TN: Two impressive '10 Chateauneufs

Brad Kane

Brad Kane
Had a couple of '10 Chateauneufs today that really impressed me.

2010 Domaine Saint Préfert- Chateauneuf-du-Pape Réserve Auguste Favier - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Quite a sexy wine, this. Extremely fragrant with floral tones and sweet crushed berries with hints of spice. Just a wonderful, silky and seductive mouthfeel. Not one I would necessarily call traditional, but not one I'd call modern, either as I get no wood on here. Rather, it seems to straddle the line nicely, with perhaps more emphasis on the fruit and mouthfeel with perhaps the exclusion of some rusticity. Raspberry kirsch and black raspberries that are ripe and sweet, but not roasted. A surprising lack of game or furry elements and the spice doesn't quite have the herbal elements of garrigue, but there are nice violet and lavender notes. More approachable than the Vieux Donjon that followed and ultimately a little less complex, but this is lovely. A-/A.

2010 Le Vieux Donjon- Chateauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Chateauneuf-du-Pape
Man, is this good. It's a big, but well balanced wine that really needs some time to unfurl, but the goods are there. Initially the classic iodine/seaweed, black olive, meat, violet and garrigue profile was out in front, with the black fruit tight fisted. With air, though, rich blackberry and black raspberry fruit came up with a vengeance and the sweet tannins did a bit of a rope a dope in the mouth. That said, however, like the Saint Prefert Reserve, there's a real sexiness to the wine and that's not something I would normally say about Vieux Donjon. Complex and just full of everything I like about Chateauneuf. My favorite VD since the stellar '98. It definitely needs some decant time to enjoy now, though. Solid A.
 
originally posted by Cliff:
I thought VD went to the dark side, as it were. What gives?

What Eric said. St. Prefert is also a Cambie and an Isabel Ferrando wine. Note Brad's use of words like sexy, seductive, silky, the sibilant giveaways. Kane is alas only too right in these descriptors. He might as well have said hedonistic, though I thank him for his restraint.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Brian C:
When did the change go down at VD? I haven't bought one since 05.

I have read somewhere that it happened around 2000. To my taste, though, the change occurred with the 2003 vintage.

I saw 2002 in an article. I haven't liked any CDP from '03, but I have enjoyed the '04, '05 and '06 VD. To my tastes everything about Vieux Donjon is there, though perhaps with a touch cleaner fruit and a slightly silkier mouthfeel. VD historically could be a pretty chunky wine and I think maybe it's been tamed a little, but the overall character has remained the same. I'm certainly not going to apologize for liking it because of Cambie's involvement.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
originally posted by Brian C:
When did the change go down at VD? I haven't bought one since 05.

I have read somewhere that it happened around 2000. To my taste, though, the change occurred with the 2003 vintage.

I saw 2002 in an article. I haven't liked any CDP from '03, but I have enjoyed the '04, '05 and '06 VD. To my tastes everything about Vieux Donjon is there, though perhaps with a touch cleaner fruit and a slightly silkier mouthfeel. VD historically could be a pretty chunky wine and I think maybe it's been tamed a little, but the overall character has remained the same. I'm certainly not going to apologize for liking it because of Cambie's involvement.

I've also tasted the 04, 05 and 06. After that, I gave up. The change was sufficiently marked for me. There are wines for which Cambie is a consultant that, to my own self-doubt, I have very much liked. This is not one of them.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
There are wines for which Cambie is a consultant that, to my own self-doubt, I have very much liked.

I don't know what he has changed at Monpertuis, but I enjoy the wines.
 
originally posted by Jonathan Loesberg:
an Isabel Ferrando wine. Note Brad's use of words like sexy, seductive

That's Isabel, all right. Not sure it describes her wines for me, though.

For Ch“teauneuf, I used to have a small stable of acceptables, but these days (without searching around for more), I'm down to Texier's C9s, and even there, as a personal preference, I'd put the not-unlimited funds out for other wines than the C9, as much as I admire his C9s. Any chance we could get a Bandol from him?
 
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