Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
In the private room at Picholine, eleven happy diners were served eight courses. The birthday boy often could not settle on one dish so half the table got the 'a' and half got the 'b' plates, while the 'c' plates were matched to various allergies and eating prefs.
Terence Brennan visited for a few minutes. We talked about changes to the room since we were last here (1998, but it seems like 15 years ago...) and other topics. He noticed that one of the ladies was fanning herself and asked if he should adjust the thermostat. We did our best to politely decline his kind offer but he pressed us for an explanation and, well, let's say he is not always quick on the draw.
Menu
Hors d'Oeuvres - Wild Mushroom Arancine, Croque Monsieur, Foie Gras Tartine, Game "Chips"
wine: Ruinart, Champagne Brut Rose
Amuse Varie
1a. Nantucket Scallops Cru - Smoked Ricotta, Perigord Truffles, Bergamot
1b. Sea Urchin Panna Cotta - Chilled Ocean Consommé, Caviar
1c. Pear Carpaccio - Gorgonzola "Chocolate", Endive, Walnut Crumble
wine: Willi Schaefer 2005 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese
2a. Celery Root-Apple Agnolotti - Wild Game Bolognese, Celery Tempura
2b. Foie Gras "Shabu Shabu" - Sweet and Sour Duck Bouillon
2c. Crab and Avocado Roulade - Pickled Daikon, Citrus-Espelette Emulsion
wine: Daniel-Etienne Defaix 2002 Chablis "Cote de Lechet" 1er Cru
3a. Sweetbreads Saltimbocca - Mangalitsa Prosciutto, Sage, Kumquat Mostarda
3b. "Bacon and Eggs" - Brussels Sprouts "Carbonara", Polenta, Guanciale
3c. Black Sea Bass - Cauliflower Arancini, Cucumbers, Curry Emulsion
wine: Arcadian 2001 Pinot Noir "Sleepy Hollow Vineyard", Santa Maria Valley
4a. Slow Poached Lobster - Squid Ink Fideos, "Romesco" Pimenton de la Vera
4b. Black Sea Bass - Cauliflower Arancini, Cucumbers, Curry Emulsion
4c. Four Story Hills Farm Poularde - Cipollini Aigre-doux, Kale, Foie Gras Albufera
wine: J. J. Prum 1983 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
5a. Wild Scottish Hare - Huckleberries, Chocolate Granola, Ginger Snap Cloud
5b. Wild Scottish Partridge - Foie Gras Pain Perdu, Wild Mushrooms, Compressed Apple
wine: G. Roumier 1993 Chambolle-Musigny
6. Spring Brook Farm Raclette - "Fondue", Puffed, Madeira Powder
7. Yogurt Mousse - Huckleberry Gelée, Oatmeal Crumble
8. Chocolate Contrasts - Crémeux, Fondant, Dehydrated "Sponge", Cocoa Nib Sorbet
wine: Taylor 1963 Vintage Port
Petits Fours and Chocolates
Food highlights... I am not a big admirer of sea urchin but the panna cotta suited me very nicely. Both the saltimbocca and the carbonara were rich and satisfying, the first highlighted by the sharply citrus mostarda and the second stabbed with green bitterness even through the runny yolk. The fragrance of the lobster and pimenton was memorable. The hare was amazing: dark as venison and tender as polenta, and the little crunchy-sweet nuggets provided both flavor and textural balance.
Wine highlights (no TNs taken at the table):
The Schaefer was a last-minute substitution. The original wine chosen for the dish was Egon Muller 1979 "Scharzhofberger" Riesling Auslese but neither of the two bottles she opened were good enough for the sommelier to pass onto us. (I tasted the second one... nice enough nose, and a long tangy finish but totally void in the mid-palate; odd to taste a wine for a few seconds, it disappears, and then returns retro-nasally 30 seconds later.) The Schaefer was vivid and lovely if a bit strong for the food.
The 2nd plate is impossible to match, anyway (game bolognese, sweet-sour foie, and crabmeat?!). I liked the Defaix. It was a bit restrained but pure and seashelly. I asked about provenance and the sommelier said they were obtained before her employment here.
The Arcadian was gorgeous; no cola, no cherry, but lots of earth and moss and dark red fruits.
The Prum was golden in the glass and sweet silk in the mouth.
The Roumier was stinky, though that blew off. Not a powerful wine but complex enough to stand with the game meats.
The Taylor was just past peak. Any spirity burn or thickness of texture were gone; its wine-ness was coming through in dark red fruits and just a little extra body.
Overall, the kitchen and the cellar both did splendid work.
Terence Brennan visited for a few minutes. We talked about changes to the room since we were last here (1998, but it seems like 15 years ago...) and other topics. He noticed that one of the ladies was fanning herself and asked if he should adjust the thermostat. We did our best to politely decline his kind offer but he pressed us for an explanation and, well, let's say he is not always quick on the draw.
Menu
Hors d'Oeuvres - Wild Mushroom Arancine, Croque Monsieur, Foie Gras Tartine, Game "Chips"
wine: Ruinart, Champagne Brut Rose
Amuse Varie
1a. Nantucket Scallops Cru - Smoked Ricotta, Perigord Truffles, Bergamot
1b. Sea Urchin Panna Cotta - Chilled Ocean Consommé, Caviar
1c. Pear Carpaccio - Gorgonzola "Chocolate", Endive, Walnut Crumble
wine: Willi Schaefer 2005 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese
2a. Celery Root-Apple Agnolotti - Wild Game Bolognese, Celery Tempura
2b. Foie Gras "Shabu Shabu" - Sweet and Sour Duck Bouillon
2c. Crab and Avocado Roulade - Pickled Daikon, Citrus-Espelette Emulsion
wine: Daniel-Etienne Defaix 2002 Chablis "Cote de Lechet" 1er Cru
3a. Sweetbreads Saltimbocca - Mangalitsa Prosciutto, Sage, Kumquat Mostarda
3b. "Bacon and Eggs" - Brussels Sprouts "Carbonara", Polenta, Guanciale
3c. Black Sea Bass - Cauliflower Arancini, Cucumbers, Curry Emulsion
wine: Arcadian 2001 Pinot Noir "Sleepy Hollow Vineyard", Santa Maria Valley
4a. Slow Poached Lobster - Squid Ink Fideos, "Romesco" Pimenton de la Vera
4b. Black Sea Bass - Cauliflower Arancini, Cucumbers, Curry Emulsion
4c. Four Story Hills Farm Poularde - Cipollini Aigre-doux, Kale, Foie Gras Albufera
wine: J. J. Prum 1983 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese
5a. Wild Scottish Hare - Huckleberries, Chocolate Granola, Ginger Snap Cloud
5b. Wild Scottish Partridge - Foie Gras Pain Perdu, Wild Mushrooms, Compressed Apple
wine: G. Roumier 1993 Chambolle-Musigny
6. Spring Brook Farm Raclette - "Fondue", Puffed, Madeira Powder
7. Yogurt Mousse - Huckleberry Gelée, Oatmeal Crumble
8. Chocolate Contrasts - Crémeux, Fondant, Dehydrated "Sponge", Cocoa Nib Sorbet
wine: Taylor 1963 Vintage Port
Petits Fours and Chocolates
Food highlights... I am not a big admirer of sea urchin but the panna cotta suited me very nicely. Both the saltimbocca and the carbonara were rich and satisfying, the first highlighted by the sharply citrus mostarda and the second stabbed with green bitterness even through the runny yolk. The fragrance of the lobster and pimenton was memorable. The hare was amazing: dark as venison and tender as polenta, and the little crunchy-sweet nuggets provided both flavor and textural balance.
Wine highlights (no TNs taken at the table):
The Schaefer was a last-minute substitution. The original wine chosen for the dish was Egon Muller 1979 "Scharzhofberger" Riesling Auslese but neither of the two bottles she opened were good enough for the sommelier to pass onto us. (I tasted the second one... nice enough nose, and a long tangy finish but totally void in the mid-palate; odd to taste a wine for a few seconds, it disappears, and then returns retro-nasally 30 seconds later.) The Schaefer was vivid and lovely if a bit strong for the food.
The 2nd plate is impossible to match, anyway (game bolognese, sweet-sour foie, and crabmeat?!). I liked the Defaix. It was a bit restrained but pure and seashelly. I asked about provenance and the sommelier said they were obtained before her employment here.
The Arcadian was gorgeous; no cola, no cherry, but lots of earth and moss and dark red fruits.
The Prum was golden in the glass and sweet silk in the mouth.
The Roumier was stinky, though that blew off. Not a powerful wine but complex enough to stand with the game meats.
The Taylor was just past peak. Any spirity burn or thickness of texture were gone; its wine-ness was coming through in dark red fruits and just a little extra body.
Overall, the kitchen and the cellar both did splendid work.