TN: the somnambulist walks through 9 wines

originally posted by Seth Hill:
I am familiar with Salvo Foti, Terre Nere, and Passopisciaro. Would you hazard an opinion as to how the Faro compares?
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I think that the at it's best Faro is a more subtle wine and nuanced wine than what is offered from Terre Nere, and certainly surpasses Passopisciaro "Passopisciaro" in those regards as well (the Franchetti is just an entirely different animal). I also think that Faro ages better than the wines from Terre Nere up to this point, and certainly better that Passo "Passo". But then Faro contains a bit of Nero d'Avola (disguised under the nomenclature "Calabrese") and I think that this is an important point. Terre Nere is one or both of the Nerello family, depending on the bottling, and Passo "Passo" is all Nerello Mascalese, which I believe in the later case sees partial carbonic maceration. My limited experience would indicate that Nero d'Avola has much more potential for ageing and development over the medium and long term than Nerello. This has been borne out by the evidence of Riserva del Conte '98 and '83, both tasted in this year, both excellent, while the later was stunning in fact. So perhaps Faro has a bit of an edge for medium term development. More own experience is that that is certainly the case.

I only know Salvo Foti through his work at Gulfi and Passopisciaro, not through the Foti label itself (which I hope to try soon). If you were to ask me which is the more amazing winery right now in Sicily, Palari or another, I would probably tip my hat towards Gulfi. But then there isn't anything that Gulfi produces that is directly comparable to the wines from Palari, and it is in a different zone.

Really, all the wines, as well as those from Benanti, COS, and Occhipinti, are worthy of attention. And some are quite good value (Gulfi wines on the low-end, for example). At least I think so. Let me conclude by saying that the wines are not generally at the heights of, say, Grand Cru Burgundy, but that they are significantly better than 99% of the drinking public realizes, and that this is true for both colors.
 
I have mentioned before that the '01s from Sella are said to have seen more oak than usual because Dante was not directly overseeing the vinification in that year.
 
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
In other words the Omaggio would be the more obvious choice for denizens of this board.
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Why does everyone make assumptions about what people on this bored like? I happen to find high quality oak quite pleasant in certain wines. I like my Chassagne to have a little dollop. I like Pithon wines.

To me excessive oaky-ness is a symptom, never the problem itself.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
originally posted by Seth Hill:
I am familiar with Salvo Foti, Terre Nere, and Passopisciaro. Would you hazard an opinion as to how the Faro compares?
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I only know Salvo Foti through his work at Gulfi and Passopisciaro, not through the Foti label itself (which I hope to try soon).
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It's the schiznit. You'll love it.
 
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
In other words the Omaggio would be the more obvious choice for denizens of this board.
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Why does everyone make assumptions about what people on this bored like? I happen to find high quality oak quite pleasant in certain wines. I like my Chassagne to have a little dollop. I like Pithon wines.

To me excessive oaky-ness is a symptom, never the problem itself.
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Speaking only for myself, the assumption about oak comes from the kind of wines people here write about approvingly; and perhaps the projection that I myself like obvious oak less and less.

I should add that the use of up to 100% small new wood has been traditional in certain fine french wines for ages, which is not at all the case in Italy. In other words I would say that the use of overt new wood in Italian wine is almost always a symptom of a problem.
 
Levi,
Thanks for the reminder of Gulfi and the heads up on Benanti, which is new to me.

I don't have _any_ experience with aged Nero myself, but am glad to hear my impression borne out by your del Contes. Was there much of the barrique left after 10 years or 25?

And while I'm not sure about Grand Cru, I'd put Occhipinti's Frappato up against many 1er Cru Volnays without a second thought. It shows so well young, and I'd love to see what happens on down the road. Unfortunately, we've had a bit of a problem with some of her corks (leaky more than TCA, and seeping out even through the wax), so finding the right bottles to cellar will be a bit tricky.
 
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
originally posted by VLM:
originally posted by Oliver McCrum:
In other words the Omaggio would be the more obvious choice for denizens of this board.
Click to expand...

Why does everyone make assumptions about what people on this bored like? I happen to find high quality oak quite pleasant in certain wines. I like my Chassagne to have a little dollop. I like Pithon wines.

To me excessive oaky-ness is a symptom, never the problem itself.
Click to expand...

Speaking only for myself, the assumption about oak comes from the kind of wines people here write about approvingly; and perhaps the projection that I myself like obvious oak less and less.

I should add that the use of up to 100% small new wood has been traditional in certain fine french wines for ages, which is not at all the case in Italy. In other words I would say that the use of overt new wood in Italian wine is almost always a symptom of a problem.
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I think we are in complete agreement.

I assume that the people on this bored are foodies. I hope I'm not projecting.
 
originally posted by Seth Hill:
I don't have _any_ experience with aged Nero myself, but am glad to hear my impression borne out by your del Contes. Was there much of the barrique left after 10 years or 25?
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In the '98, yes, in the '83 no. The '83 was a pretty great amalgam of slurpable fruit and developed tertiary character. Very easy for anyone to love, really. Because most people generally get excited by slurpable fruit OR by developed character, and to have both is a pretty strong ticket to run with, IMHO.

I opened up a 1970 Riserva del Conte last month, however, and that was vinegar, so there may be some limit to Nero d'Avola's endurance.

I have found bottle variation with the 2006 Il Frappato from Occhipinti, but at the same time I have liked all the variations.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
I have found bottle variation with the 2006 Il Frappato from Occhipinti, but at the same time I have liked all the variations.
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Agreed on the variations all being pleasant. Just with seepage through wax on some of the bottles I'm a bit concerned with the long term.

I've been a bit more confounded by the Nero- I think it's just in a bit of an awkward spot right now, perhaps a little bottle shocked. Expectations are high for when I'll check back in a few weeks.
 
Seth,
Are the '06 leakers too? I experienced that with a few of the 2005s. The wine was very good, some a little bretty.
 
originally posted by Marc D:
Seth,
Are the '06 leakers too? I experienced that with a few of the 2005s. The wine was very good, some a little bretty.
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We've not seen any on the '06s. Looks like she got better corks, or at least has wax-dipped more thoroughly.
 
originally posted by Seth Hill:

And while I'm not sure about Grand Cru, I'd put Occhipinti's Frappato up against many 1er Cru Volnays without a second thought. It shows so well young, and I'd love to see what happens on down the road. Unfortunately, we've had a bit of a problem with some of her corks (leaky more than TCA, and seeping out even through the wax), so finding the right bottles to cellar will be a bit tricky.
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Frappato is an aromatic red variety, and I've never had one that aged, but who knows.
 
Domaine du Vissoux, Fleurie 'Poncie', 2005
From the super-spoof Beaujolais vintage
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The notion of a super-spoof vintage is a curious one. Wines were super-manipulated that year because of specific vintage conditions?
 
I find myself recommending the Occhipinti Nero d'Avola "Siccagno" 2006 quite a bit these days. It drinks very different than it drank at the DI tasting some time ago. It drinks different than it drank a few months ago when I first got it in. But I have really come around to it. There is perfume inside the texture of the wine. It is not so perfumed when you smell it, as when you taste it. And it carries a fairly large and dark fruit profile very lightly across the palate.

I dig it.
 
originally posted by Levi Dalton:
I find myself recommending the Occhipinti Nero d'Avola "Siccagno" 2006 quite a bit these days. It drinks very different than it drank at the DI tasting some time ago. It drinks different than it drank a few months ago when I first got it in. But I have really come around to it. There is perfume inside the texture of the wine. It is not so perfumed when you smell it, as when you taste it. And it carries a fairly large and dark fruit profile very lightly across the palate.

I dig it.
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I'll have to check in on it again. I loved it at the DI tasting, but when it arrived at the shop the first few bottles over a month or so were pretty disjointed. While I had every confidence it would knit itself together, it's good to hear that it has.
 
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