A couple of 08s with brisket

Marc D

Marc Davis
I found a nice fatty brisket to braise with some root vegetables, and opened a couple of young wines to go with the meal.

2008 Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape started out beautifully, translucent red, nice lighter style mix of savory and fruit, some garrigue. I am not a huge Grenache fan but this was striking all the right notes for me.

About an hour into the bottle it shut down quite hard, turned very lean and all structure. The leftovers on day 2 were not drinkable either. I was thinking at first this would be a nice Chateauneuf for early drinking, but now I have no idea. Any guidance that fans of this wine that can give as to when this will open again would be appreciated.

2008 Az. Ag. Antoniotti Odilio Bramaterra was very lovely and never shut down over several hours. 13.5% abv.

From the Dressner website:
From their oldest vines, in a high elevation vineyard on porphyry soils that drain extremely quickly
and are full of minerals and nutrients. The vinification is the same as the last two wines. The wine is
aged in large botti of at least 1250 liters in underground cellars for at least 30 months, then in bottle
for 6 months before release. It is 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 7% Vespolina and 3% Bonarda.

This had great aromatics, a little high toned, with a mix of roses and dried red fruits. Fans of Sella Lessona and Ferrando Carema would like this, although it's closer to the Carema white label then black. Clean fruit, no noticeable oak, very fine tannins, with just a little bit of the mouth drying, teeth coating dryness the more southern Piedmont Nebbiolo is famous for. Open, expressive and drinking very well, but balanced and should age too. An easy repurchase for me. It was around $28.
Drinking this made me think of Luca M. If any of you see him, tell him hello and to please come back.
 
originally posted by Marc D:

2008 Az. Ag. Antoniotti Odilio Bramaterra was very lovely and never shut down over several hours. 13.5% abv.

From the Dressner website:
From their oldest vines, in a high elevation vineyard on porphyry soils that drain extremely quickly
and are full of minerals and nutrients. The vinification is the same as the last two wines. The wine is
aged in large botti of at least 1250 liters in underground cellars for at least 30 months, then in bottle
for 6 months before release. It is 70% Nebbiolo, 20% Croatina, 7% Vespolina and 3% Bonarda.

This had great aromatics, a little high toned, with a mix of roses and dried red fruits. Fans of Sella Lessona and Ferrando Carema would like this, although it's closer to the Carema white label then black. Clean fruit, no noticeable oak, very fine tannins, with just a little bit of the mouth drying, teeth coating dryness the more southern Piedmont Nebbiolo is famous for. Open, expressive and drinking very well, but balanced and should age too. An easy repurchase for me. It was around $28.
Drinking this made me think of Luca M. If any of you see him, tell him hello and to please come back.

Coolio, Marc. I've got some of this stashed away and, being a fan of both Sella and Ferrando, I'm rather chuffed to read your description. Thanks!

Mark Lipton
 
I haven't had the 08 Charvin in awhile. People spoke about it being shut down a year after release, as I remember, maybe a couple of years ago. The 04 also acted this way and was quite mute for a couple ofyears. It has come out as a beautifully elegant wine. I think you are describing the other end of the same phenomenon. That they are starting to open up so soon may mean that they will not be the longest lived of his CdP. But as I have written here, I tasted a 93 CdP there last year at this time and it was still quite nice. Indeed, though I have never yet tasted his 91, 92, 96 or 97 (he's been making them since 1990), I've yet to taste a Charvin wine that is over the hill.

The 08 CdR is doing wonderfully right now, by the way and the 07, which I just tasted with Laurent, is surprisingly vibrant for the vintage (or even not for the vintage). For the CdPs, my line in the sand for the moment is the 06. I'm not drinking anything younger than that.

The 00 CdP had the longest closed period I've experienced with his wines. It made me start to doubt the vintage. It came around beautifully a couple of years ago.
 
On the basis of much less experience, I am happy to predict that the 2008 will be great from 2016-2024. It will likely be lovely before and after as well, but how much on either side is a bit of a crapshoot. I really liked the examples I tried before they shut down.
 
originally posted by Marc D:

Drinking this made me think of Luca M. If any of you see him, tell him hello and to please come back.
Amen. Only met him once, but i've learned a ton about Italian wine from him.
 
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