Beaujolais visit part 6: Tête & Lapierre

Saina Nieminen

Saina Nieminen
Tête was a winery I have only had one wine from before so it was exciting to visit them and try more. Unfortunately here I would have needed more French. But we got on somehow: I spoke superbad French, Michel and his wife spoke much better English.

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Michel Tête / Domaine du Clos du Fief
Juliénas 2012 a very pretty wine, lean fruit, racy structure and very refreshing.

St. Amour Les Capitans 2012 really nice wine, perfumed, relatively light, well structured but not harsh at all, very refreshing. Very attractive.

Juliénas Cuvée Prestige 2011 a sweet, very ripe wine; plenty of tannins, much fruit, but also good acidity. Hold and it will probably become something very nice.

Juliénas Cuvée Prestige 2006 this was a nice treat: mature, and magnificently perfumed; soft palate initially, yet then it becomes quite firm on the finish. Refreshing. Great stuff.

St. Amour L'Exception 2009 a freak year; and a freakish wine. All other Têtes were wonderfully refreshing but this one was heavy and ponderous and the only one of their wines that I didn't want to drink huge amounts of.

From what I understood, they don't use only autochthonous yeasts, but instead use a starter yeast of neutral aromas. Other than that they seem to be “natural” if I understood their French.

Mathieu Lapierre

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On our last day we had a quick tasting at Lapierre. Mathieu has made wines since 2004 with Marcel and continues to make wine in that style. Mathieu had opened numerous bottles the previous day, so we got to try an exceptionally large amount of bottles both sulfured and non-sulfured.

2012 here the sulfur wasn't noticeable and both cuvées were attractive; both were in a leaner style as expected of the year.

2011 a much richer year and the non-sulfured cuvée was very fresh and vivid but the sulfured was only very nice and felt a bit tight.

2010 here I didn't see much difference between the sulfured and non-sulfured cuvées: both were bright and refreshing and savoury.

2009 I must confess that though I usually like Lapierre, this vintage seemed a bit too raisiny and hot year in style for me.

2008 sulfur isn't always bad. In this vintage I thought the sulfured cuvée was much more fresh and lively than the non-sulfured one.

Cuvée Marcel Lapierre 2011 a huge, massive, sweet and concentrated wine; yet with an amazing level of freshness and liveliness, too!

Cuvée Marcel Lapierre 2009 raisiny. And I don't like that. As in almost all wines on this trip, I preferred the “basic” wines to the fancy cuvées.

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And that's it! No more Beaujolais posts from me in the near future (was that a huge sigh of relief I heard? :D )
 
Otto: As others have written already, really a stellar report, taken together, and thoroughly juicy reading for those interested in the subejct; thanks very much.

What's your overall impression of 2011 in the region? Curious. I've liked them.
 
originally posted by Ian Fitzsimmons:
Otto: As others have written already, really a stellar report, taken together, and thoroughly juicy reading for those interested in the subejct; thanks very much.

What's your overall impression of 2011 in the region? Curious. I've liked them.

Thanks Ian (and everyone else) for reading!

I quite liked the 2011s but right now they seem so full of everything: not only fruit, but acidity and tannin, too, that I think these might need a year or two more age than usual. I did prefer the crunchy style of 2010; but I didn't find 2011 over the top.
 
A good event to taste up-and-coming Beaujolais producers is called La Beaujoloise. Held every year around early April, one day only. For the past few years it has been located at the Chateau des Ravatys in northern Beaujolais.

All the big guys in the natural wine movement exhibit there: Foillard, Brun, Lapierre etc. The young turks are there too in numbers. I discovered Julien Sunier this year and Christophe Pacalet a couple of years ago.

 
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