which I never really noticed before. Plenty of life left, though I have to say I do prefer the fresher character it showed a couple of years ago, so the couple of bottles I've been nursing in the cellar will be consumed sooner, rather than later. A-.
1995 Domaine des Baumard- Savennières Clos du Papillon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
Showing a brighter color and much less oxidation than the wildly publicized premoxed '96, though there's still a bit more nuttiness here than I would prefer. That said, it has nice freshness and quince dominates the nose and palate with a touch of apples, spice and mineral. Good weight and length and the wine did grow with air. Drinking quite nicely right now, but I'm going to drink mine sooner as I prefer less oxidation. B+/A-.
2001 Albert Boxler- Riesling Sommerberg L31D - France, Alsace, Katzenthal, Alsace Grand Cru AOC
Best showing of this wine that I've had. Still quite youthful, but this bottle is more fruit forward with the mineral more in the background than any other that I've had. Concentrated and layered with brilliant structure supporting the ripe stone fruit and pink and orange citrus fruit. Just a bit of sweetness to the wine. Really classy stuff and a truly perfect match with my pork chop with grilled peaches. One of the better food and wine pairings I've had in awhile, actually and my WOTN. A/A-.
2009 Kruger-Rumpf- Münsterer Dautenpflänzer Riesling Spätlese - Germany, Nahe
An enjoyable wine that's still quite primary, though is a bit simple and could use more acidity than it has. Plenty of sweet yellow and stone fruits with underlying floral notes. I don't get much minerality here, rather it's dominated by fruit, though I suspect there will be more of a mineral character once the baby fat melts away. A perfectly friendly, slightly plump quaff. B+/A-.
2010 Jean-Louis Dutraive (Domaine de la Grand'Cour)- Fleurie Clos de la Grand'Cour - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Fleurie
Intense blueberry pie aromas on the nose that carried through on the palate before shifting to redder fruit. It was initially quite pleasant upfront before the wine turned a little muscular mid-palate and was then overwhelmed by a wall of acidity. There just wasn't enough stuffing to stand up to it. B.
1988 Domaine Bruno Clair- Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru La Dominode - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru
This has clearly entered the old age home as there's precious little fruit left and the wine is dominated by earth, leather and tea flavors and aromas. There are faint embers of strawberry fruit lingering around, but not enough to stand up to all the tertiary development and drying tannins. A pleasant dried roses note does make a brief appearance, but there's no denying this wine is pretty dried out at this point. B-.
2008 Domaine Joseph Voillot- Pommard 1er Cru Les Pèzerolles - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru
Served double blind, I think most folks were surprised by how strangely and perhaps atypical this showed. We were met with an initial blast of sweet 'n jammy red fruit before a wave of toasty oak largely overwhelmed the wine. Disjointed with the alcohol a bit too noticeable, it shows plenty of spice and the fruit levels would be nice if not for all that vanillin oak. B-.
1970 La Rioja Alta- Rioja Gran Reserva 904 - Spain, La Rioja, Rioja
After a couple of off bottles of this in a row, it was nice to finally have one that showed decently. Still, one was met with an initial blast of volatile acidity on the nose. On the palate, it's showing some decent cherry and strawberry fruit levels, but there's no getting around the fact that the wine is fully resolved and has slid more into the earth and leather realm. Unlike many other old Rioja, this didn't really build with air. In fact, the fruit started to fade after about 45 minutes or so. I've been trying to drink these up quickly while there's still fruit. As a rule I'm finding most '70 Rioja to be in decline. B+.
1979 Gonzalez-Byass- Jerez-Xérès-Sherry Finest Dry Palo Cortado Añada - Spain, Andalucía, Jerez-Xérès-Sherry
Loads of volatile acidity on the nose and palate. Typically nutty, saline, high acid and oxidative, though there's nice intensity and depth here. I just don't like oxidative wines, but if you're a fan of dry Sherry, this would be quite compelling to you. B-.
1988 Jacques Puffeney- Arbois Vin Jaune - France, Jura, Arbois
Like dry Sherry, Vin Jaune is an acquired taste and it's one I probably won't ever acquire. Oxidative with the addition of a fish sauce note. Extremely sharp and lean. Not for me. C-.