Vinyl

SFJoe

Joe Dougherty
Yesterday was pretty much spring perfection here in NYC. A few puffy cumulus clouds decorated the piercingly blue sky, there was a little breeze, and it was more or less cellar temperature.

I found occasion to walk around Brooklyn, taking in many adventures not relevant to this tale. After a long walk, I was in the southern part of Red Hook, at the tasting room of the winery of that name. I would note parenthetically that the commercial parts of Red Hook were looking remarkably recovered from the horrific floods of Sandy. Bars and restaurants were full on a beautiful Saturday afternoon, there was a lot of warmth in the cool air. Fairway is back. Pete Wells reported recently on the neighborhood resurgence. The Wells piece includes some nice pictures of the Red Hook Winery in addition to other places in the neighborhood.

So, enough with the civic boosterism and on with the harsh words. This is Wine disorder, after all. I have a question for the assembled brain trust about a unifying phenomenon in most of the wines I tried yesterday. To a greater or lesser degree, most of them had a vinyl note, what Chris has called "beanbag chair." I have found this in other wines from Long Island (the source of most of the grapes for both the Foley and Schoener sides of the winery). One thought is that it might be a note from incompletely seasoned wood, though the only barrels I could see through the interior window of the tasting room were Francois Freres.

Is the flavor from the inimitable terroir of the glacial moraine of the North Fork? Is it a consequence of the uniform typicite of cellar practice among Long Island winemakers? I don't have broad enough experience of the wines of the Island to know.

Can anyone advise?
 
I know exactly what you are talking about and have tasted it in many Long Island wines.

I have asked Abe and Christopher (onsite winemaker at Red Hook) and no one can give me an answer.

My guess is that it is something in the soils on Long Island.

Also I should note it is interesting that Abe and Foley have such different winemaking styles that it can't come from the winemaking.
 
Shower curtain. Love the reach-not so much the grasp on those wines. Really lovely guys. Never groove on what's in the glass. Hope they keep on seeking even if I'm not a buyer.
 
what Chris has called "beanbag chair."

As a child of the 70s, my family had a lemon-yellow beanbag chair in our TV room. I thought it was teh awesome and used to claim it for my own and watch Checkers and Pogo, Ultraman and Gigantor from its warm confines. I can still smell that smell.
 
Kay, it's an interesting point. I think the North Fork vineyards get a lot of fungal pressure during humid summers, but I was surprised to see the uniformity across different vintages, cepages, and vineyard sources. They can't all be harvesting rotten grapes every time.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Kay, it's an interesting point. I think the North Fork vineyards get a lot of fungal pressure during humid summers, but I was surprised to see the uniformity across different vintages, cepages, and vineyard sources. They can't all be harvesting rotten grapes every time.

Maybe there's something to this. Powdery mildew is definitely an issue for NY growers.
 
originally posted by David Erickson:
originally posted by SFJoe:
Kay, it's an interesting point. I think the North Fork vineyards get a lot of fungal pressure during humid summers, but I was surprised to see the uniformity across different vintages, cepages, and vineyard sources. They can't all be harvesting rotten grapes every time.

Maybe there's something to this. Powdery mildew is definitely an issue for NY growers.

I'd think downy mildew would be a bigger issue in that climate.
 
originally posted by Scott Kraft:
Maybe something that was put in the soil back in the potato heydays?

IIRC vinyl showed up as a common characteristic in either 1999 L d'Or or Briords? I don't remember which.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
originally posted by Scott Kraft:
Maybe something that was put in the soil back in the potato heydays?

IIRC vinyl showed up as a common characteristic in either 1999 L d'Or or Briords? I don't remember which.
The young Briords, though you wouldn't know it now.

I remember the experience of trying that wine when it first arrived (it was awful), but unfortunately I can't recall the taste clearly enough to try to compare.

Where is Neal Rosenthal when you need him?
 
Kay,
Would you agree that it is less prominent now than it was on release in the '99?

I'm done with my '97 Briords, still have a few '99s. Haven't had one lately.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Kay,
Would you agree that it is less prominent now than it was on release in the '99?

I'm done with my '97 Briords, still have a few '99s. Haven't had one lately.

Oh yeah, the '99 has come a long way. The '97 went the opposite direction though, from lovely to strange. Holding a few to see if they turn over again.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I remember the experience of trying that wine when it first arrived (it was awful), but unfortunately I can't recall the taste clearly enough to try to compare.

Where is Neal Rosenthal when you need him?

.sasha, I believe Neal Rosenthal claims to remember everything he has ever tasted.

That or he used to be a shower-curtain salesman.
 
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