An important scientific contribution by John Gilman

VS

Victor de la Serna
Hot climate does not produce wines with more alcohol than cool climate, John Gilman has revealed in his respected newsletter. I thought that this was worth sharing with all disorderlies:

"Long-time Spanish wine expert and journalist, Gerry Dawes has finally tossed his hat back in the ring of the wine trade here in the United States, creating a new Spanish wine import company that is focused on searching out old school Spanish wines of great character that have resisted (or studiously ignored) the modern trend towards high alcohol and over-oaked wines that have plagued many of the most well-known properties on the Iberian peninsula during the last couple of decades. Señor Dawes is probably the most vociferous opponent of excessive new oak to be found in the world of wine since the passing of Bartolo Mascarello, and he is no fan of the very heady and overripe style of winemaking that has been championed in many other journalistic circles behind the banner of Spain’s “Mediterranean Wine” fiction, which argues unpersuasively that Spain’s natural wine proclivity is to make overripe and alcoholic wines due to the limitations of its Mediterranean climate. Spain’s important native wine critic, Victor de la Serna of the publication, El Mundo, has long argued for this fantasy in the face of an historical legacy to the contrary, which helped provide the propaganda program behind which so many Spanish wineries sought to maximize profitability by fashioning wines solely for the over the top tastes of Robert Parker’s associate, Jay Miller, who has just retired from covering Spain for the Parker empire."
 
Oh! In case you have a LOT of time and wonder where this attack came from, I think it harks back to a discussion on the 1994 Vega Sicilia Único on a different web site three years ago. Gilman had labeled the wine "monstrous" and given it a 71/100 rating, and I objected. Since then, I'm the bogeyman. Pretty ridiculous, since everything elmundovino has published over the past 12 years is easy to check online. (In Spanish only - sorry. But still - easier to understand than Serbo-Croatian.)
 
I am no longer taking any unwarranted shit. I have enough work to do coping with the warranted one...
 
VS: what is your take on grape ripeness and natural levels of alcohol in Spanish wines, if you have time to summarize it for the audience here.
 
I'm sorry if this is too naive but I'd like to ask: what is the right answer to Gilman's observations:
-- Spain has had hot weather throughout the recent centuries, yet the wines are only big and alcoholic recently.
-- Dawes is able to find Spanish wines at reasonable alcohol, but shouldn't the weather make that impossible?

ETA: In deference to Brad What-Hyperbole-Was-That? Kane, I have reworded the first bullet.
 
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

-- Spain has had hot weather since the world began, yet the wines are only big and alcoholic recently.

Well, there have been a few ice ages. Fairly recently, geologically, too.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Jeff Grossman:

-- Spain has had hot weather since the world began, yet the wines are only big and alcoholic recently.

Well, there have been a few ice ages. Fairly recently, geologically, too.
Say what? I don't recall any ice age having occurred since the 1980's, or thereabouts.
 
It's a big country, Spain. Hot places, cool sea breezes, mountains, plains.

Ribeiro a long way from Ribera del Duero, say.

Big generalizations are likely to have truth and falsehood about them.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
It's a big country, Spain. Hot places, cool sea breezes, mountains, plains.

Ribeiro a long way from Ribera del Duero, say.

Big generalizations are likely to have truth and falsehood about them.
Agreed. John and Victor seem to find a way around that one so I'm going to wait for something else to come along.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
VS: what is your take on grape ripeness and natural levels of alcohol in Spanish wines, if you have time to summarize it for the audience here.

What is a "natural level of alcohol"? I guess there's a maximum based on when the grapes stop accumulating sugar (but could still be "naturally" exceeded by drying or freezing). But all other levels of alcohol are determined by the choice of picking date, no?
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
I think the question makes sense in the context of the initial excerpt VS led off with.

What I mean is, having read few (actually no) issues of El Mundo, would Victor be kind enough to say briefly the gist of what he's written on the subject. We have Gilman's 'scientific' view, but not Victor's, which Gilman is attacking.
 
I don't know. There seems to be some reasonably low to middling alcohol wines coming out of hot places like S France, Southern Italy, Australia, Cali etc. All personal attacks aside it seems like a valid question.
 
You can make a low alcohol wine in a hot latitude by climbing a mountain, picking early, or using osmosis to remove some of the excess. Seems to me each pays a different price, all likely to rise if things continue to get hotter.
 
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