TN:Two Camhis are better than one as Howard Camhi comes back for more: Riesling, Burgundy, Bordeaux & Savennières

B

Brad Kane

Brad Kane
Only five or so weeks removed from his last visit, Howard Camhi was back in town again and this time I was able to get another Camhi around the dinner table. Suzanne Camhi was finally free to join Howard Chez Brad and Kenny Shusterman and Jay Miller also made the trek to the Upper East Side. With such a wild and crazy group, the only possible outcome was an evening full of hilarity and tasty wines!

2010 Zilliken- (Forstmeister Geltz) Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spätlese Auction #7 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Got the evening off to a great start. The wine was brilliant with a vivacious, yet focused personality. Aromatically effusive with passion fruit, peach and mineral trapping ones nose in the glass like a cat to catnip. Chipper acidity balances out the moderate sweetness perfectly. The passion fruit lends a racy character across the palate along with the steely mineral notes. Just a snappy and invigorating wine with terrific depth. A/A-.

1997 Domaine des Baumard- Savennières Trie Spéciale - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
Jay whips this out and announces that it was a gift from a mysterious stranger he bumped into in the confined quarters of the Chelsea Wine storage lockers. Somehow this stranger was under the impression that I'm a fan of this wine. Now, I've liked the '95 best of the Trie Speciale bottlings, but those bottlings are my least favorite in the Baumard Savennières lineup because of the malolactic fermentation they go through which gives the wines a plush, creamy mouthfeel while softening the acidic spine the other bottlings show. The '97 shows that clearly. Additionally, while there's pleasant quince, bitter almond, yellow floral tones and mineral present, there's also too much alcohol showing, which was a concern a number of us Loireheads had about many '97 whites on release. The alcohol was even more disjointed and obvious the next day when I went back to it. B.

1991 Bernard Amiot- Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Chatelots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
Quite perfumed on the nose with pretty cherry, underbrush and flower aromas. Elegant, classy and layered on the palate with nice purity to the fruit. Good red fruit levels, with dried flowers and a bit of spice. Plenty of secondary development and maybe just a touch of green on the back end. The finish also shows a light bitter licorice note and fades off just a touch. Quite nice, though. Low A-.

2002 Bouchard Père et Fils- Volnay 1er Cru Caillerets Ancienne Cuvée Carnot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
There's some decent crunchy red fruit here, but the wine is dominated by wood and there's just not enough fruit to ever absorb it all. In fact, the wine already shows signs that it's starting to dry out. Drink up while there's still fruit. B-/B.

2010 Nicolas Rossignol- Volnay 1er Cru Santenots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Quite a gregarious wine here. It's boisterous and brimming with ripe black and red fruit, purple flowers, spice and a hint of cocoa. Lush and fruit forward, though there's sound structure underneath. Eminently slurpable and enjoyable now, but it could use some time to come together. A-.

1978 Georges Noellat- Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Corked. NR (flawed)

1997 Edmunds St. John- Syrah Durell Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County
Corked. NR (flawed)

1986 Chateau Gruaud Larose - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Just a touch of Cordier funk on the nose with pleasing currant, herb, tobacco and chocolate aromas. Rather slow to unwind on the palate and I've had more forward bottles with greater fruit levels, but this is showing nicely. Nice development here with mellowed and harmonious fruit, earth, leather and herb flavors dominating with a nice smokey edge. Just a bit drying on the finish. Most bottles I've had of the '86 have shown better. In fact, it's one of my favorite vintages of Gruaud, but this bottle still puts a smile on my face. Low A-.

2005 Fritz Haag- Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Auction #14 - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
Riper, sweeter and showing a heavier mineral character than the Zilliken. The fruit is more in the orange color/tropical realm with nectarine, mango, guava and honey flavors and aromas. It still shows some youthful spritz and while ripe and densely textured, there's more than ample acidity to balance it out. Terrific wine. A/A-.

Some pictures from the evening.

The group.
The_group-9.JPG
The wines.
The_lineup-2.JPG
Morel and cremini risotto.
Morel_and_cremini_risotto.JPG
Pork tenderloin with leek purée and roasted baby Yukon gold potatoes with rosemary.
Pork_tenderloin_with_leek_puree_II.jpg
Bye, bye! Come again!
Bye_bye.JPG
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
Nice looking chow, except for the icky effect of the flash.
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You wouldn't see it well without the flash.

I forgot to take a pic of the peperonata bruschetta I made. Have to say, it came out well. I'll have to serve it again sometime.

Were you the mysterious stranger responsible for the Baumard?
 
I wouldn't be mysterious if I confessed, would I?

Is that really rice, potatoes, and polenta all at once? Oh, wait, it's leeks.
 
originally posted by SFJoe:
I wouldn't be mysterious if I confessed, would I?

Is that really rice, potatoes, and polenta all at once? Oh, wait, it's leeks.
Click to expand...

Yep, leeks with butter salt and pepper. Plus, the rice dish came before the dish with the potatoes, so not all at once. There was bread, too. With the apps and cheese dessert. Carb city!
 
The Santenots was all over the place first week of January, but had all the right parts, so the review does not surprise me.
 
1997 Domaine des Baumard- Savennières Trie Spéciale - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières
Jay whips this out and announces that it was a gift from a mysterious stranger he bumped into in the confined quarters of the Chelsea Wine storage lockers. Somehow this stranger was under the impression that I'm a fan of this wine. Now, I've liked the '95 best of the Trie Speciale bottlings, but those bottlings are my least favorite in the Baumard Savennières lineup because of the malolactic fermentation they go through which gives the wines a plush, creamy mouthfeel while softening the acidic spine the other bottlings show. The '97 shows that clearly. Additionally, while there's pleasant quince, bitter almond, yellow floral tones and mineral present, there's also too much alcohol showing, which was a concern a number of us Loireheads had about many '97 whites on release. The alcohol was even more disjointed and obvious the next day when I went back to it. B.
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Brad,

I have found some of Baumard's Clos du Papillons from that era (esp. 1997s) to be premoxed, but have not found that in the other two Savennieres. Have you had that experience at all?
 
I remember you raving about the 1997 on release (god that was a long time ago - my memory might conceivably be faulty) though you did prefer the 1995.

One of the reasons I brought the Durell was out of concern that the Amiot might be flawed. Mysteries abound.

The Amiot and the Zilliken both showed wonderfully though the Rossignol wasn't too far behind.

The cork on the 1986 Gruaud Larose was noticeably TCA affected. While I didn't get it on the wine that might have accounted for the slighly lesser showing. Though as Brad notes it was very nice. I'll admit to inverting the cork after double decanting.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I remember you raving about the 1997 on release (god that was a long time ago - my memory might conceivably be faulty) though you did prefer the 1995.
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I think you're confusing it with the '96 Baumard Clos Papillon, which was stunning on release and for the next few years before they became premoxed. So, to answer Howard, yes, I've experienced a lot of premox issues with Baumard Savennieres, mostly with the '96 Clos Papillon, to a lesser extent with the '95 Papillon and Trie Special and to an even lesser extent the '97s. The '97 Trie Speciale showed some oxidation, which I forgot to mention, but it's of the typical sort that one usually finds in Savennieres. I didn't find this bottle advanced at all. Just overly alcoholic.
 
Brad, was yours the consensus opinion on the Bouchard? Sorry to hear it's still dominated by all that wood.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane: Carb city!
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I actually find that quite helpful during a meal with lots of wines. Eating a salad and then fish with one of those silly carrot purees (or some other such item) posing as the 'starch' is a quick route to an imbalanced head if I'm really enjoying the wine.
 
originally posted by Cliff:
Brad, was yours the consensus opinion on the Bouchard? Sorry to hear it's still dominated by all that wood.
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The wine was enjoyable but the wood was certainly apparent. I'm not convinced that it is dying, I can't predict what Burgundy does with wood (see Roty). Especially given that it's only 11 years old.
 
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I remember you raving about the 1997 on release (god that was a long time ago - my memory might conceivably be faulty) though you did prefer the 1995.
Click to expand...

I think you're confusing it with the '96 Baumard Clos Papillon, which was stunning on release and for the next few years before they became premoxed. So, to answer Howard, yes, I've experienced a lot of premox issues with Baumard Savennieres, mostly with the '96 Clos Papillon, to a lesser extent with the '95 Papillon and Trie Special and to an even lesser extent the '97s. The '97 Trie Speciale showed some oxidation, which I forgot to mention, but it's of the typical sort that one usually finds in Savennieres. I didn't find this bottle advanced at all. Just overly alcoholic.
Click to expand...

I drank quite a few bottles of the '96 and, while it's true they appeared pre-moxed early, they came through the other side in an extremely interesting incarnation: oxidative, yes, but still fresh, sharp and very much alive. Among the most interesting of my (limited) wine experiences to date. Polished off the last one a year or two ago, and it was extremely fine.

A characteristic of truly pre-moxed wine, in my experience, is that it is dead and lifeless. The '96 Baumard Clos du Papillon, by contrast, was practically sizzling with vitality at 10+ years, while also giving ample sherry-like notes. So I surmise that some other chemistry is at work here. Fwiw.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
originally posted by Brad Kane:
originally posted by Jay Miller:
I remember you raving about the 1997 on release (god that was a long time ago - my memory might conceivably be faulty) though you did prefer the 1995.
Click to expand...

I think you're confusing it with the '96 Baumard Clos Papillon, which was stunning on release and for the next few years before they became premoxed. So, to answer Howard, yes, I've experienced a lot of premox issues with Baumard Savennieres, mostly with the '96 Clos Papillon, to a lesser extent with the '95 Papillon and Trie Special and to an even lesser extent the '97s. The '97 Trie Speciale showed some oxidation, which I forgot to mention, but it's of the typical sort that one usually finds in Savennieres. I didn't find this bottle advanced at all. Just overly alcoholic.
Click to expand...

I drank quite a few bottles of the '96 and, while it's true they appeared pre-moxed early, they came through the other side in an extremely interesting incarnation: oxidative, yes, but still fresh, sharp and very much alive. Among the most interesting of my (limited) wine experiences to date. Polished off the last one a year or two ago, and it was extremely fine.

A characteristic of truly pre-moxed wine, in my experience, is that it is dead and lifeless. The '96 Baumard Clos du Papillon, by contrast, was practically sizzling with vitality at 10+ years, while also giving ample sherry-like notes. So I surmise that some other chemistry is at work here. Fwiw.
Click to expand...

I think we have different criteria for what premoxed is. A wine that shows overwhelming oxidative flavor and aroma profiles when previous history with the producer/wine suggests a longer aging curve, is premoxed, imo. I've personally had much older bottles of Clos Papillon that have shown much fresher fruit and were not burdened down by roasted nut and apple juice flavors and aromas that the wine started to show at around age eight. I don't find the structure to be much of an issue because, imo, in all the premoxed wines we generally talk about, Trimbach, Baumaurd, White Burgs, the acidity is still present.
 
originally posted by Jay Miller:

The Amiot and the Zilliken both showed wonderfully though the Rossignol wasn't too far behind.
Click to expand...

Jay, I think you've got a thing for Volnay.
 
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