Barrel madness

SFJoe

Joe Dougherty
OK, everyone has their preferences about new or old oak, high toast, low toast. But how about this news?

France, November 25th 2008

Oak barrels get smart

by Sophie Kevany

Leading French barrel maker, Seguin Moreau, is to produce a range of flavour enhancing wine barrels for commercial use by 2011.

We have been working on this for the last five years, to identify the particular chemical molecules [in the wood] that create certain characteristics in the wine, explained Philippe Rapacz, Seguin Moreau chairman.

The barrels, which Rapacz calls intelligent, will, he says, be able to enhance certain flavours, such as red fruit, tannins or spices, in the wines aged in them.

The idea of using barrels to enhance certain flavours is not new, but so far it has been limited to how much toast the process of burning the barrels interior a barrel is given.

The idea of a flavour-enhancing barrel, which is bound to cause controversy, was welcomed by some in Bordeaux, while others argued the aim of barrel aging is not to flavour the wine.

Why not, it sounds interesting, said Thierry Haberer, the Bordeaux based technical director for the Michel Rolland family vineyards. Haberer said he would need to experiment with the barrels, but that controlling another detail of winemaking, such as this, could be positive.

However, Stephen Carrier, director of Chateau Fieuzal in Pessac Leognan, disagreed. For the top chateaux barrel aging is for clarifying the wine, improving the colour and to very slowly oxygenate it. It is not to give flavours, he said, the same argument many winemakers use against oak chips.

Seguin Moreau is owned by Oeneo, Frances leading barrel and cork supplier. Last week Seguin Moreau announced it was expanding its range of wood solutions to include oak chips, after it purchased 49% of Bois France, Frances number one oak chip producer. The move will take advantage of swiftly increasing European demand for oak chips, since they were legalised for use in European winemaking in 2007.
 
Great! Now wine can go the way of coffee. We've already got mocha and vanilla flavors from oak. But maybe now we can get hazelnut, caramel, and, to finally put to rest all those what-to-serve-with-Thanksgiving-dinner queries, pumpkin spice. I can hardly wait...
 
I'm telling you guys, breathable plastic barrels and convection toasted oak spirals. Total control. Any flavor you like.
 
originally posted by David M. Bueker:
Can I get a skinny half-caf caramel machiato pinot noir please? Hold the foam.

definitely this is the correct wave of the future. i'd like to see blend your own offerings at starbucks-like wine bars: you order your base red, 2 oak chips (light toast), a shot of oregon pinot, a splash of rioja, and a capful of auzzie grenache and voila - personalized frappuvino. let the masses train the wineries!!! that's the way it should be. steer everyone over in that direction, and then i'll quietly get back to drinking wine that smells like dirt, rocks and flowers and goes great with food.
 
originally posted by Kay Bixler:
I'm telling you guys, breathable plastic barrels and convection toasted oak spirals. Total control. Any flavor you like.
You know, Damien Laureau in Savnennieres, who is not a spoof character and who does not AFAIK use convection toasted oak spirals, definitely does use breathable fiberglass vessels for his wines, at least some of them. (I'm away from my notes and forget which).

So it's possible to turn the evil genius to good.
 
so winemakers already have a choice of flavors/aromatics capable of being imparted to the wine from a range of oak types, barrel styles, sizes and ages. pardon my rudimentary level of understanding here, but what is this barrel maker proposing that is different from what is already available?
 
You know, this isn't going to stop.
The Scott's lab page on artificial tannins that Kay posted, these new barrels, oak chips and spirals, RO . . . we've only scratched the surface of what's already available let alone what will be. I've got catalogs full of suggestions.
Lots of choices, each of which defines not only the wine one makes but one's way.
All the more reason to get acquainted with your winemakers and search out those who choose the way you prefer.
'Won't be easy; shouldn't be.
Best, Jim
 
originally posted by Florida Jim:
You know, this isn't going to stop.
The Scott's lab page on artificial tannins that Kay posted, these new barrels, oak chips and spirals, RO . . . we've only scratched the surface of what's already available let alone what will be. I've got catalogs full of suggestions.
Lots of choices, each of which defines not only the wine one makes but one's way.
All the more reason to get acquainted with your winemakers and search out those who choose the way you prefer.
'Won't be easy; shouldn't be.
Best, Jim


or the "old-fashioned" way
 
originally posted by David M. Bueker:
Can I get a skinny half-caf caramel machiato pinot noir please? Hold the foam.

Come on, everyone knows that passion fruit pinot is the best! Caramel pinot is so last year!
 
However, Stephen Carrier, director of Chateau Fieuzal in Pessac Leognan, disagreed. "For the top chateaux barrel aging is for clarifying the wine, improving the colour and to very slowly oxygenate it. It is not to give flavours," he said, the same argument many winemakers use against oak chips.
I'm sorry, but this quote is just silly. Unless the top chateaux are all using completely neutral barrels, then this is totally laughable. Of course oak is used to impart flavor. And I've never heard a winemaker say that they randomly pick barrels - they always have favorites based upon the flavors they impart to the specific wine(s).

originally posted by Joel Stewart:
so winemakers already have a choice of flavors/aromatics capable of being imparted to the wine from a range of oak types, barrel styles, sizes and ages. pardon my rudimentary level of understanding here, but what is this barrel maker proposing that is different from what is already available?
Your understanding is spot on. The flavors that they're talking about already exist - they're just trying to better understand what causes them and to better deliver specific flavor notes to the winemaker. If anyone thinks that winemakers don't count on certain barrels to give them specific flavor profiles, you're deluding yourself :) And why do barrel producers make a bunch of different barrel types (forests, toast levels, etc) if there aren't flavor differences? Unless all us winemakers are delusional (which is actually probably true on many levels).

I think the real question is why SM feels they need to isolate these flavors when they already exist. My guess is to provide a more uniform product. As it is, you can put the same exact wine in 10 of the same barrels (ie producer, forest, toast, etc) and the resulting wine from each of the barrels will taste different. Most will be similar, but some will standout as markedly different. Maybe if they can figure out certain differences within the individual staves, they can better homogenize the staves across barrels and make slight adjustments in the toasting process. Thereby creating a more standard flavor profile.

If my assumption is correct, I'm not sure I'd be interested. One reason we use barrels from 7 different producers and get a few different forests and varying levels of toast is to add some additional complexity to our single vineyard wines. If the barrels were completely uniform, I think we might lose some of that. I can't say it'd actually be better or worse without trying, so I don't really know. Maybe if each producer's barrels were more uniform in flavor, I could better determine which barrels to use - since the randomness factor had been removed.
 
Flavor extensions. Potato chips, ketchup, wine, makes no difference. Would just love to see if any barrel makers follow.
 
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