A few wines in Paris

slaton

Slaton Lipscomb
The 2009 Demarne-Frison 'Goustan' brut nature was recommended by the caviste at Caves du Panthéon after I was told they were alas out of Blanc d'Argile. This is a tiny producer in Aube who apparently was guided to some degree by Bernard Gautherot of V et S.
It's an interesting wine made in the ripe grapes, no dosage style. It shows rather spicy pinot noir fruit and is quite rich and creamy for a brut nature, and perhaps a touch oxidative, but powerful barbed wire acidity keeps this from even thinking about blowsy. Said to be 50-50 pinot noir and chardonnay but the former is driving.

The 2011 Yvon Métras Fleurie 'Le Printemps' was a bit raw and reduced initially but a day after opening a lovely floral perfume has emerged and this is delicious if slightly astringent in the way very young gamay can be. The remainder was gone quickly on a hot early evening, glou-glou.

2009 Domaine Ganevat 'Cuvée Florine' was a fantastic ouille chardonnay. A really 'wow' nose, rich and developed yet with brisk saline, oceanic elements. Utterly seamless aromatics and palate, and just enough oxidation to mimic mid-term bottle age. One of my favorite Jura chardonnays I've tasted and right up there with Gahier's La Fauquette. Unfortunately my octopus carpaccio served as a vinous coc-bloc by accentuating an astringence in the wine that I'd not noticed sans poulpe.

Alas I neglected to confirm whether the Bernard Burgaud Côte-Rôtie I drank a glass of was the 2008 or 2009. The wine list indicated the 2008, but it drank much more like a 2009. In any event it offered initially gorgeously perfumed smellies with smoky capsicums and violets, and a rich and tactile palate with dark rich '09-like fruit. Ample round tannins that just cling to every inch of the palate. A bit bigger and riper than I usually prefer, yes. But really this put on quite a show -- until it shut down mercilessly in the glass about 15 minutes in. *sigh*

This afternoon I gleefully relieved Les Caves Augé of a bottle of '10 Dard et Ribo Hermitage at just a hair more than what we usually see the St Joseph for in the states. Will report back.
 
And a bottle of 2010 Houillon / Overnoy green-wax tonight disappointed. It was rather silent aromatically and showed just a vaguely spicy macerated apple-y palate, albeit with some chewy density.

Fortunately several remarkably delicious supper dishes courtesy of Le Verre Volé helped to chase any disappointment.

I must confess I'm not familiar with the dark green wax for Overnoy. It was described as "chardonnay with maceration" and indeed it had a cloudy yellow appearance, but was not in the domaine d'orange. I suspect one of our fine disorderly souls knows the story, though...
 
originally posted by slaton:

I must confess I'm not familiar with the dark green wax for Overnoy. It was described as "chardonnay with maceration" and indeed it had a cloudy yellow appearance, but was not in the domaine d'orange. I suspect one of our fine disorderly souls knows the story, though...

It is indeed a skin-macerated wine. An experiment by Manu. Cory and Guilhaume have the details.
 
originally posted by Jim Hanlon:
It is indeed a skin-macerated wine. An experiment by Manu. Cory and Guilhaume have the details.
Thanks Jim. Have you had the wine, and if so what was your experience?
 
A few of us had a very pleasing bottle of that chardonnay in Brooklyn a few weeks back (though the wax seemed more black than green in our light). Lightly tannic, not deeply orange, but I really enjoyed the flavors, the brightness, the good stuff.

I am a bit surprised that the good bottle would have been in Brooklyn, and the problematic one in Paris, though I think our bottle was one that I brought from Auge.
 
Green wax is chard/savagnin blend, made in a reductive, non oxidative style.
Grey (or black for the first batch of 2009) is a chardonnay de maceration.

bande de bleu bite
 
The 2011 Jean-Claude Lapalu Beaujolais blanc was a richer and fuller-bodied style than I've tasted previously from this region, but nonetheless refreshed on a warm evening thanks to fresh acidity.

A glass of 2011 Potron Minet 'Macache' had a striking burnished, cloudy appearance. It is skin-fermented macabeo from the Roussillon and while there's not much happening aromatically, I dug the rich, slightly oxidized flavors and thirst quenching acidity. It went splendidly with saumon rillettes w/ dill.

A glass of 2010 Guy Breton Regnie vieilles vignes was pleasant enough but not more. I've tasted no more than 4 or 5 of his wines, mostly the Morgon vieilles vignes over several vintages, and they always seem to show a touch more brett than I'd like. This was no exception.

A small taste of 2011 Vini Viti Vinci Bourgogne-Epineuil (rouge) was all I needed. It was teeming with acetobacter or one of its friends, hopefully other bottles are in better shape.

The 2011 Benoit Couralt 'Les Tabeneaux' was more my speed. This is mostly cabernet franc with some grolleaux, from Anjou. It was lovely aromatically, reminding me of a good bottle of Nuits d'Ivresse or Trinch: herbaceous dark fruit, perfumed pipe tobacco, notes of chocolat noir. Very tasty, if a bit tart; it wants some food alongside.

Also of note: a small cheese plate at Café de la Nouvelle Mairie blew my mind, particularly the unpasteurized camembert, very old comté, and a drier herbaceous, earthy cheese I couldn't identify. Probably the best thing I've eaten the entire trip.
 
originally posted by Guilhaume gerard:
Green wax is chard/savagnin blend, made in a reductive, non oxidative style.
Grey (or black for the first batch of 2009) is a chardonnay de maceration.

bande de bleu bite
Merci, monsieur greenhorn.
A bottle tonight of the 2010 ploussard was much more pleasing. Too young for sure but a beautiful wine. To my surprise it paired wonderfully with sashimi. Although no mackerel was offered (alas).
 
originally posted by slaton:

A glass of 2010 Guy Breton Regnie vieilles vignes was pleasant enough but not more. I've tasted no more than 4 or 5 of his wines, mostly the Morgon vieilles vignes over several vintages, and they always seem to show a touch more brett than I'd like. This was no exception.
I can't contradict you.
 
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