1994 Domaine La Casenove Cuvée Commandant François Jaubert for no political reason other than the Hillary-influenced reason of that it was there. Hideously overpriced on initial release (I know, I sold scads of it back then), this blend of 30% Carignan, 30% Syrah, 30% Grenache Noir, and 10% Mourvedre has somehow found room for another 20% or so of brettanomyces. This was one of the first fancy super-Côtes du Roussillons and I recall it being pretty big and oaky/frooty with just a smidgeon of funk when it first came out. This was just about the time that the Languedoc wines made their first onslaught into the USA and the Cuvée Jaubert was a little easier to get a grasp of if your frame of reference was from California. It showed well on release but we urged everyone to put some away for a rainy day because it would only improve in the cellar.
Well, as you know, it never rains in California so some of this stuff has been cellared a little past what even I, an optimist in the extreme, might have recommended. Fortunately, everything about this wine has resolved really nicely, but that brett thing gets in the way a bit. The 14.5% alcohol level is not a problem when served a little above cellar temperature (similar to great Chateauneuf-du-Pape rather than Mollydooker) and it's still pretty lively. Worth drinking if you have any, and an okay accompaniment to the Olympics if I were watching them. However, it's a great accompaniment to "Formula 1 Debrief".
-Eden (feels odd not spraying Champagne around the room while watching this show)