Klabjan

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Recommended by a friend I bought a couple bottles of Klabjan's wines, from Slovenia, Primorska. This isn't a producer that I see mentioned much on the interwebz but the two without obvious oak were interesting, fun and very drinkable. But not quite as interesting as Čotar's (nor quite as expensive).

2008 Klabjan Refosk White Label
13% abv. The white label is the unoaked line from Klabjan. This is a really enjoyable Refosk: lactic, vegetal and ferrous dark fruit aromas; sour, pleasantly tart - and just as the scent is ferrous the taste is actually quite bloody. Long, fresh, savoury finish. Lovely wine but don't serve to people who prefer their meat anything else than rare!

2003 Klabjan Refosk Black Label
14,5% abv. The black label range of Klabjan is the oaked range, though I don't know how much or what type of oak is used. But it smells like rubber and vanilla and toffee and all sorts of things I don't like. The palate also has an annoying oaky sheen to it; but the aftertaste is really wonderful and exactly what I hope to find in Refosk: lactic, sour, refreshing, invigorating. A shame about all the rest of the wine. I'll stick to the white label unoaked version from now on.

2006 Klabjan Malvasia Black Label
14,5% abv. From 50-100yo vines; 20 day skin maceration; aged on lees for 30 months in used Barriques. Unlike the oak aged Refosk, this Malvasia is really nice. A deep gold, but not a full-on orange colour despite the 20 day skin contact. The nose is wonderfully attractive: honey, flowers, oolong tea and - odd though this may sound, it is awesome - beer of some well hopped Belgian Blonde type! Rich, malty (no surprise there considering the beery nose) taste with wonderful acidity balancing the sweet fruit. The high alcohol is not noticeable. Lovely.
 
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