Old school flava

John McIlwain

John McIlwain
Already posted this to Twitter, but what would you pair with old school veal Saltimbocca (including hard-boiled egg)? Mr. Dalton suggested Chianti Classico so I'll bring Montevertine '04. Mike Madrigale of Bar Boulud suggested Savignin, I'll bring along Puffeney cuvée Sacha '07 as well.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
 
montevertine '04 will be like drinking some red wine with your meal. you like red wine? you like food? sure. only you mentioned the egg; and i can only shrug.

savignin isn't bad, but for these purposes, puffeney cuvée sacha '07 is. it hits all the right notes in the wrong order. you need a core of fruit that it lacks, and more finesse where the back end is too loud. pass. as you should have done in teh first place.

neither recco is wrong. they just need more detail. given the shit you are eating, you want a wine that has dense, slightly oxidative fruit that is well integrated with fresh, skippy acidity in the mouth and teh back end (aka you shouldn't look to match food like this, only accompany it appropriately).

so, while i can think of montevertine and savignins that would work, if you don't have anything in the right idiom, think laterally in the same vein: slutty yet fresh older bordeaux or similar; and lighter, oxidative old white burgundies from places like st aubin, marsannay, chablis, etc..

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Would his Corpulence consider something in a Clos Berthet Blanc to be within his sink's margin of error given the circumstances?

I am merely bringing along wines for folks who are nostalgic for (pastured) warhorses of the vernacular Italian-American cuisine. In addition to the egg, there are Fontina, sauce Espagnole, prosciutto, sage leaves, spinach-a veritable Harry Partch symphony of flavors.
 
older clos berthet in the right idiom would be perfect.

you could always decant it into one of those old basket woven bottles to boost the nostalgia if needs be.

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We'll be trying seven or eight wines with this meal. I believe the fiasco is inherent to the endeavor. Clos Berthet Blanc will be brought along per the adipose gentleman's suggestion.
 
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