Jeff Grossman
Jeff Grossman
attendees: Jeff & Dena, Jay & Arnold, Don, Brad, Jeff
We are deep in Chinatown. At Fuleen they have quite a lot of the menu still 'on the fin' in tanks lining the front and sides of the downstairs. It may or may not be good but it will be fresh!
And, indeed, the food was hit and miss. The best dish was razor clams with black bean sauce; so good we ordered a third plate. Also good was lobster with ginger, the deep-fried riblets, and the roast squab (though Jay thought the little birds were salty). We did not care for the dried-out fried squid, the bland fried rice dish, and anything else I've forgotten... 'nuff said.
Jeff & Dena are Loire and Alsace lovers from way back. They are in town occasionally for family but had a little extra time for wine on this trip.
Taille Aux Loups (Jacky Blot) NV Montlouis Petillant "Triple Zero" - chalky, peachy, long finish, absolutely dry, a bit tame in this company.
Foreau 2002 Vouvray Brut - richer, slightly musky, very bubbly after the petillant, "gingery" -Brad.
Luneau-Papin 2002 Muscadet "Le L d'Or" - initially very tight and ungiving, still shows tremendous purity and minerality; later, it reveals a bit more of a green grape or underripe apricot fruit and even more minerals and saline.
Huet 1995 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos de Bourg" - rich, tangy, marvy, better than its brother from 1996.
Foreau 1995 Vouvray Demi-Sec - fuller than the Huet, a repeat of the ginger note, even a tad riper then the Huet and a bit more fun to drink.
Huet 1996 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos de Bourg" - definitely from a warmer year than the 1995, sweeter, more glyceral, maybe even a touch advanced?
Donnhoff 2001 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Rielsing Spatlese Auction - 7 753 010 11 02, pretty!, and creamy, and a lot less sweet than the wines so far.
Willi Schaefer 1990 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #5 - 2 583 154 05 91, omg, incredible zip and balance, clean, even a bit of lychee.
Zind-Humbrecht 1990 Gewurztraminer Goldert VT - ignore that previous comment... This is lychee! Not all that sweet, really, for a VT, there is a lingering hint of bitterness at the back.
Huet 1959 Vouvray Moelleux "Le Haut Lieu" - the color of new wine, amazing; full, youthful, bright, a tad cheese-y.
Huet 1989 Vouvray "Le Mont" "Debut Presse" - lightly corked; but even the TCA is almost overwhelmed by the force of the wine, shows a bit raisiny, "passerillage is obvious" -Don.
Foreau 1990 Vouvray "Goutte d'Or" - medium to dark brown, this wine is darker than either the '89 or the '59, very sweet but with good acidity so it does not come off as sugary or candied, omg wine.
All whites. All beautiful, really.
And one excellent photo, taken by Don Rice, of the '59, '89, and '90:
We are deep in Chinatown. At Fuleen they have quite a lot of the menu still 'on the fin' in tanks lining the front and sides of the downstairs. It may or may not be good but it will be fresh!
And, indeed, the food was hit and miss. The best dish was razor clams with black bean sauce; so good we ordered a third plate. Also good was lobster with ginger, the deep-fried riblets, and the roast squab (though Jay thought the little birds were salty). We did not care for the dried-out fried squid, the bland fried rice dish, and anything else I've forgotten... 'nuff said.
Jeff & Dena are Loire and Alsace lovers from way back. They are in town occasionally for family but had a little extra time for wine on this trip.
Taille Aux Loups (Jacky Blot) NV Montlouis Petillant "Triple Zero" - chalky, peachy, long finish, absolutely dry, a bit tame in this company.
Foreau 2002 Vouvray Brut - richer, slightly musky, very bubbly after the petillant, "gingery" -Brad.
Luneau-Papin 2002 Muscadet "Le L d'Or" - initially very tight and ungiving, still shows tremendous purity and minerality; later, it reveals a bit more of a green grape or underripe apricot fruit and even more minerals and saline.
Huet 1995 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos de Bourg" - rich, tangy, marvy, better than its brother from 1996.
Foreau 1995 Vouvray Demi-Sec - fuller than the Huet, a repeat of the ginger note, even a tad riper then the Huet and a bit more fun to drink.
Huet 1996 Vouvray Demi-Sec "Clos de Bourg" - definitely from a warmer year than the 1995, sweeter, more glyceral, maybe even a touch advanced?
Donnhoff 2001 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Rielsing Spatlese Auction - 7 753 010 11 02, pretty!, and creamy, and a lot less sweet than the wines so far.
Willi Schaefer 1990 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese #5 - 2 583 154 05 91, omg, incredible zip and balance, clean, even a bit of lychee.
Zind-Humbrecht 1990 Gewurztraminer Goldert VT - ignore that previous comment... This is lychee! Not all that sweet, really, for a VT, there is a lingering hint of bitterness at the back.
Huet 1959 Vouvray Moelleux "Le Haut Lieu" - the color of new wine, amazing; full, youthful, bright, a tad cheese-y.
Huet 1989 Vouvray "Le Mont" "Debut Presse" - lightly corked; but even the TCA is almost overwhelmed by the force of the wine, shows a bit raisiny, "passerillage is obvious" -Don.
Foreau 1990 Vouvray "Goutte d'Or" - medium to dark brown, this wine is darker than either the '89 or the '59, very sweet but with good acidity so it does not come off as sugary or candied, omg wine.
All whites. All beautiful, really.
And one excellent photo, taken by Don Rice, of the '59, '89, and '90: