Bill Bounds
Bill Bounds
Last Saturday night (Feb 09 13) SueSue and I had omakase @ MF Sushibar Houston. MF Sushibar Houston is the latest reincarnation of MF Sushibar Ponce in Atlanta where SueSue and I had almost weekly omakase for 5 years. Needless to say, we were thrilled to have another opportunity after more than 6 years.
In Atlanta MF Sushibar Ponce was owned by Chris and Alex Kinjo; Chris was the sushi chef. It was a small restaurant that took Atlanta by storm it came out of nowhere to being the top sushi restaurant in Atlanta. As the Chinese saying goes: “success sows the seeds of failure.” The success of MF Sushibar Ponce lead to MF Sushibar Buckhead, an 8000 sq. ft. restaurant that was a perfect blend of Asian décor with a pure modernist theme a great combination of beauty and subtlety. The restaurant opened just in time for the big crash of 2008. After a couple of troubled years the restaurant closed. Chris’ sushi style in those days was wildly creative with lots of sashimi and creative combinations. It was easily the most intellectual and sensual food that I have ever eaten.
Today Chris has completely evolved away from that style of sushi and the large restaurant. The restaurant is modest in size with only 60 seats. Walking into the restaurant was like a time machine for SueSue and me. There behind the counter were Miguel, Chris, David, and Masa in the very same positions as they were in at MF Sushibar Ponce. It was a magical experience for all of us as we recognized each other. SueSue and I walked down the line with huge smiles, and each chef reached out a fist for a bump from us. What a great start to our meal. There are 14 seats at the sushi counter and the counter seats are reserved for omakase. Only Chris prepares the omakase courses; the other chefs only feed the room.
Here’s our omakase menu pieced together from our memory and the dinner check:
1. Shimi Aji (N) (striped jack)
2. Akamutsu (Bluefish (red))
3. King salmon belly (sa)
4. Shima Aji (sa)
5. Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper) (N)
6. Oyster
7. Maguro
8. Tai (N)
9. Toro (N)
10. Hamachi belly
11. Anago (sea eel)
12. Ocean trout
13. Chutoro
14. Monkfish paté
15. Shime Saba (Japanese pickled mackerel)
16. Tamago (N)
17. Sawagani (river crabs)
18. Shishamou (smelt)
19. Kawahagi
20. Yamaimo (mountain potato)
21. Marinated Japanese black cod
Each sushi course came one piece at a time, and each piece was perfect. We paired our dinner with 2009 Puffney Arbois M Poulsard from the Jura and a 2011 Pomponette ( a beautiful Grenache rose from Provence); we kept the wines light out of respect for both the sushi and for us knowing we had a long dinner in front of us.
At the end of the dinner and as the restaurant slowed down, Chris came out to talk with us. It was very touching. Chris spoke of what he had learned over the last few years personally, business-wise, and with his sushi. It was clear that he was entering a whole new chapter in his life. He only wants to make “pure” sushi and only on a scale that is sustainable. For him now, it isn’t about creativity but rather dedication to the journey toward perfect sushi. He is trying to live Jiro’s vision in “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” I will miss the incredibly creative dishes like sashimi scallop with uni and a truffle slice, but I also know that this is a far greater commitment by Chris to succeed on a much more difficult quest. It was a thrill to see this new version of Chris. We will be back many times.
Oh, one other thought. I asked Chris how he assembled the old crew; how did he talk them into moving to Houston. His answer told us a lot about Chris and his leadership. He said that when he came to Houston he envisioned starting from scratch and training a new staff of sushi chefs. But each of the chefs called Chris and asked if they could come to Houston to be a part of MF Sushibar again.
Rock on Magic Fingers, you Mother Fucker.
best,
bill
In Atlanta MF Sushibar Ponce was owned by Chris and Alex Kinjo; Chris was the sushi chef. It was a small restaurant that took Atlanta by storm it came out of nowhere to being the top sushi restaurant in Atlanta. As the Chinese saying goes: “success sows the seeds of failure.” The success of MF Sushibar Ponce lead to MF Sushibar Buckhead, an 8000 sq. ft. restaurant that was a perfect blend of Asian décor with a pure modernist theme a great combination of beauty and subtlety. The restaurant opened just in time for the big crash of 2008. After a couple of troubled years the restaurant closed. Chris’ sushi style in those days was wildly creative with lots of sashimi and creative combinations. It was easily the most intellectual and sensual food that I have ever eaten.
Today Chris has completely evolved away from that style of sushi and the large restaurant. The restaurant is modest in size with only 60 seats. Walking into the restaurant was like a time machine for SueSue and me. There behind the counter were Miguel, Chris, David, and Masa in the very same positions as they were in at MF Sushibar Ponce. It was a magical experience for all of us as we recognized each other. SueSue and I walked down the line with huge smiles, and each chef reached out a fist for a bump from us. What a great start to our meal. There are 14 seats at the sushi counter and the counter seats are reserved for omakase. Only Chris prepares the omakase courses; the other chefs only feed the room.
Here’s our omakase menu pieced together from our memory and the dinner check:
1. Shimi Aji (N) (striped jack)
2. Akamutsu (Bluefish (red))
3. King salmon belly (sa)
4. Shima Aji (sa)
5. Kinmedai (Golden Eye Snapper) (N)
6. Oyster
7. Maguro
8. Tai (N)
9. Toro (N)
10. Hamachi belly
11. Anago (sea eel)
12. Ocean trout
13. Chutoro
14. Monkfish paté
15. Shime Saba (Japanese pickled mackerel)
16. Tamago (N)
17. Sawagani (river crabs)
18. Shishamou (smelt)
19. Kawahagi
20. Yamaimo (mountain potato)
21. Marinated Japanese black cod
Each sushi course came one piece at a time, and each piece was perfect. We paired our dinner with 2009 Puffney Arbois M Poulsard from the Jura and a 2011 Pomponette ( a beautiful Grenache rose from Provence); we kept the wines light out of respect for both the sushi and for us knowing we had a long dinner in front of us.
At the end of the dinner and as the restaurant slowed down, Chris came out to talk with us. It was very touching. Chris spoke of what he had learned over the last few years personally, business-wise, and with his sushi. It was clear that he was entering a whole new chapter in his life. He only wants to make “pure” sushi and only on a scale that is sustainable. For him now, it isn’t about creativity but rather dedication to the journey toward perfect sushi. He is trying to live Jiro’s vision in “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” I will miss the incredibly creative dishes like sashimi scallop with uni and a truffle slice, but I also know that this is a far greater commitment by Chris to succeed on a much more difficult quest. It was a thrill to see this new version of Chris. We will be back many times.
Oh, one other thought. I asked Chris how he assembled the old crew; how did he talk them into moving to Houston. His answer told us a lot about Chris and his leadership. He said that when he came to Houston he envisioned starting from scratch and training a new staff of sushi chefs. But each of the chefs called Chris and asked if they could come to Houston to be a part of MF Sushibar again.
Rock on Magic Fingers, you Mother Fucker.
best,
bill
