What's the deal with Castell'in Villa?

[Oswaldo Costa]

Had never tried this well-regarded joint, so last week we opened, on three consecutive nights, the 2000, 2005 and 2006 Chianti Classico Riservas.

All were elegant and tasty, but not more than the sigma of parts. The fruit was not jammy at first (only the 2006, weighing in at 14%, was a bit), but became so as they warmed in the glass.

The chapter about them in Rosenthal's book shows little in the way of natural credentials, or even traditionalist credentials. Rosenthal essentially says the wines are delicious but the owner too difficult.

The site shows that they make a supertuscan that is 50% cabernet sauvignon (the use of constant percentages, independent of vintage, already seems to me to bode ill) and a single vineyard sangiovese that spends 18 months in French barriques.

 

[Arno Tronche]

Recently had the 06 Classico (or 07, can't remember) and thought it was a well made, traditional Chianti and well priced (think it was around $21). Nothing spectacular but considering all the crap you can find in Chianti nowadays this was refreshing to see.
Thanks for the notes on the Riservas.

 

[Jeff Grossman]

In 2010 I drank a few of the '96. They were good, just at the cusp getting too soft.

 

[Oliver McCrum]

I have had some outstanding wines from Castell'in Villa. As I understand it, the CC and the Riserva are pretty traditionally made, and they hold back inventory, so the older wines I imagine you see in NY sometimes are likely from their cellar. (We hardly see the wines out here.)