Cape Cod

BJ

BJ
Mme L and I are going to be there the first week of Sept. Anything we should do there? Eat? Etc.? Go to wine shop? I would like to stock up on some Loire whites for seafood...

We will be taking the bus out there from Logan so I don't think a Boston stop is in the cards...
 
Don't know about Cape Cod but you'll almost certainly do better than we do out here. Just was marooned in Boston for a day en route to Maine and found Pepiere, Roilette, Baudry, P. Faury, Cos, Texier, and several delish Farnum Hill ciders just at the Cambridge Whole Foods.
 
originally posted by BJ:
Cape CodMme L and I are going to be there the first week of Sept. Anything we should do there? Eat? Etc.? Go to wine shop? I would like to stock up on some Loire whites for seafood...

We will be taking the bus out there from Logan so I don't think a Boston stop is in the cards...

Yes!!! Bike from Harwitch Port to Chatham and right after you pass Chatham Airport, on you right, you'll find White Pond, where you should spend some time.
 
I've had either the fortune or misfortune to spend nearly every summer vacation for the last 17 years on Cape Cod, not because I like it, but because my mother-in-law rents a house in Eastham and expects all her kids and grandkids to make the pilgrimage. Yeah, make all the jokes you want. I've heard every one: "second prize is two weeks with your mother-in-law", etc, etc etc. Fuck it.

So, from experience, I can offer the following possibly useful advice:

1) PB Boulangerie in Wellfleet/Falmouth. Hey, what-the-fuck is a very good boulangerie doing on the way to the beach? Good coffee, good - no, great! - pastries, very good sandwiches. Haven't tried their salads, soups and dinner menu, but I would give it a shot.

2) Abba in Orleans is good, solid, upper-middle food with an unexpectedly interesting wine list: Brundlmayer, Schroeck, JJ Prum, Alzinger, Boxler and lots more. The whites are better than the reds. Service is accomplished without being fawning.

3) There are some farm stands around on Rte 6. Buy fresh corn!

4) Don't expect to find any decent wine stores on the outer Cape. Can't comment about Hyannis or Falmouth, though it would surprise me if there is anything decent. Buy beer or stick with generic plonk.

5) Emacs & Bolio in Orleans is great ice cream. There are other ice cream places, but this is the best by far.

6) There is a Safeway in Orleans with decent produce and other supplies. If you don't have a car, get one!

7) Provincetown is less "honky-tonk" than it used to be. My wife and I have some friends who run the Ernden gallery. Small, but interesting. That side of the Commercial Street is quieter and has better shopping, galleries and food.

8) Whale or seal watching is worth doing. Whale watching trips go out of Provincetown; seal watching out of Chatham. Oh, and the seals are the reason all the great white sharks have returned to the waters around the Cape.

9) The beaches are quite beautiful. I like Race Point at Provincetown. You can rent bikes and ride out there. I also like Coast Guard Beach in Eastham. Do remember that the water is cold (58 degrees) and there can be, in Boston parlance, a "wicked undertow." I think all the life guards are gone after Labor Day, so watch where you swim. Oh, and given the great white sharks, stick close to shore.

10) The rail-trail is a good, reasonably flat ride through most of the outer Cape. You will pass lots of parks and beaches, mostly on the Bay side.

11) There is a chocolate place in Orleans -- the Hot Chocolate Sparrow, with decent chocolates, coffee, and hot chocolate. Good place for a pee-break if you're biking along the rail-trail.

12) If you want to swim in warmer, less challenging waters, there are lots of kettle-ponds (depressions left by the retreating ice sheets that filled with water). Some are privately owned and have no public access, but a few do allow public swimming. In the summer, they are usually filled with lots of kids, families, kayakers, etc.

Enough. Enjoy. Stay warm.
 
If you go to Provincetown, go to Bubala's for dinner ( http://www.bubalas.com/) - ask for Johnny Yingling (aka "Jingles") (or his son Gui) and tell him I sent you. He is a close friend - I do Christmas dinner with him every year here in DC (the man makes the most amazing gravy - no flour until the end! and full of espresso!). He has a very good wine collection - but it might not all be on the winelist so you should call a day or two in advance and talk to him about what you might be interested in. Now, this list might be a little more traditional than a list typically acclaimed on this board - but if you can handle drinking aged burgundy and champagne that hasn't been marked up, you'll like it.

He also owns the best pizzeria in town - Spiritus. I think there's one elsewhere on the cape, run by his brother, Wence.

Gui's wife's family has a winery in Truro - Truro Vineyards of Cape Cod - pretty good wine for Massachusetts! http://trurovineyardsofcapecod.com/index.php
 
Many thanks to one and all for the outpouring of information.

We will be in Eastham. It is a family rental, so maybe just steps from Zachary's family place. We will be there starting Saturday for the week.

Great suggestions, and Bubala's in particular sounds great.

We are mainly interested in vegging out and doing a lot of bird watching.
 
The "Zachary" family place (HAH!) is on Nickerson Road near the Windmill. As you explore Eastham, you will discover lots of places named after the Nickerson family, including a state park or two. No idea who they were.

I left off one place that's worth the sin: Marion's Pies in Chatham. Hope you're not counting calories.

Ugh - I spoke too quickly. Looks like they sold the place and it has gone downhill. T'ant pis.
 
Agree with Bubala's. They've had a Bollinger VVF I believe 1992 on the list for years; call in advance if you plan to spring for it.

PB Boulangerie is terrific. Closed on Mondays. Excellent croissants. And breads. Excellent sinful Croque Monsieurs. Haven't eaten a meal there but people I know and trust like it.

I think the best corn on Rte 6 in Eastham is the stand on the westbound side pretty close to the Orleans rotary. Sorry don't recall the name.

The Wellfleet Harbor Actors theater (W.H.A.T.) has some good stuff.

Chillingsworth in Brewster is a fine high end restaurant. There are others.

Nice nature trails and other stuff (guided walks, etc) at the Audubon center in South Wellfleet.

Bike trail is really nice, but bike path/walking path from the Cape Cod Natl Seashore Visitor's Center in Eastham to Coast Guard Beach is REALLY nice.
Some nice walks in the Fort Hill area of the Natl Seashore.
Agree with Race int and bike trails in the Provincetown dunes.

Moby Dick's is a big casual restaurant heading north from Wellfleet on Rte 6, good if standard fare, and BYOB!

Charles
 
Spent a week in Eastham right off the bike trail on Kingsbury Beach Rd three weeks ago.

We liked the fish tacos at
In Orleans. We rented kayaks (4 hr) just down the street from finbar's and went there for lunch afterward. Made for a nice day.

best fresh fish purchased at the dock in Welfleet. All the fish stores we went to were fine but
This one had the biggest selection.

Decent grocery store in Orleans called Shaw's wine shop next store is pretty standard I only purchased beer and some hard liquor for my FIL
 
Back
Top